Winter Care/Maintenance
Winter Care/Maintenance
I have decided that I will be garaging my truck for the winter in order to help preserve it and protect it from the salt that is used on the roads here in northwestern PA. I have read various articles that give you suggestions on how to keep the truck in good mechanical condition, things to do, etc. However, I wasn't totally buying into everything I was reading. I will have the truck started as frequently as necessary. So here I am, looking to get some insight from you guys. What are some things that I can do in order to keep my truck in great shape mechanically and cosmetically as it sits over winter?
Fully detail it before putting it away. Change the oil, fill the gas tank, and add fuel stabilizer. Park it with the tires on scrap carpet squares. Put a battery tender on it. If you aren't going to be taking it out and actually DRIVING it periodically, don't bother starting it.
Fully detail it before putting it away. Change the oil, fill the gas tank, and add fuel stabilizer. Park it with the tires on scrap carpet squares. Put a battery tender on it. If you aren't going to be taking it out and actually DRIVING it periodically, don't bother starting it.
I have decided that I will be garaging my truck for the winter in order to help preserve it and protect it from the salt that is used on the roads here in northwestern PA. I have read various articles that give you suggestions on how to keep the truck in good mechanical condition, things to do, etc. However, I wasn't totally buying into everything I was reading. I will have the truck started as frequently as necessary. So here I am, looking to get some insight from you guys. What are some things that I can do in order to keep my truck in great shape mechanically and cosmetically as it sits over winter?
1. Once parked, don't drive it.....periodic operation can induce more problems than if you let-it-be in most cases.
2. Wash, wax it, completely clean the interior and place an open box on a tray on the floor of baking soda.....it will help absorb moisture
3. Tires.....today's tires will not get flat spots like those built befor 2000......overfill them by 10 psi and this will help to ensure roundness.....if you want to fill them with nitrogen, this is ok as well because it is not prone to temp changes, precludes moisture formation & dosen't leak (larger molecules). If exposed to sun, place large trashbags (contractor type) over them to protect against UV light.
4. Fuel- add fuel stabilizer (I like Marvel Mystery Oil) and fill tank to the top......fuel will begin to "turn" to a varnish like substance beginning at 6 months, with enough fuel stabilizer, this will prevent that. Filling to the top will eliminate as much air in the tank as possible which is a requirement for condensation & "turning" of the gasoline...this helps to stop it. I personally don't like to drain a system because especially using the MMO, it lubricates the "moving parts", which although it still sometimes happens, will help prevent hardening of o-rings, gaskets, injectors, etc.
5. ensure all fluids are topped off, lube/grease everything including graphite in all locks, dry lube in the window seals, etc. Don't bother changing fluids, etc...you will want to do this befor you fire it up upon your return. I would recommend purchasing a radiator anode (zinc) from JC Whitney...they sell for about $10, place it in the radiator overflow...it will act as a sacrificial lamb for the entire cooling system- keeping it corrosion free.
6. Pull the battery.....on a short term, disconnecting the terminals is ok, long term, pull it just in case....especially with temp changes, although very rare, a crack in a battery case undetected can do a lot of damage.
7. Place a plastic bag over the end of the air intake tube or filter...this will help keep bugs/dirt out.
8. If there is a potential for rodents, place a few moth ***** in the engine compartment.....if the storage facility has cats, forget it...the cats will do the work.
When its time to start it for the 1st time, check all the fluids, change the oil (this will provide some lube from the top down in the engine) spin the engine over for 30 seconds...it may or may not start- its ok....wait 1 minute, repeat......the 1 minute is a good cool down for the starter and the 30 second duration will not overly stress any component. By the 2nd or 3rd round, it should start...probably run a little rough, but it will be ok. After 50 miles of driving time, drain all the fluids & replace (coolant may be ok), but definitely engine, tranny, power steering, brake.
I've been wanting to do this with my truck also. I spray about 4 gallons of bar and chain oil everywhere underneath including inside the frame and in all the body panels to help prevent the rust but by the end of winter it's pretty much gone off the frame.
Where about in NW PA are you? Did you rent a space to keep it in or do you have your own garage to store it?
Where about in NW PA are you? Did you rent a space to keep it in or do you have your own garage to store it?
This is all environment & storage duration dependent, but this is what our family has done with any vehicles we have stored for the past 50 years....
1. Once parked, don't drive it.....periodic operation can induce more problems than if you let-it-be in most cases.
2. Wash, wax it, completely clean the interior and place an open box on a tray on the floor of baking soda.....it will help absorb moisture
3. Tires.....today's tires will not get flat spots like those built befor 2000......overfill them by 10 psi and this will help to ensure roundness.....if you want to fill them with nitrogen, this is ok as well because it is not prone to temp changes, precludes moisture formation & dosen't leak (larger molecules). If exposed to sun, place large trashbags (contractor type) over them to protect against UV light.
4. Fuel- add fuel stabilizer (I like Marvel Mystery Oil) and fill tank to the top......fuel will begin to "turn" to a varnish like substance beginning at 6 months, with enough fuel stabilizer, this will prevent that. Filling to the top will eliminate as much air in the tank as possible which is a requirement for condensation & "turning" of the gasoline...this helps to stop it. I personally don't like to drain a system because especially using the MMO, it lubricates the "moving parts", which although it still sometimes happens, will help prevent hardening of o-rings, gaskets, injectors, etc.
5. ensure all fluids are topped off, lube/grease everything including graphite in all locks, dry lube in the window seals, etc. Don't bother changing fluids, etc...you will want to do this befor you fire it up upon your return. I would recommend purchasing a radiator anode (zinc) from JC Whitney...they sell for about $10, place it in the radiator overflow...it will act as a sacrificial lamb for the entire cooling system- keeping it corrosion free.
6. Pull the battery.....on a short term, disconnecting the terminals is ok, long term, pull it just in case....especially with temp changes, although very rare, a crack in a battery case undetected can do a lot of damage.
7. Place a plastic bag over the end of the air intake tube or filter...this will help keep bugs/dirt out.
8. If there is a potential for rodents, place a few moth ***** in the engine compartment.....if the storage facility has cats, forget it...the cats will do the work.
When its time to start it for the 1st time, check all the fluids, change the oil (this will provide some lube from the top down in the engine) spin the engine over for 30 seconds...it may or may not start- its ok....wait 1 minute, repeat......the 1 minute is a good cool down for the starter and the 30 second duration will not overly stress any component. By the 2nd or 3rd round, it should start...probably run a little rough, but it will be ok. After 50 miles of driving time, drain all the fluids & replace (coolant may be ok), but definitely engine, tranny, power steering, brake.
1. Once parked, don't drive it.....periodic operation can induce more problems than if you let-it-be in most cases.
2. Wash, wax it, completely clean the interior and place an open box on a tray on the floor of baking soda.....it will help absorb moisture
3. Tires.....today's tires will not get flat spots like those built befor 2000......overfill them by 10 psi and this will help to ensure roundness.....if you want to fill them with nitrogen, this is ok as well because it is not prone to temp changes, precludes moisture formation & dosen't leak (larger molecules). If exposed to sun, place large trashbags (contractor type) over them to protect against UV light.
4. Fuel- add fuel stabilizer (I like Marvel Mystery Oil) and fill tank to the top......fuel will begin to "turn" to a varnish like substance beginning at 6 months, with enough fuel stabilizer, this will prevent that. Filling to the top will eliminate as much air in the tank as possible which is a requirement for condensation & "turning" of the gasoline...this helps to stop it. I personally don't like to drain a system because especially using the MMO, it lubricates the "moving parts", which although it still sometimes happens, will help prevent hardening of o-rings, gaskets, injectors, etc.
5. ensure all fluids are topped off, lube/grease everything including graphite in all locks, dry lube in the window seals, etc. Don't bother changing fluids, etc...you will want to do this befor you fire it up upon your return. I would recommend purchasing a radiator anode (zinc) from JC Whitney...they sell for about $10, place it in the radiator overflow...it will act as a sacrificial lamb for the entire cooling system- keeping it corrosion free.
6. Pull the battery.....on a short term, disconnecting the terminals is ok, long term, pull it just in case....especially with temp changes, although very rare, a crack in a battery case undetected can do a lot of damage.
7. Place a plastic bag over the end of the air intake tube or filter...this will help keep bugs/dirt out.
8. If there is a potential for rodents, place a few moth ***** in the engine compartment.....if the storage facility has cats, forget it...the cats will do the work.
When its time to start it for the 1st time, check all the fluids, change the oil (this will provide some lube from the top down in the engine) spin the engine over for 30 seconds...it may or may not start- its ok....wait 1 minute, repeat......the 1 minute is a good cool down for the starter and the 30 second duration will not overly stress any component. By the 2nd or 3rd round, it should start...probably run a little rough, but it will be ok. After 50 miles of driving time, drain all the fluids & replace (coolant may be ok), but definitely engine, tranny, power steering, brake.
I've been wanting to do this with my truck also. I spray about 4 gallons of bar and chain oil everywhere underneath including inside the frame and in all the body panels to help prevent the rust but by the end of winter it's pretty much gone off the frame.
Where about in NW PA are you? Did you rent a space to keep it in or do you have your own garage to store it?
Where about in NW PA are you? Did you rent a space to keep it in or do you have your own garage to store it?
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No need to rub it in! haha
heres a thread i started on this very topic.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...-planning.html
ive also decided im going to take the belts off too.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...-planning.html
ive also decided im going to take the belts off too.
heres a thread i started on this very topic.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...-planning.html
ive also decided im going to take the belts off too.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...-planning.html
ive also decided im going to take the belts off too.









