how to remove overspray

Old Mar 8, 2012 | 06:22 PM
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flflatrate's Avatar
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how to remove overspray

I bought a 2011 xlt and I guess didn't look at it close enough. I just found some spots where it was repainted and they didn't tape it off to well and got overspray on other spots of the truck. What's the best way to remove the overspray? I guess start with wet sanding? What grit? Anyone know a good process to do? Thanks in advance
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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No expert here, but I know a clay bar kit has the ability to take it off, and typically pretty user friendly and safe. Then throw some wax on it.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:29 AM
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Try a clay bar first. If that doesn't work, I'd recommend you take it to a good body shop and have them wetsand it and buff it out. Then clay the whole truck and wax it.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 10:28 AM
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We have used Oops graffiti remover, but that was right after one of our work trucks came back from the body shop. Might be worth a shot.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 06:55 AM
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Had neighbor spray stain his wooden fence, got overspray all over my truck. I used mineral spirits & a cloth to scrub out every inch of the truck, then washed it & waxed it.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 09:31 AM
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IMHO I would start with least aggressive method first. It's a new truck and the paint is precious.

From the suggestions above I'd do Mineral Spirits first then if that does not remove it use a clay bar etc.

Thing I'd try...in order of aggressiveness.

First, I'd wash the paint with dawn soap. It is very alkali and will remove any wax or sealant on your paint.
Hopefully, it will also remove any over spray. You will need to reapply a wax/sealant after doing a Dawn wash.

Second, Clay Magic comes in a medium and fine grade. If you can, I would purchase both types/grades.
If the over spray comes off with the fine grade then you should be able to just apply a coat of wax/sealant
If it does not come off with the fine grade then I would suggest trying the medium grade clay to remove it.

Third, I would suggest getting you paint "polished". Again starting with the least aggressive method first.
I have found I have been able to remove a few different types of over spray with a PC, Megs D300 & MF disc.
This method and the medium clay will leave a bit of a haze in your paint that will need a finer polishing afterwards.

Forth, If any of the above methods can not remove it then it may be time to "step up" polishing the paint with a rotary.
I might suggest (starting out fairly aggressive) using a Lake Country Kompressor purple pad with Megs M105 Compound.
If that does not remove the over spray then I'd suggest using a wool pad with a rotary on a test spot to see if that works.
The rotary buffer method should ONLY be done by a professional that has experience and skill using a rotary buffer.

Last option, IMHO would be to take it to a body shop and have them wet sand it. The clear coat is VERY thin on OEM paint.
The paint is thicker on done-by-hand repainted areas than the (every drop costs money) production line automated robots.

So unless you can remove it with some of the less aggressive methods I'd suggest you find a skilled detailer in your area.
This does not mean take it to your local "Tunnel-O'-Swirls" car wash and have your paint attacked by a Bozo with a buffer.
I have watched a few local car wash places use a "high speed" buffer and leave the paint completely covered in holograms.
The really sad part is that...when they are done they actually believe they have done a great job polishing your paint!

Try mineral spirits and clay bars yourself. If that does not work...do the research, find a reputable, skilled detailer in your area.
Have them "do a test spot" to find the "least aggressive method" to remove the over spray & preserve your precious clear coat.

Please let us know your results.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 11:15 AM
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Merlin nailed it right on the head - as usual. I might ask a clarfying question though. What kind of "overspray" are you talking about. The kind that most folks have assumed you have is what I would call "particulate" overspray. That's where individual droplets of paint have landed on wide areas of the vehicle. If that's what you've got, then what Merlin recommends is spot on.

There's another kind of overspray though. That's where somebody messed up while masking and you actually have areas painted that were not supposed to be painted. Instead of individual droplets, you've got partially painted areas - possibly even with multiple coats of primer, basecoat and clearcoat. This one's a whole different deal and truly requires professional help. Clay won't even touch it and even wet sanding might be problematic.

Which one do you have?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 2stroked
There's another kind of overspray though. That's where somebody messed up while masking and you actually have areas painted that were not supposed to be painted. Instead of individual droplets, you've got partially painted areas - possibly even with multiple coats of primer, basecoat and clearcoat. This one's a whole different deal and truly requires professional help. Clay won't even touch it and even wet sanding might be problematic.

Which one do you have?


It's hard to tell without looking at the vehicle.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 02:27 AM
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Excelent response Merlin, thanks for the additional info. You can teach an old dog new tricks! Good point 2stroked!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 03:07 PM
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did paint work for 15 years good suggestions above and a good detailer would be your best bet
 
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 07:02 PM
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If the mineral spririts doesn't work, 3M makes an adhesive remover, it is worked very good for me removing baked on sap, overspray, etc (when everything else has failed)
 
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by beechkid
I highly recommend the use of a clay bar.
nice.
 
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