alright i'll just wax after i get done claying which will save me some time. will the dawn dish soap and just a regular car wash sponge work for prepping before clay?

the reason i ask about the wheels is because even when there spotless and shining like no other, they do not feel very smooth.

 

i'm not trying to do any kind of paint correction, my hand cramps up and i don't like spending all day waxing a vehicle by hand so i got the buffer and it works great, cuts my time well over half. i haven't read the detailing sticky but i've read the meguiars directions and i've been using their products for probably 15 years. I have a truck, not a show car i use the buffer to apply and remove from all the big areas and all the areas next to plastic and hard to reach areas i use the microfiber applicator and microfiber towel for application and removal. i use brand new pads and cloths everytime i wax with the buffer. BTW, i have had success "buffing" out dull areas that had minor scratching and it looks like the dull scratches were never there. it has all the oomph i really need it for. if i get an area that i cannot fix with what i have, i would take it to a professional...i know my limitations

 

Daniel, you are reading a bit too much into it. Just wash the truck with something before you clay it and you don't even need to dry it. I don't recommend sponges, I recommend microfiber or lambswool mitts and a "2 bucket" method with grit guards. Have YOU read the detailing sticky yet?

Exactly what type of finish is on your wheels? Chrome, clearcoated something, or polished aluminum?

 

im sorry about that i just want it done it right the first time :o

my wheels are chrome. i just use eagle one wipe and shine on them just like i do on my truck to make it shine. lol im not a professional by any means and it makes them shine so i use it..

 

If they are uncoated chrome, just use chrome polish and a synthetic wax on them.

 

I use Collinite #850 Metal Wax on my wheels after I clean them. Really makes them shine and are as smooth as glass once the wax is buffed off. It also leaves a nice layer of protection which is the main reason I use it.

 

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals.

if you would like a copy of these, pm me.

 

It isn't even worth commenting on anymore. You tell someone claying is bad for their paint, then in another thread tell someone to take touch up paint to the side of their truck to fix some tress scratches sight unseen.

Everyone has their own opinions, but as a general rule, some of the best detailing advice I could give would be just to ignore your advice.

 

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals. If you would like a copy of these directives, pm me.

 

Attend an ICAR certified paint course...these are standard procedures taught to all ICAR certified painters- if done with a lot of patience, the techniques will work and create an almost invisable appearance (I say almost because the person who does the work will always be able to point the area, but 90%+ of the people will not be able to see it). The RP indicated the scratches at some areas were deep enough to feel with their nail, given the minimum 3mil clear coat thickness requirement, to attempt to polish the paint to down to the scratch level would definitely reduce the paints longitivity and shine to a fraction of that it should be. If you have the time/patient, this will work, if not, then the panel should be repaint (which is what most bodyshops would do)

 

how did this go from clay bar questions to wet sanding and repainting? im sure if clay bar didnt work all the people that say they loved the results, would have said its not worth the time. i just want a cleaner more contaminant free finish which clay bar should take care of. but as Gipraw said, everyone has there opinions. everybody has different problems and want to achieve different results. i know for a fact im not going to wet said my truck! lol

 

heck yeah. im going to look into getting some. i just know there not as "clean" as they could be. thanks for the advice

 

Don't pay any attention to Beechkid he does this in every thread about clay bars.

 

could i clay bar, scratch-x, then wax?

 

ok cool. lol i was like whaaaaaaa??