Hate to change your oil, SynLube it!!!

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Old Aug 31, 2000 | 04:57 AM
  #1  
The White Monkey's Avatar
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Lightbulb Hate to change your oil, SynLube it!!!

I am not a salesman. I make no profit from Synlube sales. I'm just a loyal customer of theirs, who has had the product in 4 of my engines now.

There main claim to fame is their 100,000/150,000 mi. engine lube (100% synthetic) (used in the original lunar rover) (space age is an understatement)

You use a fiberglass oil filter, which is changed every 30,000 miles.

They also make gear oil, AFT, brake fluid and even coolant.

I've done the engine in my 97f150SC4.6 at 60K (just bought it used) and drained and added 4 quarts to my Auto trans.

My next move with Synlube will be the differential oil on the 3:55's, of the 2 types, (mileage or extended towing capabilities) I'll prolly choose the mileage one. Until I buy toys.

Synlubes' client list includes, NJ Transportation Authority, Sparklets Water, etc... These are folks that demand mileage and balance spreadsheets by it.

Additionally, The coolant product is all about going in my 66 Bronco and 97 150 (Bronco currently suffering from too much cam). Ford apparently uses some really crappy #ss coolant from the factory.

I know I must sound like a nut here. But this is for real. For what it's worth. Check out the site. Contact the owner. This stuff will keep our overpriced "commercial" vehicles running a very long time. And that's agood thing.

I know very little about physics, but the guy who makes this stuff can answer just about any propeller head question you can come up with.


It's basically a moly-graphite blend with small amounts of teflon for good measure.
www.synlube.com

or

1-800-synlube

Thx, Duncan "The White Monkey"

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97 Super Cab
 
Old Aug 31, 2000 | 02:38 PM
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Hmmmmmmmm....

http://www.synlube.com/prod01.htm

Do NOT USE this product in:

New OEM factory build engines
New vehicles

...And some other company with what looks exactly like the same product:
http://www.synthashield.net/

Duralube had the same warnings for their snake oil. It sort of forces the assumption that 'Gee, this stuff must really stop wear if it shouldn't be used on non-broken-in engines.' If it's been out for so long, how many other people have heard of it before?

[This message has been edited by michael_hovis (edited 08-31-2000).]

[This message has been edited by michael_hovis (edited 08-31-2000).]
 
Old Aug 31, 2000 | 06:30 PM
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I 'dunno' about this stuff.....I've never heard of it until now. Interesting info on their web site..almost sounds like slick 50.

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, LEV, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil and filter, Build date 7/00



[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 08-31-2000).]
 
Old Aug 31, 2000 | 06:49 PM
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Yup!!

SynthaShield is the same exact stuff.

It should be safe to install on a factory motor after about 12-24k mi.

Depends on when you feel the rings are set.

[This message has been edited by The White Monkey (edited 08-31-2000).]
 
Old Sep 1, 2000 | 12:21 AM
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... I sense an msparks post coming up.
 
Old Sep 9, 2000 | 06:11 PM
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Thumbs down

I hate sites with midi
 
Old Sep 12, 2000 | 10:53 AM
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The "original lunar rover" probably crashed and burned during trials at the kennedy space center.

An updated lunar rover, in a primo parking spot on the moon, is awaiting its first oil change after 30 years and traveling a million miles. Great oil!
 
Old Sep 14, 2000 | 04:35 AM
  #8  
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Thumbs up

Just installed the differential oil in my 97F150. Although the factory differential lube IS comprised of synthetics, mine had 62k mi. and had been run a quart low.

Wow, this was the best seat of the pant difference I've felt. The truck felt free and much quicker. The difference felt like the e-brake was stuck on before and now it wasn't.

I used the mileage grade. They also make a towing grade.

Well, this stuff is definatley the real deal.



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97 Super Cab
 
Old Sep 14, 2000 | 09:59 AM
  #9  
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Wink

If you believe changing your gear oil has increased your HP and Torque...I have some ocean front property in Rhode Island I'd like to sell you.

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The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau, Profile Windstream Side Deflectors and Lund X-Terminator Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page
 
Old Sep 15, 2000 | 01:12 AM
  #10  
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Exclamation

Listen, I'm an adult owner of a really nicely designed pickup truck. All of you young guns with fast wits might want to considering opening your ears once in a while and learning something.

I don't pretend to know much about anything.
I can only report my own experiences. Dont act like a bunch of old maids on here, refusing to think or being mentally stuck in the mud.

Triton46: Why dont you take a ride down to that beach front property in Rhode Island and take a cup of that pretty sand and run that in your differential. It's not hurting me any have an extra 17hp in mine.

There seems to be lots of fellows on here with Chevy mentalities driving Fords.

 
Old Sep 15, 2000 | 02:32 PM
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You actually gained 17hp by changing the oil in the rear end? I never would have thought it was under that much friction.
 
Old Sep 15, 2000 | 03:01 PM
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Well let's see. 1HP = 746 Watts.

17HP = 11,190 Watts.

Let's simplify the differential to a 9.75" diameter sphere. The surface area is:

4piR^2 = 4(3.14)(4.875)^2 = 298.6 in^2.

To prevent the differential from getting too hot, it will have to reach a maximum temp and then dissipate all the rest of the generated heat from the friction.

So, if White Monkey is correct, then each suare inch of the diff would dissipate 37 watts less than with the normal fluid.

Let's just do this really simply. Measure the temp of the diff before and after the fluid change. In each case, the temp would have to be taken after an identical drive when the outside temperature and humidity is the same. If the diff is one hell of alot cooler, then the stuff definitely works.
 
Old Sep 15, 2000 | 04:02 PM
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Hey, why d'ya have to go and bring Rhode Island into it. There's plenty of ocean front property here. I own some.
 
Old Sep 15, 2000 | 04:07 PM
  #14  
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Ha Ha. That comment made me wonder too. I had to find a map 'cause I was pretty sure RI was on the coast!
Geez, michael_hovis, all that eng. stuff reminded me of school and about made me sick
 
Old Sep 15, 2000 | 04:24 PM
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LOL!

I meant to say Texas...?

I guess you can get 17 more HP.


I was thinking of that country song, Ocean Front Property (in Arizona).

------------------

The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau, Profile Windstream Side Deflectors and Lund X-Terminator Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page

 



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