Hate to change your oil, SynLube it!!!
If ya don't use it, ya lose it! I can only remember the simple things, for the rest, I have to search the web.
I think 17 H.P. is a lot of heat, and I can't imagine another lube is THAT much better than the stock stuff.
Redline claims 50 degrees cooler for the break-in of a new diff. I'm not really in the mood to re-learn thermodyamics to figure out the heat transfer difference, so who knows?
White Monkey- do you have the L.S. diff? Did you remember to add the friction modifier? BTW, How could your diff oil be a quart low?
[This message has been edited by michael_hovis (edited 09-15-2000).]
I think 17 H.P. is a lot of heat, and I can't imagine another lube is THAT much better than the stock stuff.
Redline claims 50 degrees cooler for the break-in of a new diff. I'm not really in the mood to re-learn thermodyamics to figure out the heat transfer difference, so who knows?
White Monkey- do you have the L.S. diff? Did you remember to add the friction modifier? BTW, How could your diff oil be a quart low?
[This message has been edited by michael_hovis (edited 09-15-2000).]
I have a 3:55 limited slip diff., yes.
The old fluid in there was tired, it had about 60k mi. on it. Possibly not filled properly at the factory?? I don't realy know how that stuff would just evaporate. The Synlube guy is sending a sample of the old diff fluids out to get analized.
Anyways, it was a quart low. I topped off with standard gear oil to determine if the seals had been leaking, wasn't sure. They weren't. So the "good stuff" went in. The magnetic fill plug was just about full of the metal shavings so I feel better now that all that crud is outta there.
I didn't add any friction modifier. But wouldn't be opposed to the idea. Who makes it and where can I buy some?
Oh, the 17hp thing is base on NJ taxi-cabs w/ the same engine/trainy set-up. So, I can't be sure of the number in an absolute way. I know this, It really flew after that stuff went in. However, once I've been stuck in stop and go traffic for about an hour in the desert the performance gains are gone. Exactly what Michael_Hovis said about heat and power.
Of course I think alot of that power loss was the transmission heating up. I started doing the "WHRRRR" in 1st thing.
Might be time for the B&M shift plus and a auxilary fan for the trans cooler.
BTW, if a sunami hits Malibu, I already own beach front property.
------------------
97 XLT SC w/62k mi. 3:55, 4.6L, 2" Fabtech lift, Tow package, CD, Auto, avg. 17.2 MPG w/ Goodyear GA 255/75/16's
future mods: BFG 285/75/16's, 3" fabtech coils, K&N air filter,
80-90k mi. mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's
creativepen@yahoo.com
The old fluid in there was tired, it had about 60k mi. on it. Possibly not filled properly at the factory?? I don't realy know how that stuff would just evaporate. The Synlube guy is sending a sample of the old diff fluids out to get analized.
Anyways, it was a quart low. I topped off with standard gear oil to determine if the seals had been leaking, wasn't sure. They weren't. So the "good stuff" went in. The magnetic fill plug was just about full of the metal shavings so I feel better now that all that crud is outta there.
I didn't add any friction modifier. But wouldn't be opposed to the idea. Who makes it and where can I buy some?
Oh, the 17hp thing is base on NJ taxi-cabs w/ the same engine/trainy set-up. So, I can't be sure of the number in an absolute way. I know this, It really flew after that stuff went in. However, once I've been stuck in stop and go traffic for about an hour in the desert the performance gains are gone. Exactly what Michael_Hovis said about heat and power.
Of course I think alot of that power loss was the transmission heating up. I started doing the "WHRRRR" in 1st thing.
Might be time for the B&M shift plus and a auxilary fan for the trans cooler.
BTW, if a sunami hits Malibu, I already own beach front property.
------------------
97 XLT SC w/62k mi. 3:55, 4.6L, 2" Fabtech lift, Tow package, CD, Auto, avg. 17.2 MPG w/ Goodyear GA 255/75/16's
future mods: BFG 285/75/16's, 3" fabtech coils, K&N air filter,
80-90k mi. mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's
creativepen@yahoo.com
Originally Posted by michael_hovis
Hmmmmmmmm....
http://www.synlube.com/prod01.htm
Do NOT USE this product in:
New OEM factory build engines
New vehicles
...And some other company with what looks exactly like the same product:
http://www.synthashield.net/
http://www.synlube.com/prod01.htm
Do NOT USE this product in:
New OEM factory build engines
New vehicles
...And some other company with what looks exactly like the same product:
http://www.synthashield.net/
They DID NOT say that about new cars. I run into young people who do this sort of thing all the time. It is not only irresponsible, but it is uncalled for. You may have made some people decide not to even go and read their website and now they won't have the pleasure of buying a very good product that lasts 150,000 miles because of YOUR irresponsible post. The only fluid that is not supposed to be used in new cars is the special "Break In fluid" especially made for rebuilt engines. They went the extra mile to offer special made break in formula to be used by people who need it............not to be misquoted with. You purposely posted completely out of context and that is sad.
Here is what they REALLY have to say about NEW CARS and NEW ENGINES:
SynLube™ Lube-4-Life ® ...for Engines is backed up, if installed in NEW vehicles, by our exclusive Limited Lubrication Performance Warranty for up to:
10 Years or 300,000 Miles (10 years or 500,000 Kilometers)
see: Warranty in Services section for details.
SynLube™ Lube-4-Life ® ...for Engines exceeds all of the following performance requirements:
API Service SJ Warranty Requirements for new 1997 Model Cars, Vans & Trucks
API Service SL Warranty Requirements for new 2001 Model Cars, Vans & Trucks
API Service SM Warranty Requirements for new 2005 Model Cars, Vans & Trucks
10 Years or 300,000 Miles (10 years or 500,000 Kilometers)
see: Warranty in Services section for details.
SynLube™ Lube-4-Life ® ...for Engines exceeds all of the following performance requirements:
API Service SJ Warranty Requirements for new 1997 Model Cars, Vans & Trucks
API Service SL Warranty Requirements for new 2001 Model Cars, Vans & Trucks
API Service SM Warranty Requirements for new 2005 Model Cars, Vans & Trucks
From what I can tell, they don't say much about detergents in their formula because their oil does not cause any of the problems that traditional motor oils cause, therefore they don't need it. They DO however say that you have to use their special oil that gets rid of allthe deposits and sludge and other problems that your previous motor oils caused to get rid of it all before using the regular synlube by itself, which makes perfect sense. I wish some people would take the time to read EVERYTHING before posting such nonsense as you did. This is a very big problem with online forums. Most people don't want to take the time to properly research something before posting as if they are experts on the topic.
I am sorry to come here and post this, but it made me very angry to see such irresponsible posting.
R. E. Pollan
Last edited by SKYNETRP; Jun 11, 2006 at 02:27 PM.
Originally Posted by The White Monkey
Yup!!
SynthaShield is the same exact stuff.
It should be safe to install on a factory motor after about 12-24k mi.
Depends on when you feel the rings are set.
[This message has been edited by The White Monkey (edited 08-31-2000).]
SynthaShield is the same exact stuff.
It should be safe to install on a factory motor after about 12-24k mi.
Depends on when you feel the rings are set.
[This message has been edited by The White Monkey (edited 08-31-2000).]
Originally Posted by The White Monkey
Just installed the differential oil in my 97F150. Although the factory differential lube IS comprised of synthetics, mine had 62k mi. and had been run a quart low.
Wow, this was the best seat of the pant difference I've felt. The truck felt free and much quicker. The difference felt like the e-brake was stuck on before and now it wasn't.
I used the mileage grade. They also make a towing grade.
Well, this stuff is definatley the real deal.
------------------
97 Super Cab
Wow, this was the best seat of the pant difference I've felt. The truck felt free and much quicker. The difference felt like the e-brake was stuck on before and now it wasn't.
I used the mileage grade. They also make a towing grade.
Well, this stuff is definatley the real deal.
------------------
97 Super Cab
You seem to be the only one here who read the website and tried the oils and fliuds. I am glad to see that SOMEONE read the whole thing and tried it out. I am going to try it myself now. I have a Mitsubishi 3000GT SL that I race, and I have been looking for something special to put into my car for a while. Good oil is very important when you are racing, and this stuff sounds like the real deal to me now.
I have some other GREAT stuff to tell you about that will revolutionize car lubricants forever. This product is made by a company called "XADO" (pronounced Hah-DOE), and it has a series of oils and lubricants that actually build and restore worn parts back to factory specs, and has a friction surface 10 to 20 times smoother than the original parts and is 10 times harder than steel with a hardness of way above 60 Rockwell.
It is a ceramic/metal matrix that adheres to the actual metal surfaces that rub together and rebuilds the parts until there is NO MORE friction and the parts have to be back to spec for that to happen. I have personally used these products in an old worn out Ford Escort in every place that required oil or fluid, and in about 1500 miles I noticed that my compression was back to original specs when I had it tested to see if it actually worked............completely surprised me! The product will not lockup your engine because when the friction ceases, so does the product.........it quits working without the friction that makes it activate. This product also comes with a 1 year warranty that says that the factory specs will stay for at least one year. If you do get some wear it reactivates and rebuilds it again. Check it out at http://www.xadoshop.com/.
If you are not going to read it ALL, don't even bother to go there, it takes a while to read everything and understand how it works. I tried it personally and I can tell you that it works exactly like it says it does......incredible. I do not work for XADO, nor do I sell their products, I just want you to have the pleasure of watching your old worn out vehicles come back to life like I did............no kidding.
Originally Posted by Triton46
If you believe changing your gear oil has increased your HP and Torque...I have some ocean front property in Rhode Island I'd like to sell you.
------------------

The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau, Profile Windstream Side Deflectors and Lund X-Terminator Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page
------------------

The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau, Profile Windstream Side Deflectors and Lund X-Terminator Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page
RP, somebody... axe this guy.....
Dude... here you are jumping up and down ready to blow a gasket about people doing research... do just a teeny bit of Sherlock work yourself and see that this thread is 6 YEARS OLD!!!
Hell, Al Gore invented the internet in less time than that.....
That website could have changed a million times since these guys posted what they did. For that matter, most of the players in this thread haven't even been logged onto this site in 6 months or more..
Dude... here you are jumping up and down ready to blow a gasket about people doing research... do just a teeny bit of Sherlock work yourself and see that this thread is 6 YEARS OLD!!!
Hell, Al Gore invented the internet in less time than that.....
That website could have changed a million times since these guys posted what they did. For that matter, most of the players in this thread haven't even been logged onto this site in 6 months or more..
Last edited by quackrstackr; Jun 11, 2006 at 04:19 PM.
Originally Posted by quackrstackr
RP, somebody... axe this guy.....
Dude... here you are jumping up and down ready to blow a gasket about people doing research... do just a teeny bit of Sherlock work yourself and see that this thread is 6 YEARS OLD!!!
Hell, Al Gore invented the internet in less time than that.....
That website could have changed a million times since these guys posted what they did. For that matter, most of the players in this thread haven't even been logged onto this site in 6 months or more..
Dude... here you are jumping up and down ready to blow a gasket about people doing research... do just a teeny bit of Sherlock work yourself and see that this thread is 6 YEARS OLD!!!
Hell, Al Gore invented the internet in less time than that.....
That website could have changed a million times since these guys posted what they did. For that matter, most of the players in this thread haven't even been logged onto this site in 6 months or more..

I did do my research, I always do. I am extremely **** about doing the propper research before posting about it. I wasn't even going to register here to make comments until I saw those immature posts made with no research and detrimental to the website they were talking about. I ws only going to ask a few questions to the ones who used the product. Axe me if you want to, I am not going to learn anything here anyway if they are going to continue to post like that. You seem to have a few other members who agree with me, just look at the posts they made.
I came here to learn something about a product that looks like it will be a fantastic oil and fliud to use in racing situations as well as street riding. I saw that it was an old thread, but what difference does that make? This product is being looked at right now by a lot of racers including myself, so the thread is needed NOW. Most people remain members for years at forums, so I figured at least a few of them should still be here. You have a lot of nerve asking to kick me out just because I told them the truth. I guess that's typical of disrespectful youngsters these days............you may be a youngster and you may not be, but what you said is the maturity of a young rude kid. Sorry if I don't sit back and allow such behavior to go unpunished.
This is supposed to be an informational forum, not a place for rude unimformed and misquoted posts that do not serve the betterment of the forum. I just wanted to come here and get some answers from informed members, that's it.
If a total stranger and perspective new member comes here and the first thing he or she notices are misquotes, rude remarks, intentional misleading quotes and uneducated posts, this forum won't be one of the forums that people will want to come to, much less be a member of. Adults want informed educated posts, not comedians.
Last edited by SKYNETRP; Jun 11, 2006 at 06:25 PM.
Quackrstackr, couldn't have said it any better myself. It'd be one thing if the guy was giving some kind of informative information but to just bring up a six year old thread to chew people out (who probably do not even visit this website anymore)?
I wonder if he's going to go back and regrade my high school english papers?
- Chris
I wonder if he's going to go back and regrade my high school english papers?
- Chris
Geez...a new guy comes in here and talks bad about other members on here?? If you stick around here long enough you will see not everyone agrees with each other and claim to be as smart as you are with there stuff.
Ban him!
Ban him!
I gotta little gas for this fire.
That stuff is chit! They make astronomical claims of utter BS. They even go as far as to knock amsoil, when they sell the same basic load of crap that Amsoil does.
Run Synlube, buy a new motor! Yay hooray!
That stuff is chit! They make astronomical claims of utter BS. They even go as far as to knock amsoil, when they sell the same basic load of crap that Amsoil does.
Run Synlube, buy a new motor! Yay hooray!
I look forward to changing my oil every 3k miles.It gives me a chance to grease everything and look everything else over.But if somebody else prefers to change their oil every 10 years,that's their problem.
hahaha...being a techy as well I immediately closed the page when it loaded. HORRIBLE web page. I know that should mean anything about the oil but to me it does. Its representation. The website is annoying just crap, It makes the company look like crap as well as the product.
besides that I'll stick to my Royal Purple in my track vehicles and whatever synthetic I feel like at the time in my daily drivers.
besides that I'll stick to my Royal Purple in my track vehicles and whatever synthetic I feel like at the time in my daily drivers.
Originally Posted by SKYNETRP
I already thought about that and I emailed the website and showed them a copy of his post. They said that they never said that the way he posted it. He did post it completely out of context.
Last edited by webmaster; Jun 11, 2006 at 09:36 PM.


