And yes that is a scratch

 

Man you have all kinds of problems there. Etching, swirls, and one hell of a scratch. How did that come about?

 

Can you feel it with your fingernail? (Those picture make me cringe)

 

Defiantly.

 

It looks like your truck needs to be where mine is right now. In the paint booth having things like that fixed.

 

Anyone else?

 

Unfortunately no they cannot be fixed w/o a repaint. If you can feel it with your fingernail, it is well into the clear.

 

If you want to do it yourself fix it...
I would try M105 and a green or orange pad with a DA followed by some touch up paint with a very small brush or q-tip followed by some 2500 wet sanding to smooth out the touch up paint followed by a couple of additional passes with M105 over the sanding strokes.
Then polish it and see if you can live with it.

 

What it means is I can't polish it out. With the proper know how it's fixable.
I did fix this with wetsanding and 105.
Notice this is a junk hood.


sanded with 1000-1500 grit

This is the proper way to use 105/205 and the other nondimishingyabadada. Spread the product even on the pad and work it in instead of using a qd like you normally would to prime it.





The last two are 2x PFW, then 2x on a polishing pad 1200 rpm. On the second once it flashed i sprayed DI water and jeweled it at 900 rpm. The scratch is gone!

Then i decided to push things. These are 400 or 600 grit sanding marks, yeah i took it through the clear in the middle to see how much it would actually take. The thing is i used Ultimate compound to see what it could do.




Not that bad for such a rough sanding. If someone finishes at anything less than 1000 they are

SO i decided to push it again. I went back over the area with 1200 grit.




This is a better picture of the priming. minus the fact i used a little bit too much :biglaugh: I used this pad with ALOT of pressure and high rpms to see if i could get through the clear but it didnt happen.



In processs

you can still see a couple RIDS from the 400 grit, but all in that was best i was getting without wet sanding it again.
105 on burgundy x2, pfw x2, and then a polishing pad x2 w/ kbm

For you RR..i went through the clear.

The first one is after sanding 3 minutes with moderate pressure using 1000 grit. The next one i went over the spot with 400 just because i felt like it so you guys can see it better.



The pad priming process explain. "KB" method


.. My take on the KB method.

It's meant to be used on a DA. I applied the same concept to the rotary. He says to use 1000 rpms for a rotary.

By spreading your 105/205/151/and i think 86? on the pad evenly you are creating a consistent surface. Think of it similar to unigrit sandpaper. So the abrasives don't diminish you are creating a consistent work area for the product. By using a DA it's basically making it into a wetsanding machine with the consistent throw. I can use the DA, work 105 in until it flashes, spritz DI water on the panel and work it again with light pressure and finish out LSP ready.

Personally when i was using the rotary i was experimenting some. I was polishing at 1200 or so until 105 flashed, then spirtz the water and jeweled it at 900 with light pressure. This still left some marring that would easily be cleaned up with 205 or a DA. What's odd is I ran pfw at 1200 until it flashed, spirtz DI water and ran it at 1200 again with no visible marring left behind.

That's just my theory and what works for me.

 

Impressive and informative.

When you say, "I can use the DA, work 105 in until it flashes."
Do you mean work the product until it almost dries or starts to clump?

 

If it's clumping you're using too much product. You work it until it turns almost transparent hench the "flash".

I know you use LC ccs pads but imo they aren't not a good idea with products such as 105.

I got another hood and a fender so i'll probably post more up for you guys.

 

Yes at the proper angle I learned the hard way M105 does go transparent.

I use 4" and 5.5" pads.
Who do you recommend that makes that pad size?

I did have quite a bit of trouble with the LC pads and 105.
Why do you think they dont play well with M105?
Would I have better luck with M205?

Do you or anybody here have any experience with Optimum Polish II, Optimum Compound II or Optimum Hyper Compound?

 

I've never had problems with 105 clumping so I gather I've been using a good amount of product but it does dust like a SOB. I always hear people saying how non-flat pads aren't good but I like my CCS pads and haven't had a problem yet. I've heard they're not good for non-diminishing abrasive and I've heard they're not good for diminishing abrasives. I would think if anything they wouldn't be good with diminishing abrasives because as the abrasives break down and start to smooth the paint out I imagine it's possible to apply a bit of pressure and reintroduce abrasives in their larger state and they won't break down evenly. Thus not leaving a great finish. With non-diminishing, I dn't see an issue as the product doesn't break down so introducing fresh product isn't an issue. If you're really that worried about it (I am not) you can try and find some flat LC pads. They can be hard to come across and sometimes you can't find all the colors in all the sizes. Detailed Image has a decent selection and I have ordered from them before with no problems.

 

Unfair, you tricked me , I assumed it was well into the clear and couldn't be wetsanded. You devil

 

I use meg's soft buff pads. .6.5 but they work fine even with a g110. I've got a whole line of 4 inch ccs pads and 3.5 pfw coming. for the da/rotary.

i believe the recessed pockets are holding the abrasives from 105/205 in and introducing them at the wrong time. Mike Philips stresses using a flat pad for a consistent work. I've tried using it with a white lake and couldn't get it to finish down for anything

I use wool, soft buff pads, and I'm about to try the small ccs pads.

As far as the Optimum polish II, Compound II, and Hyper compound; I ordered that too as justin said he like it alot so i'll let you know about that.

Andrew did you learn something though?

+1 for detailedimage too. I'll be ordering from there after i get a couple cars done for some spare money.

Feel free to ask away old dogg. I'll give you my email to if you want it.