over #7 show car glaze. Is that possible?

I got suckered into buying this show car glaze, now I don't know what to do with the stuff other than applying beneath something else. I know it's a non drying product. There's the rub--no pun.

 

Yes. You can use it over #7. In fact, I think you'll be quite impressed with it... especially on your dark paint.

 

Rock, I see you all over these threads man... Maybe you can make a novice detailer more advanced.

I have 2006 Black Fx4 Screw.
what should I use to make it shine the best? Currently I wash it very often and just use a wal-mart meguires wax as you dry spray, works ok but im sure there is better. I also always use microfiber towels and rags.

I would like some advice on what I should do when I have an entire day dedicated to making my baby shine. Products? Steps? advice?

I have the light black Fx4 trim pieces that I want to take care of, as well as my wheels, inner fenders, and of course the paint.

Any help is appreciated... I know your truck looks good so you must have some tricks.

 

RockPick thanks again.

OK.... Now I know that the #7 will skin and that I should wipe or just break the skin on the initial wipe down. However, I'm lost thereafter with using the S100 as an LSP--(i.e.)where do I quit wiping the #7 and start applying the S100?

 

Whew... that's an open ended question...

Washing is probably the point at which you'll introduce the most problems. As such, use a lot of common sense to avoid contaminating your equipment and washwater. Things like using the two-bucket method, dedicated sponges/mitts, and high-quality equipment & chemicals can minimize swirling/scratching etc.

Drying is probably the next point at which you can introduce problems. Items like using a 'sheeting drying' method and blotting the remaining droplets dry will minimize the friction across your paint and thus, minimize the potential for swirls/scratching etc.

Polishing/Waxing - use quality products by well known vendors. There are oodles upon oodles of good products out there. Try a few and determine what you like best. On black, I'd recommend a quality synthetic with a quality carnauba over it as a last step.

That's a VERY abbreviated version... does that help?

 

Another key to #7 is THIN THIN THIN THIN THIN. If you get thick with it, you're going to hate yourself and the product... especially if it totally dries. Trust me...

The simple answer is to not get real carried away with the 'buffing' of #7 and move to S100... it really won't take much to accelerate the depth to another level with #7.

 

Well, obviously I'll want to try a smaller experimental section being I've never used #7. That said, what can I use to remove #7 if I decide not to fiddle with it?

How much would you use at a time applying thin, thin. thin? Dime size amount?

And on what type of applicator pad? I do have Meg's sponge and MF applicators.

Thanks...

 

Rock...

I can get the washing and drying done... What about afterwards?

I want to get the wet look of paint, and non faded trim molds.

I know that there are muliplte ranges of products, but what is your favorite that can be accompolished within 4 hours, after that I need to grab some more beers..

I'd love to get people to stare as i roll by....

 

Removing it... not sure that there's much of a point but, if you're so inclined, used a very lightly abrasive polish with a polishing pad.

By 'thin', I mean the ultimate coat on the paint. Remember, you're controlling the thickness that you leave it on the paint with the PC ... or with a hand applicator.

Use the MF applicators.... or a finishing pad of some sort.

 

How much are you really willing to put in to this? I know you mention 4-hours as a 'go by' but, within that time frame, one could accomplish a LOT or a little and do it very very well. I mean, I dropped nearly 13 hours into a Mustang last weekend and could've given it another 10 hours but, I had to push away.

Are you just looking for a quick wash/wax or do you have some paint problems that you might want to deal with?

The trim is simple... keep it clean and use either Vinylex or Aerospace 303 on it. Spray on an applicator... apply... allow to dry... lightly wipe off the excess.

-RP-

 

Yeah well give me something for a weekend project.. maybe once a month or two.

and give me something for just a slimple wash and shine..

Ill put in the work..

 

If the paint has no imperfections, I'd clay it and then apply a nice synthetic like Meguiar's NXT, Mother's Synwax, #21 Synthetic Sealant (Meguiar's), or something similar. After 12+ hours of cure time, I'd apply a nice carnauba-based wax as a topper (maybe Meguiar's #26 or similar)

All of the products, minus #21, can be found at your local Pep Boys and typically your local Auto Zone/Advance/Kragen/O'Riley's.

Use a quality dressing on the tires like Meguiar's Insane Spray (no aeresol because of hexane content concerns). On your trim -- and only on occasion (no need for every round) -- use Vinylex or 303.

The main thing to keep it looking good is common sense and technique. Any Joe Blow can smack a coat of wax on a vehicle and make it shine... it takes a true enthusiast to take the time to pay attention to detail and to follow proper procedures on washing and drying (which will GREATLY reduce the potential for paint problem introduction (swirls/straight line scratches/etc).

-RP-

 

Right on.... I knew it was gonna be some work, but that would take forever... but as I mentioned, I'm dedicated...

I will just have to do some reading up on those products for all the tricks and techniques. Thanks Rock. I guess you must work for Meguires.. lol Good work, I'll try it out hopefully next weekend.

Thanks.

 

Most synonymous thing I've read today.