Actual clay technique
#1
03-12-2007, 05:13 PM
Actual clay technique
Now im curious about the effect of claying on the clear coat. I was instructed on a different forum by a professional body shop worker, that suggested that when claying you need to use only horizontal or vertical strokes b.c using circles could induce more swirl marks.
whats the truth to this?
-Patrick
whats the truth to this?
-Patrick
#2
03-12-2007, 05:23 PM
#3
03-12-2007, 05:31 PM
idk, im just going based on the information given, and i wonder what truth there was to it. Ill find the exact quote in a minute
Hey Dakotakiller5.3, don't forget to go in a horizontal or vertical motion only. If you swirl a clay bar it will scratch your paint in that direction which is harder to buff out. If you drop a clay bar on the ground, cut the area off that got dirty and throw it away because the debris will scratch your paint also. I'm sure you already know this but I wanted to post this to members that don't. Ya, I used to paint cars before I was a machinist. LOL
Last edited by Patman; 03-12-2007 at 05:38 PM.
#5
03-12-2007, 06:50 PM
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Anything ANYTHING touches your paint, you *in theory* could add "swirls. The absolutely, positively most crucial part to clay barring a vehicle IMO is the pre-clay wash and rinse. I usually wash a vehicle twice, and spend extra time rinsing the crap out of it. You would be surprised how much you can miss and leave behind with even a good, single wash effort.
After some serious washing and rinsing, there is much less chance to rub anything into the paint. Excessive lube and constantly folding the clay are also important to avoid this. I also check the clay for small chunks that I can pick out with my fingernail as I go along.
After a solid clay job, since you likely removed most, if not all of the wax, it would be a good idea to go over the paint with a very light scratch remover like Scratch-X. THEN, after the paint has really been cleaned well (ie clay + scratch-x), re-coat with your waxes of choice. Should turn some heads for sure
After some serious washing and rinsing, there is much less chance to rub anything into the paint. Excessive lube and constantly folding the clay are also important to avoid this. I also check the clay for small chunks that I can pick out with my fingernail as I go along.
After a solid clay job, since you likely removed most, if not all of the wax, it would be a good idea to go over the paint with a very light scratch remover like Scratch-X. THEN, after the paint has really been cleaned well (ie clay + scratch-x), re-coat with your waxes of choice. Should turn some heads for sure
#6
03-12-2007, 06:51 PM
Dropping your clay will definitely contaminate it and that portion of the clay should be chucked or you'll risk scratching the surface.
As for the direction of use, it really depends on a number of factors. If you're using a clay that's more abrasive, then you definitely run the risk of scratching or marring the paint in the direction you're using the clay. If you're using a consumer grade clay like the Clay Magic bars found at Autozone, then it shouldn't make too much difference 'unless' abrasive particulate is being embedded into the bar, in which case it may scratch the surface.
Without sufficient lube, the clay will surely marr and or scratch the surface. Ideally, the clay should be riding on a film of lube (hydroplaning) until it encounters something above surface its hydroplaning on (i.e. bonded surface contaminants). When the clay enounters something above the thin film of lube, it will either shear off or sand down the contaminant with each pass you make. After a short while, you'll notice the clay becomming dirty and you can simply fold it over, roll it into a ball and flatten it out for use again and again, etc, until it's too contaminated to use anymore on your paint. You can however continue to use this dirty clay on trim, wheels, etc, if you want to squeeze more use from it.
As for the direction of use, it really depends on a number of factors. If you're using a clay that's more abrasive, then you definitely run the risk of scratching or marring the paint in the direction you're using the clay. If you're using a consumer grade clay like the Clay Magic bars found at Autozone, then it shouldn't make too much difference 'unless' abrasive particulate is being embedded into the bar, in which case it may scratch the surface.
Without sufficient lube, the clay will surely marr and or scratch the surface. Ideally, the clay should be riding on a film of lube (hydroplaning) until it encounters something above surface its hydroplaning on (i.e. bonded surface contaminants). When the clay enounters something above the thin film of lube, it will either shear off or sand down the contaminant with each pass you make. After a short while, you'll notice the clay becomming dirty and you can simply fold it over, roll it into a ball and flatten it out for use again and again, etc, until it's too contaminated to use anymore on your paint. You can however continue to use this dirty clay on trim, wheels, etc, if you want to squeeze more use from it.
#7
03-12-2007, 09:44 PM
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