I read somewhere in these posts that 3M Adhesive Remover (Citrus) works well on SAP. Well it does. They should market it for that as well.

 

How extensive is the sap coverage on your vehicle?

I ask this only because any type of adhesive remover/tar remover/bug remover is typically a pretty agressive chemical that probably shouldn't be utilized over the entire painted surface of a vehicle.

A much safer alternative (and easier as well) would be to simply clay the affected areas. This will remove not only the sap, but also other 'stuck on' contamination types like rail dust, fossilized bugs, and water spots (surficial variety -- not acid rain etch).

RP

 

You will not believe how well Rain-X works on sap. Sap comes right off and does not seem to effect the paint.

 

Which type of RainX? They have several products. there's original RainX (yellow bottle) and the RainX Cleaning compound.

BTW I used the 3M Adhesive Remover only on a small part of the truck. About a square inch.

 

yellow bottle

 

If you're just using it over a square inch or similar, the adhesive remover is a fine product to utilize. Just remember to rewax the affected areas as any adhesive remover will remove wax.

I'd discourage you from using Rain-X. While it may work exceedingly well, it's because it's almost entirely alcohol based. With that in mind, most of us wouldn't take pure alcohol and go to work on a spot of sap on the paint. (Rain-X MSDS Here)

It probably works really well but, think about this and the volatile organic compound content; when you apply Rain-X to glass, think about how fast it 'flashes' off. That's because it's nearly ALL VOC (aka: solvent). Alcohol is a main (>50%) component (along with acetone) in fingernail polish remover.

Totally up to you. It's not my paint.

RP

 

Hello RockPick,
I've used it for several years with no noticeable damage to the paint. I have worked in a body and put things onto paint that would freak you shinny guys. Factory applied finish is very durable (quality refinish is very good, but not as durable as OE). I have wiped paint down with everything from carb cleaner to lacquer thinner and have never seen anything too noticeable happen (a quick hand polish brings the shine back, if it dulls at all). The harsher the solvent, the faster it cuts, the less time the paint stays wet with solvent. I believe keeping the finish wet with solvent, even mild ones, does more damage than a quick wipe. You will notice the paint softening if you keep it wet too long, but stronger solvents work fast. Also, I always spray the solvent onto the rag rather than the paint. We used to use rattle can flexible parts stripper to remove factory painted pins stripes. As long as we worked fast, we never had a single problem.

Compared to these techniques Rain-X is super mild. It seems to work better than straight alcohol. I've never seen have any affect on paint other than leaving is clean an sap free. I use it in the shade and spray it onto the rag, and it cleans my stuff great. It is really your call. It is your paint and elbow grease. Do what you feel is best. As most warning labels on cleaners read, “try on an inconspicuous area first”

 

Bent,

I understand and it's tough to argue with results. I know that OE finishes (as well as most aftermarket) are super-durable; it just scares me to risk it...