Line-X, Rhino? Differences?
Line-X, Rhino? Differences?
About to have a line-x installed tomorrow. I have a hard retractable tonneau. So i dont think i need the UV protection. Anyways, is line-x the way to go over Rhino. Are there differences?
There is difference between the two. I went with the rhino mostly for that it has a more rubber feel to it and that things don't slide around as much. My father in law has line-x and it is just like hard plastic and stuff slides all over, but thats my only experience with line-x. Good luck.
Line-X is far superior to Rhino... thickness, appearance, texture, etc. However, all spray-in liners, and bed rugs for that matter, really only protect from scratches and minor impacts. Once something heavy knocks the bottom of the bed, or the sides, it can dent it. The spray ins won't chip or crack, but the bed will still dent. The best policy is to throw a bed mat on top of the spray in, or better yet, a drop in liner would be best over top of the spray in (over the top, not a drop-in alone) to take the major impacts. This is the truth, plain and simple.
But if you are one of those urban cowboys who only has a truck because it is trendy, to neglect friends and family so you can wash it because all it sees for action is construction dust from the local highway and the drive through at McDonald's, and trying to look cool for some girls who could care less, then a spray in only would be fine.
I'm sure someone here will have their ego hurt so boo hoo and let your snide comments fly
. However, a truck is for using, not just being a driveway beauty queen. My rigs look great and are cared for very well, but at the end of the day, they are still trucks. Line-x seals the bed (a good thing) but more is still needed on top to protect from dents.
Two work trucks and two personal trucks... I know from experience.
But if you are one of those urban cowboys who only has a truck because it is trendy, to neglect friends and family so you can wash it because all it sees for action is construction dust from the local highway and the drive through at McDonald's, and trying to look cool for some girls who could care less, then a spray in only would be fine.
I'm sure someone here will have their ego hurt so boo hoo and let your snide comments fly
. However, a truck is for using, not just being a driveway beauty queen. My rigs look great and are cared for very well, but at the end of the day, they are still trucks. Line-x seals the bed (a good thing) but more is still needed on top to protect from dents.Two work trucks and two personal trucks... I know from experience.
Im a Linex dealer and the thing i tell my customers when they ask this question is the main differences in the systems. Linex is sprayed on at high temp and high pressure ( 150 degrees, and 5000 lbs of pressure). Rhino is a low temp low pressure system. What this means is mine goes on real uniform and consitent and is able to dry in 6 seconds. Rhino has no way of getting a consitent thickness and has giant drips hanging down from everything, like ice sickles. It takes days for rhino completely dry and u have to leave your tailgate down for a couple days so the material doesnt all sink to the bottom.
Not trying to sell anything just trying to help.
Not trying to sell anything just trying to help.
I'm a LINE-X dealer. I've posted the following many times, I'll do it again.
LINE-X and Rhino differ quite a bit. The biggest difference is that LINE-X contains polyurea and Rhino does not. Polyurea enhances the bedliner’s properties: 1. LINE-X's temperature tolerance is 250 degrees and Rhino's is 175. As the temperature of the bed approaches the temp tolerance, it loses its strength. 2. Polyurea keeps moisture out of the solution thus making a more dense and solid liner. Less moisture also means better adhesion. 3. Polyurea also makes for a tougher liner. The tear strength of LINE-X is 304 pounds per linear inch (pli). Rhino is 145 pli. 4. Polyurea sets up very fast, that's one reason why LINE-X goes on with heat and high pressure. LINE-X dries in about 4 seconds, so you get an even application throughout the bed. Rhino takes a minute or so to even gel, an hour or so to dry. Before it gels, gravity can pull the liner from the top ridges in to the low valleys. Rhino’s Tuff Stuff goes on cold/low pressure and thus has that “cottage cheese” or “rain on the windshield” look. LINE-X’s high heat/high pressure system gives it a very nice finished and more consistently applied texture, it’s sort of like an orange peel. The dealer can vary the texture from smooth to very rough. 5. Polyurea makes the liner more chemical resistant, especially to organic oils and solvents.
LINE-X offers a written nationwide lifetime warranty. Rhino’s warranty is only with the dealer that sprayed it.
Here's a pic of Rhino that's peeling, but take a look at the texture:

Here's LINE-X's texture, more uniform and like an orange peel.
LINE-X and Rhino differ quite a bit. The biggest difference is that LINE-X contains polyurea and Rhino does not. Polyurea enhances the bedliner’s properties: 1. LINE-X's temperature tolerance is 250 degrees and Rhino's is 175. As the temperature of the bed approaches the temp tolerance, it loses its strength. 2. Polyurea keeps moisture out of the solution thus making a more dense and solid liner. Less moisture also means better adhesion. 3. Polyurea also makes for a tougher liner. The tear strength of LINE-X is 304 pounds per linear inch (pli). Rhino is 145 pli. 4. Polyurea sets up very fast, that's one reason why LINE-X goes on with heat and high pressure. LINE-X dries in about 4 seconds, so you get an even application throughout the bed. Rhino takes a minute or so to even gel, an hour or so to dry. Before it gels, gravity can pull the liner from the top ridges in to the low valleys. Rhino’s Tuff Stuff goes on cold/low pressure and thus has that “cottage cheese” or “rain on the windshield” look. LINE-X’s high heat/high pressure system gives it a very nice finished and more consistently applied texture, it’s sort of like an orange peel. The dealer can vary the texture from smooth to very rough. 5. Polyurea makes the liner more chemical resistant, especially to organic oils and solvents.
LINE-X offers a written nationwide lifetime warranty. Rhino’s warranty is only with the dealer that sprayed it.
Here's a pic of Rhino that's peeling, but take a look at the texture:

Here's LINE-X's texture, more uniform and like an orange peel.
Last edited by TruckGasm; Aug 9, 2005 at 10:23 AM.
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Originally Posted by dmelchi2000
Im a Linex dealer and the thing i tell my customers when they ask this question is the main differences in the systems. Linex is sprayed on at high temp and high pressure ( 150 degrees, and 5000 lbs of pressure). Rhino is a low temp low pressure system. What this means is mine goes on real uniform and consitent and is able to dry in 6 seconds. Rhino has no way of getting a consitent thickness and has giant drips hanging down from everything, like ice sickles. It takes days for rhino completely dry and u have to leave your tailgate down for a couple days so the material doesnt all sink to the bottom.
Not trying to sell anything just trying to help.
Not trying to sell anything just trying to help.
Thanks,
ziebart rhinolinings
90 route 23 north
riverdale n.j 07457
973-831-9595
Last edited by rhinolinings; Aug 9, 2005 at 01:45 PM.
dmelchi2000: You might let Scott reply to these posts, no flames, but he seems to be more informed.
Thickness: Both Rhino and LINE-X tell their dealers to spray the same, up to 1/4" on the bed and up to 1/8" on the sides. If your Rhino or LINE-X bedliner is more or less than this, then it's the individual dealer making that decision.
Heat: A little bit of clarification: LINE-X chemicals move from the pump to the spray gun via a heated hose (heated to about 115 degrees), hence the term "hot spray". Rhino chemicals do not move through a heated hose, hence the term "cold spray". It's not really cold, it's room temperature. But, "cold" is a term commonly used in the urethanes business if it's not heated. Heat is generated when the two chemicals mix due to chemical bonding.
Durability: I'm not sure how you are measuring durability. That's fairly subjective I'd say.
It's nice to have choices!
Thickness: Both Rhino and LINE-X tell their dealers to spray the same, up to 1/4" on the bed and up to 1/8" on the sides. If your Rhino or LINE-X bedliner is more or less than this, then it's the individual dealer making that decision.
Heat: A little bit of clarification: LINE-X chemicals move from the pump to the spray gun via a heated hose (heated to about 115 degrees), hence the term "hot spray". Rhino chemicals do not move through a heated hose, hence the term "cold spray". It's not really cold, it's room temperature. But, "cold" is a term commonly used in the urethanes business if it's not heated. Heat is generated when the two chemicals mix due to chemical bonding.
Durability: I'm not sure how you are measuring durability. That's fairly subjective I'd say.
It's nice to have choices!
Last edited by TruckGasm; Aug 9, 2005 at 01:42 PM.
Originally Posted by TruckGasm
dmelchi2000: You might let Scott reply to these posts, no flames, but he seems to be more informed.
Thickness: Both Rhino and LINE-X tell their dealers to spray the same, up to 1/4" on the bed and up to 1/8" on the sides. If your Rhino or LINE-X bedliner is more or less than this, then it's the individual dealer making that decision.
Heat: A little bit of clarification: LINE-X chemicals move from the pump to the spray gun via a heated hose (heated to about 115 degrees), hence the term "hot spray". Rhino chemicals do not move through a heated hose, hence the term "cold spray". It's not really cold, it's room temperature. But, "cold" is a term commonly used in the urethanes business if it's not heated. Heat is generated when the two chemicals mix due to chemical bonding.
Durability: I'm not sure how you are measuring durability. That's fairly subjective I'd say.
It's nice to have choices!
Thickness: Both Rhino and LINE-X tell their dealers to spray the same, up to 1/4" on the bed and up to 1/8" on the sides. If your Rhino or LINE-X bedliner is more or less than this, then it's the individual dealer making that decision.
Heat: A little bit of clarification: LINE-X chemicals move from the pump to the spray gun via a heated hose (heated to about 115 degrees), hence the term "hot spray". Rhino chemicals do not move through a heated hose, hence the term "cold spray". It's not really cold, it's room temperature. But, "cold" is a term commonly used in the urethanes business if it's not heated. Heat is generated when the two chemicals mix due to chemical bonding.
Durability: I'm not sure how you are measuring durability. That's fairly subjective I'd say.
It's nice to have choices!
ALSO AS FOR THE PICS OF THE RHINO AND THE LINEX I HAVE BEEN SPRAYING FOR 2 1/2 YEARS AND HAD ONLY 1 COMBACK BECAUSE THE PUMPS MESSED UP . AND FROM THE PICTURE I CAN SEE THAT THE RHINO DEALER THAT SPRAYED THAT USED A DA SANDER . WHICH WORKS IN SOME CASES . BUT IS NOT THE BEST WAY TO SAND . SO ONE PEEL JOB TO A FRESH SPRAYED LINEX IS NOT A GOOD COMPARISION .
Originally Posted by JJG052590
Well i've herd that line x is great compared to rhino i herd rhino linings in the heat will begin to peel and go to crap i'm going to get a line x soon myself 

HEAT HAS NO EFFECT ON BEDLINERS AT ALL ONLY PLASTIC DROP INS WHAT YOU HEARD WAS WRONG INFO . I WILL SAY THAT FOR ALL SPARY IN BEDLINERS RHINO , LINEX, SPEEDLINER, AMERAGAURD ETC
Well, really, if any brand that contains polyurethane or polyurea peels, it's more of a application problem than a product problem. Moisture can be a significant factor regarding adhesion.
For those who know a little chemisty: Polyurethanes have an hydroxl resin. Humidity (moisture) can cause a lot of problems as far as adhesion. It's best if polyurethanes are sprayed in very dry conditions. On the other hand, polyurea has amine terminated resins. Moisture is much less of a problem. Also, the isocyanate reacts MUCH faster with the ureas amine than with the urethanes hydroxl molecule. Summery: The 100% polyurethane bedliners can have a harder time with adhesion than the brands that contain polyurea. Polyurethanes do provide excellent adhesion (under perfect conditions, though.)
For those who know a little chemisty: Polyurethanes have an hydroxl resin. Humidity (moisture) can cause a lot of problems as far as adhesion. It's best if polyurethanes are sprayed in very dry conditions. On the other hand, polyurea has amine terminated resins. Moisture is much less of a problem. Also, the isocyanate reacts MUCH faster with the ureas amine than with the urethanes hydroxl molecule. Summery: The 100% polyurethane bedliners can have a harder time with adhesion than the brands that contain polyurea. Polyurethanes do provide excellent adhesion (under perfect conditions, though.)
Last edited by TruckGasm; Aug 9, 2005 at 03:28 PM.
Originally Posted by JJG052590
Well i've herd that line x is great compared to rhino i herd rhino linings in the heat will begin to peel and go to crap i'm going to get a line x soon myself 




Line-X will not let you down!
This is actually Smelchi not Dmelchi. I am using his log in because I forgot my password.
RhinoLinings answer this question for me. I am not trying to start anything just want the facts.
If Rhino linings dries so you can walk on it and use it like it had been in there for a year in 9 secondes. Why do all the Rhino stores in my area want the truck for at least 24 hours before they let the customer take possesion of the truck? They also won't let the customer put the tailgate up for two days and no use of the truck for three days. So does it really dry in 9 seconds to the same hardness as Line-X?
Because I can get a bedliner done in an hour and a half and the customer can use it right away. So what is your definition of dry? Or should we really be using the term cure time until full use?
Just wanting to know because I use the fact that Rhino takes so long to set up as a major selling point. And trust me I have rarely and I might even go so far as to say I a have never seen a Rhino lining that didn't have drips and runs in it from the application process. Maybe the three guys in my area aren't good at what they do but it sure seems like a flaw in the material or process for that many of them to look that way.
RhinoLinings answer this question for me. I am not trying to start anything just want the facts.
If Rhino linings dries so you can walk on it and use it like it had been in there for a year in 9 secondes. Why do all the Rhino stores in my area want the truck for at least 24 hours before they let the customer take possesion of the truck? They also won't let the customer put the tailgate up for two days and no use of the truck for three days. So does it really dry in 9 seconds to the same hardness as Line-X?
Because I can get a bedliner done in an hour and a half and the customer can use it right away. So what is your definition of dry? Or should we really be using the term cure time until full use?
Just wanting to know because I use the fact that Rhino takes so long to set up as a major selling point. And trust me I have rarely and I might even go so far as to say I a have never seen a Rhino lining that didn't have drips and runs in it from the application process. Maybe the three guys in my area aren't good at what they do but it sure seems like a flaw in the material or process for that many of them to look that way.


