actually- the second Line-X dealer just opened for business in NJ. he is on route-22 in warren i think. the other one is somewhere near sayerville. the new one is closer to me but i am going to wait and let him get a couple beds under his belt before i bring mine in.

 

After reading this entire thread I think I'll line-x my new bed and then add a mat.

 

have an appointment this friday to have my screw and the wife's colorado line-xed. i'll get some pics this weekend. anyone need a screw bedliner??? it's in the classifieds..

 

I did a lot of research last year before having my '06 XLT lined. From everything I've heard, both read online and from friends that have both Rhino and Line-X, Line-X is harder, and less "rubbery." Rhino, which I ultimately went with, is slightly rubbery. You can go back and forth forever about this, and everyone seems to have a preference, but I'd see if you can see (read: FEEL) either a sample at a dealer, a showroom truck, or a friend's liner in both Line-X and Rhino. In either case, the guy who applies it definitely makes a HUGE difference - I had mine done at a GMC dealer and it came out PERFECTLY. Don't take anything here as gospel, definitely take it as recommendations but in the end, go out and check them both out first-hand and make your own decision.

my .02 at least, HTH

 

I agree, after gathering info from the internet, you need to go look and see the bedliners. They are not the same and they look and feel different.

 

How'd you get that skull and antler in there? That looks real nice. I'm hoping it can be done after the line-x has been sprayed in since mine has been in since last summer. Love the liner by the way and its holding up great. Unfortunately, which isn't a huge deal, they couldn't remove the bolts anchoring the bed, broke 2 Snap-On bits trying so they ended up going around them. Still done very neatly and looks great however.

 

We use a reusable stencil to apply the logos. And, they are free!

Well, they need to use an air tool (impact wrench) to remove the bolts. We rarely have any problems removing the bolts.

 

So would it be a stretch to assume that it would be too late to get some sort of stencil in their at this point?

 

It can still be done, but it's more of a hastle. First, make sure the dealer has stencils to apply the logo. Then, he's going to have to apply a primer to existing surface, then apply another (thin) layer of LINE-X, then spray the stencil.

That's the correct way to do it. If a primer is not used, the old LINE-X could separate from the new LINE-X.

 

I have had esperience with all these and as far as overall superiority it would have to go to Speedliner. It is a cold spray and does take 48 hours to completely cure but when it is cured it is twice as strong as either the Rhino or Line-X. It maintains it's appearance and doesn't get hard and plasticy like a Line-X and doesn't fade like both of the others.

Test Speedliner Rhino Linings U.S.A., Inc. TUFF STUFF® Speedliner® Advantage
Tensile Strength 4700 psi Actual results 1700-1900 psi 62-176% stronger

Tear Strength 865 lbs/in Actual results 140-150 lbs/in 476-517% stronger

Abrasion test 4.4 mg loss Actual results 10-15 mg loss 127-240% stronger
per 1000 rev Per 1000 rev

Elongation 570% Actual results 325-375% 42-75% stronger

Hardness 92 Shore A 85-90 Shore A None

Flammability 0 burn rate Actual results N.A.

U.V. Strength 80-89% gloss retention Actual results N.A.
after 2000 hours

Di-Electric Strength 278 V/mil Actual results N.A.
(+/-35)