New method to extract porcelain from broken spark plugs
New method to extract porcelain from broken spark plugs
Changed my plugs this week, three broke and two left the porcelain in the head. To get them out I used a method that I haven't seen described anywhere that worked really well.
I used a #2-56 screw glued into a 2" #4-40 standoff as the "pin" to glue into the porcelain. For the "extractor," I drilled and tapped a #4-40 hole in the end of a 3/8" threaded rod and put a #4-40 screw in it. Essentially it was a threaded rod with a smaller threaded rod sticking out of one end. The extractor then screws into the end of the standoff part of the "pin." You use the same method to extract the porcelain as you would the ground shield with a threaded rod (described in this thread). The pins are sacrificial, but the extractor can be used over and over. It worked like a champ. Also, you can use the other end of the rod to extract the ground shield.
And if there's any interest, I could build more and sell them for a small fee.
Here are two of the "pins." The top one has porcelain attached. The bottom is unused.

Here is the "extractor." The right side is the tip, with #4-40 screw.

Here's an up close picture of the extractor tip.

Finally, here's an unused pin threaded to the extractor.
I used a #2-56 screw glued into a 2" #4-40 standoff as the "pin" to glue into the porcelain. For the "extractor," I drilled and tapped a #4-40 hole in the end of a 3/8" threaded rod and put a #4-40 screw in it. Essentially it was a threaded rod with a smaller threaded rod sticking out of one end. The extractor then screws into the end of the standoff part of the "pin." You use the same method to extract the porcelain as you would the ground shield with a threaded rod (described in this thread). The pins are sacrificial, but the extractor can be used over and over. It worked like a champ. Also, you can use the other end of the rod to extract the ground shield.
And if there's any interest, I could build more and sell them for a small fee.
Here are two of the "pins." The top one has porcelain attached. The bottom is unused.

Here is the "extractor." The right side is the tip, with #4-40 screw.

Here's an up close picture of the extractor tip.

Finally, here's an unused pin threaded to the extractor.
Last edited by vtron; Nov 10, 2008 at 05:57 PM.
seeing what a pain in the butt it is to change plugs out I wonder if it would be worth it to have a mechanic do it.. and do you really think a mechanic would change all of them out ?? I am to scared to touch mine, (5.4 v8) heck I cant even see them..
It was really easy once the glue set up. I made the mistake the first time of not letting the Motorcraft carb cleaner dry before gluing the pin. The glue never set and it pulled right out of the porcelain. Once the cleaner dried and the glue cured, a few turns of the nut and the porcelain pulled right out. Hardest part was putting the pin in the hole and trying not to touch the sides.
I'll post picks tonight when I get home.
By the way, I used Locktite 444.
I'll post picks tonight when I get home.
By the way, I used Locktite 444.
What year is your truck?
__________________
Jim
Jim
QUOTE=bluejay432000;3448199]What year is your truck?[/QUOTE]I read the wrong post
Last edited by RUSS04; Nov 10, 2008 at 07:42 PM.
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Changed my plugs this week, three broke and two left the porcelain in the head. To get them out I used a method that I haven't seen described anywhere that worked really well.
I used a #2-56 screw glued into a 2" #4-40 standoff as the "pin" to glue into the porcelain. For the "extractor," I drilled and tapped a #4-40 hole in the end of a 3/8" threaded rod and put a #4-40 screw in it. Essentially it was a threaded rod with a smaller threaded rod sticking out of one end. The extractor then screws into the end of the standoff part of the "pin." You use the same method to extract the porcelain as you would the ground shield with a threaded rod (described in this thread). The pins are sacrificial, but the extractor can be used over and over. It worked like a champ. Also, you can use the other end of the rod to extract the ground shield.
And if there's any interest, I could build more and sell them for a small fee.
Here are two of the "pins." The top one has porcelain attached. The bottom is unused.

Here is the "extractor." The right side is the tip, with #4-40 screw.

Here's an up close picture of the extractor tip.

Finally, here's an unused pin threaded to the extractor.

I used a #2-56 screw glued into a 2" #4-40 standoff as the "pin" to glue into the porcelain. For the "extractor," I drilled and tapped a #4-40 hole in the end of a 3/8" threaded rod and put a #4-40 screw in it. Essentially it was a threaded rod with a smaller threaded rod sticking out of one end. The extractor then screws into the end of the standoff part of the "pin." You use the same method to extract the porcelain as you would the ground shield with a threaded rod (described in this thread). The pins are sacrificial, but the extractor can be used over and over. It worked like a champ. Also, you can use the other end of the rod to extract the ground shield.
And if there's any interest, I could build more and sell them for a small fee.
Here are two of the "pins." The top one has porcelain attached. The bottom is unused.

Here is the "extractor." The right side is the tip, with #4-40 screw.

Here's an up close picture of the extractor tip.

Finally, here's an unused pin threaded to the extractor.

I had about 45,000 miles. First 3 plugs broke, two with the porcelain inside. The last 5 came out clean.



