Intermittent Odometer - A Repair
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Joined: Dec 2012
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I have recently joined this forum although I have enjoyed reading the messages here for several months. Thanks to those that have contributed to these boards you have helped me find a repair a couple of problems I have had with my truck. Now I would like to reciprocate.
I have had the intermittent vanishing LED odometer for a pretty long time now. It has progressively gotten worse, even more so during the summer months. Reading through these message boards it is apparent others have had the same problem with the only known fix is to have Ford replace the instrument cluster. For me the problem was not bad enough to cough up the price for the repair. Finally I had a day off and decided to look for the problem myself and see if I could fix it. I think I found the problem in my truck, the odometer has been working for a week now without fail, and I wanted to share with you how I did it.
2000 F150 Supercab Lariat 4X4 117,000 miles
1) Disconnect the negative battery connection.
2) Remove the headlamp switch. I covered the head of a thin flat head screwdriver with electrical tape and pried the bottom out then removed and disconnected the electrical connections.
3) Remove the steering column opening cover. This is the plastic cover right over the steering column, it is held in by 4 clips. I grabbed under the bottom with my finger nails and it pulled out pretty easily.
4) Remove the instrument panel finish panel. This is the plastic panel around the instrument cluster. It has several bolts and clips holding it in. Don't forget the bolt that is behind where the headlamp switch was.
5) Remove the instrument panel. (Hint: Place a towel or other soft cloth over the steering column before you try and pull it out. I put a few superficial scratches on my column.) After removing the screws, if you have an automatic transmision you need to disconnect the transmission range indicator from the bottom of it. There are two plastic tabs holding it in place. Its a little tricky getting them both loose at the same time. Then disconnect the two electrical connectors from the back and remove it. Below is a picture of the back of the instrument cluster after removal.
Remove the screws and take off the plastic cover. Here is a look at the circuit board behind the plastic cover.
The ribbon cable runs from the main circuit board to a smaller circuit board that the LED odometer resides on. Remove the ribbon cable and gently pry out the board. Here is a close up of the ribbon cable connection.
I have too many images to post the entire message. I will try to do it parts......
I have had the intermittent vanishing LED odometer for a pretty long time now. It has progressively gotten worse, even more so during the summer months. Reading through these message boards it is apparent others have had the same problem with the only known fix is to have Ford replace the instrument cluster. For me the problem was not bad enough to cough up the price for the repair. Finally I had a day off and decided to look for the problem myself and see if I could fix it. I think I found the problem in my truck, the odometer has been working for a week now without fail, and I wanted to share with you how I did it.
2000 F150 Supercab Lariat 4X4 117,000 miles
1) Disconnect the negative battery connection.
2) Remove the headlamp switch. I covered the head of a thin flat head screwdriver with electrical tape and pried the bottom out then removed and disconnected the electrical connections.
3) Remove the steering column opening cover. This is the plastic cover right over the steering column, it is held in by 4 clips. I grabbed under the bottom with my finger nails and it pulled out pretty easily.
4) Remove the instrument panel finish panel. This is the plastic panel around the instrument cluster. It has several bolts and clips holding it in. Don't forget the bolt that is behind where the headlamp switch was.
5) Remove the instrument panel. (Hint: Place a towel or other soft cloth over the steering column before you try and pull it out. I put a few superficial scratches on my column.) After removing the screws, if you have an automatic transmision you need to disconnect the transmission range indicator from the bottom of it. There are two plastic tabs holding it in place. Its a little tricky getting them both loose at the same time. Then disconnect the two electrical connectors from the back and remove it. Below is a picture of the back of the instrument cluster after removal.
Remove the screws and take off the plastic cover. Here is a look at the circuit board behind the plastic cover.
The ribbon cable runs from the main circuit board to a smaller circuit board that the LED odometer resides on. Remove the ribbon cable and gently pry out the board. Here is a close up of the ribbon cable connection.
I have too many images to post the entire message. I will try to do it parts......
thanks in advance for a reply
no1fordman
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
This is a great site I just did this repair on my 2000 Harley worked like a charm , I must admit I took my to a computer repair shop to do the soldering. Now the only problem is my trip reset button is not working I think I may have dropped a spring or something so I did not replace all screws until i check in the morning. But both electrical problems fixed , I fixed my overhead console temp. and compass yesterday with help from the site!!! Thanks for a great post I don't know if you still on here or not Greg, you haven't post since 2010 if you are tho thanks again!! BTW hardest part was putting that damn shift indicator back in!!!
1999 F250 (ld) Original Owner Thanks You
Gregg,
It's funny, dashboard cap that goes over the instrument panel, cracked down the middle. Total plastic failure, my fault actually. So while I was removing that I came across your fix for the intermittent odometer. This was the bane of my existence. Using my uber sized led magnifying light I not only found the one you pointed out but several. Thanks again and my odometer thanks you. By the way I bought this truck brand new in 1999 and it started a year after I owned it.
Respectfully
Michael J. Buckley
It's funny, dashboard cap that goes over the instrument panel, cracked down the middle. Total plastic failure, my fault actually. So while I was removing that I came across your fix for the intermittent odometer. This was the bane of my existence. Using my uber sized led magnifying light I not only found the one you pointed out but several. Thanks again and my odometer thanks you. By the way I bought this truck brand new in 1999 and it started a year after I owned it.
Respectfully
Michael J. Buckley
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hey, New too the forum i have an 04 heritage edition and this has been going on for about a year now finally found the fix to it on here thankfully. I went through and did the step by step process and re-installed and it still dosent work. Anyone have any input on what could be gone wrong here? Thanks NL04heritage
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 12
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Did mine today. Mine would work intermittently. Tapping on the gauge cluster seemed to work. Now, I'm hoping my first time soldering, is fixed for good.
Thanks
Done - and fixed! Great tip.
Thanks
Done - and fixed! Great tip.
Last edited by robert53; Aug 12, 2013 at 10:21 AM.
Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 55
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From: Connecticut,USA
Chalk me up to another successful odometer repair. Thank you to Greg and all the other contributors to this thread.
I have an '01 SC with 112K. Its been intermittent for almost two years. I bookmarked this thread back then but never got around to doing it. It has gradually been getting worse. My motivation was an upcoming emissions inspection coupled with a bad
O2 sensor. I replaced the O2 sensor and then tackled the odometer.
Did it it less than hour, directions, pictures and tips in this thread were excellent.
My '01 has the 3 clip system to hold the whole light switch assembly. Very easy, the whole module pops right out. I had the most common cracked solder joint, the outside pin that stands out by itself.
Once again thank you for taking the time to post this thread.
I have an '01 SC with 112K. Its been intermittent for almost two years. I bookmarked this thread back then but never got around to doing it. It has gradually been getting worse. My motivation was an upcoming emissions inspection coupled with a bad
O2 sensor. I replaced the O2 sensor and then tackled the odometer.
Did it it less than hour, directions, pictures and tips in this thread were excellent.
My '01 has the 3 clip system to hold the whole light switch assembly. Very easy, the whole module pops right out. I had the most common cracked solder joint, the outside pin that stands out by itself.
Once again thank you for taking the time to post this thread.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 2
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transmission issues
good day friends i had an issue with my F150 sometime last year and was told it was brainbox tried getting a matching one which started the truck but now the transmission, AC,Wiper,radio,most of the function inside the truck doesnt respond pls what could be responsible