Another successful story. Did my repair last night after putting up with the problem for so long. Glad I did it. I'm the original owner '99 XLT 4X4 Off Road. 180,000 mi. Still going strong. Hat's off to Greg!!!

 

http://www.f150forum.com/f4/04-08-od...ut-fix-103901/

Try this, I fixed my Odometer on my 06 XLT.

 

Thanks. If it goes out again I will try that. I may have done a little of what you said to fix it but it took until yesterday to work again, about five days of waiting. It had not worked at all for about six months or so and then only until I turned the truck off. It worked again today after several starts so I decided to login and let everyone know what I did.

I did everything you said above except add connection grease when putting it back in. I also re soldered all the cold solder holding on the black plug connector the LCD plugs into.

Now I have one more question, How do I know I have my needles on the right spot. The only one I am really concerned about at this time is the mileage, well maybe also the fuel gauge. When I removed the panel, instructions from another person, I did not realize the needles would release the pointing arrows.

Shawn.

 

I've been at this repair for two days: I made the repairs to the circuit board, reinstalled, and now the engine cranks but won't turn over. Now I'm trying to determine if I've broken the harness you described in your post. To solve this problem, do I need a mechanic to do a diagnostic test and reset the board or do I need a new harness?

1999 Ford F150

 

Woohoo!! Followed your excellent instructions and she's displaying perfectly now!!

Thanks, Greg!!

 

Add another satisfied customer. Took my dash apart and used the opportunity to also fix my broken shift indicator cable (using another tech post from this board) at the same time. Now I have an odometer that works all the time and a shift indicator that really shows what gear I'm in. Great site!

 

Same problem on my '00 F150. So after calling Ford Parts and being told that I would need to replace the entire instrument panel to the tune of $562 and being without it for about a week while the new one is reprogrammed and sent back, I happened upon this forum. And all I can say is God Bless F150online Forums!!!
After reading this thread and literally about 7 seconds worth of soldering, problem is fixed! It took more time to take out one dashboard screw than it did to repair this problem with my LED odometer.
Thanks to all the great people here! Keep up the fantastic work!!!

 

I realize this post is old....but it has obviously happened to several people...I am going to clarify what I know...and maybe somebody can correct or add to what I don't know

I fixed my odometer using this thread however when I reinstalled everything and went to crank the truck....it would turn over but would not start

I immediately got on the internet and found that I had probably screwed up the PATS system somehow...but how was still yet to be determined

I had the vehicle towed to ford and 500 dollars and a week later I had my truck back.......

So to hopefully save somebody the pain and suffering I endured...

From what I understand...the PATS transceiver (this is the little antenna around the ignition) is highly susceptible to electro static discharge on purpose....in other words if you touch it or something metal touches it then the potential voltage difference between the objects arch to the transceiver and is designed to destroy the circuitry and prevent future starts

everything having to do with the PATS system has big warnings all over the maintenance manual describing the susceptibility to ESD

SO DON'T GO POKING AROUND YOUR IGNITION WITH A SCREWDRIVER

I didn't actually try this...but reading the maintenance manual indicates it could probably be troubleshot this way....hopefully nobody needs this...but if somebody does please let us know if it works or not

You can enter a diagnostics mode using the odometer as a display...with the key in the off position hold trip/odemeter select button down while moving the key to the run position...hold the trip/odemeter select button down until tESt is displayed and release the button within 3 seconds....now you can proceed through the indications by depressing the trip/odemter select button...
when DTC is displayed...press the trip button...if any DTC's are present then they should appear in order with each depression of the button
if the display shows enG then you have passed the dtc mode and will have to cycle the ignition and start over or depress the trip button until you cycle back to dtc



SYMPTOM:
The vehicle does not start — theft indicator proves out for three seconds as normal

POSSIBLE CAUSE:
Less than two keys programmed to the system.
Transceiver not connected/defective.
Circuitry.
Transceiver internal antenna damaged.
NON-PATS key, damaged key or no code received.
Partial key read of PATS key.
Unprogrammed PATS key.

CARRY OUT instrument cluster on-demand self-test. RETRIEVE DTCs. If DTCs are present, GO to Instrument Cluster Diagnostics Trouble Code (DTC) Index. If no DTCs are retrieved, CHECK for other possible no-start causes.

No PCM ID stored in PATS.
PATS/PCM ID do not match.
Problem with SCP link.
CLEAR the stored DTCs. CYCLE the ignition key from off to run. RETRIEVE continuous DTCs. If DTCs are present, GO to Instrument Cluster Diagnostics Trouble Code (DTC) Index. If no DTCs are retrieved, CHECK for other possible causes.


If you see the following DTC codes in the display I would suspect you have a damaged PATS transceiver

A103 Antenna Not Connected — Defective Transceiver
9600 PATS Ignition Key Transponder Signal Is Not Received — Damaged Key or Non-PATS Key
9681 PATS Transceiver Signal Is Not Received (Not Connected, Damaged, or Wiring)

Last I checked (which was in 2010) the PATS transceiver was roughly 75 dollars...

It can be changed without reprogramming anything....

the only hard part is putting the new one in without destroying it...but I sure would give it a shot if you meet the above criteria before I spent a ton of money having it towed and fixed by Ford....

here is the PATS transceiver R & R procedure...I suggest finding plastic tools and wearing an ESD strap...you can find them at any descent electronics store...just hook the alligator clip to a bare metal surface


CAUTION: Electronic modules are sensitive to electrical charges. If exposed to these charges, damage may result.

Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582).
Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch lock cylinder and turn to the RUN position.
Insert a punch in the access hole of the steering column and press the release tab while pushing out the ignition switch lock cylinder.
Unscrew and remove the tilt wheel handle and shank.
Remove the instrument panel steering column cover. For additional information, refer to Section 501-12 .
NOTE: The steering wheel has been removed for clarity.
Remove the upper and lower steering column shrouds.
Remove the screws.
Remove the lower steering column shroud.
Remove the upper steering column shroud.
Remove the anti-theft transceiver module (15607).
Remove the screw from the bottom of the transceiver module.
NOTE: Only apply pressure or leverage below the key cylinder lower rib.
Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the module.
Installation
NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 mi) or more to relearn the strategy.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.

unfortunately the pictures will not paste...so hopefully you can figure it out from the text only....

Good luck...and let us know if it works or not

 

I am new to this site. I rarely join sites to post but have been a member of a Ferrari site for years with over 4000 post of my own and only want to comment on thi:
THIS IS THE MOST IN DEPTH OUTSTANDING COMPLETE STEP BY STEP WITH PICS SOLUTION TO A PROBLEM I HAVE EVER SEEN ON ANY SITE.
To take the time to do such a thorough post to simply help others is Outstanding.
Yes I did the fix. It took 35 minutes and works flawlessly.
Thanks a million.

 

ps
did on 2000 expedition

 

for 04-08 it is actually really simple. No soldering required.

1. Remove gauge cluster by removing plastic on dash below steering wheel.
Only 2 7mm bolts ans some tabs. Remove the upper part around the
gauges, again 2 7mm bolts and some tabs.

2. Loosen the gauge cluster. 4 7mm bolts. Pull off the plastic cover on the
front of the gauge cluster. reach under the gauge cluser and squeeze the
2 tabs that hold the shift cluster in place. Pull down. Gauge cluster will
come right out.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...y-install.html


I did not need to remove the needles.


3. Lift up the plastic on the front of the gauges and you will see the
odometer. This will pull right out.

4. Spray a good amount of electric contact cleaner into the female end of
the odometer and also the male end. Let dry.

5. Re-install in reverse order.


I had to clean mine 3 0r 4 times to make it work properly. Every time I cleaned it, it got better.

 

Thank you for this! My odometer has been on for about a week straight now. Make sure you solder that joint entirely all the way around the pin. The first time I tried I didn't solder well enough. The second time I took the cluster out it only took about 45 minutes total including a really thorough soldering. If you are having trouble pulling out the ribbon connector, pull the rest of those wires out of the back of the panel. There should be quite a bit of slack. Thanks again!

 

just want to say thank you for this thread. i do have a quick question though. i was wondering that with this issueare any of u having the door lock and chime issue along with this. it all happend at once for me just wondering. thank you yall are great

 

i just joined because i had this prob and follwed the instuctions and it worked great thanks for the info

 

I too, just registered this forum. First time ever for me to do so. Just wanted to add one more to the list of people that were helped by Greg's post, so long ago. With a magnifying glass, I could see solder was seperated from the post which is at one end of the ribbon connector, and a crack in the solder as well. De-soldered with a Solder Vacuum. Then resoldered that post. Been working fine now for 3 days. The odometer has been hit and miss since I bought this F150 a year ago. Also- how could a headlight switch get any more over-engineered & complicated? Just plain odd.
Thanks, Greg & others for passing on all this information.