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MGD thank you for the input. Made the mod and took it out. When I got on it, it threw a check engine code. P330 for that dreaded Knock Sensor 2. It has thrown it before and I had computer reprogrammed to updated code as there was a TSB out for that code on the 5.4L. Looks like it may be best to just replace both Knock Sensors?
MGD thank you for the input. Made the mod and took it out. When I got on it, it threw a check engine code. P330 for that dreaded Knock Sensor 2. It has thrown it before and I had computer reprogrammed to updated code as there was a TSB out for that code on the 5.4L. Looks like it may be best to just replace both Knock Sensors?
Hi.
All I could find on P0330 on short notice, lol. ( different year but it's all similar)
Some things you could try in there first - low-hanging fruit like clean the MAF, change the fuel filter, etc, etc, as R&R'ing knock sensors requires intake manifold removal. Could also be connector/harness related.
BTW - if you post this specific issue in the V8 Engines forum, the few gifted engine fellers like The Brewskabobinator (Jbrew) can help.
Just did this mod - the install was super easy! I took some of the advice and unhooked the negative cable from the battery (to clear the PCM). When I turned the truck on, I had no throttle response (engine started, but even flooring the gas had no effect)... Has that happened before? Luckily I found this thread and did it... Now it's up and running!
Just did this mod - the install was super easy! I took some of the advice and unhooked the negative cable from the battery (to clear the PCM). When I turned the truck on, I had no throttle response (engine started, but even flooring the gas had no effect)... Has that happened before? Luckily I found this thread and did it... Now it's up and running!
First - you did not need to disconnect the battery, as this mod does not require it, as there is nothing requiring an Adaptive/KAM reset. Besides - Adaptive is always active, and IF any correction was required ( and in this case there is none), it would have occurred by the simple act of driving the truck over time.
Second - it's purty much understood by now that the throttle recal is 110% useless on an ETC vehicle. I've purty much staked that particular vampire. It's difficult to argue with actual observed data, logic and a complete understanding of the systems involved, versus perception and placebo.
The act of the batt disconnect/reconnect was likely the root cause; another connect/disconnect cycle would have probably resulted in restoration.
Unless this isn't the whole story and you did something else as well.
Sorry to burst yer bubble. Spend some time re-reading that entire thread, the links Steve and I provided, (and my blind taste test, lol) - perhaps that will enlighten you.
I just got done doing this mod and really like it.
I went to both Lowe's and Home Depot and neither had the specific downspout as pictured. They had similar versions in 2" X 3" and 3" X 4". The 2X3 being no different than current snorkel and 3x4 being too big for the 3" coupler.
However! I lucked out and just happened to walk past the dryer vent materials area in Lowe's and they have a black 3"X3" plastic coupler there that is similar to the ABS plastic but thinner (the wall thickness of the connector). I fits PERFECTLY into the hole in the fender.
So I used the 3" ABS pipe (7.5" in length), the 3" coupler, the 4" hose clamp and the 3" dryer connector. If fit just right, I glued the ABS pieces and followed the same instructions.
I also installed a throttle body spacer today too while I had all the air intake stuff off.
Just got done taking it for spin, and it makes a noticeable difference in the performance of the truck from a stop. At times when I get on the gas getting onto the freeway or similar situations, the truck would kind of choke and struggle. Once in northern California trying to accelerate past a 18 wheeler on a steep incline, it choked and then even threw an engine light. I had to pull over, shut it off and then restart. This eliminated the warning light.
Now it accelerates great and you can tell it breathes so much better! Love it!.
2006 F150 5.4 V8 4X4 crew cab, McCoskey Throttle Body Spacer, my version of Gotts Mod.
Last edited by tfoster277; Jan 28, 2014 at 05:40 PM.
Question about mod, bought the parts to do the mod, but when attaching to intake noticed the the rubber coupler does not extend into the wheel well as far as stock part. Just wondering if this make any difference. It stops in the inner part of the wheel well instead of extending into the outer part of the wheel well like the stock part does. Will this suck to much hot engine air as opposed to fresher air from outside? Or am I worrying about nothing. I know I'm resurrecting a older thread, but would just like to know. Thanks. Truck is a 05 with 5.4.
I have a 2004 f150 and I decided to try this mod out. I just want to make sure I did this correctly so here’s a picture.
all I used was the spectre 8741 hose and a worm clamp/hose clamp. I put the second fitting on the other end. I put it on all the way so that it was almost flush with the hose and put that end in the fender. I then put the other end inside that spring poking thing. I noticed that I fit quite snuggly and decided I could put a clamp on it and see if that works. It seems to work but I’m keeping the old fender intake part thing with me just in case. Want to know if there’s anything I should be worried about and if that was the correct way of doing this. Thanks
Last edited by Tomas_M1; May 19, 2021 at 05:54 AM.
I just got around to purchasing the alternate rigid 3 inch tubing that fordmt08 used for his intake modification and it looks like it will work well installed a couple of different ways. The tubing required is made by Spectre Peformance. It is part number 8741 for the black color (8742 is Red, 8746 is Blue, 8748 is Silver) and it is called: 3" Flexible Air Duct. It is priced ~$20 and should be available at O'Reilly Auto Parts and Autozone stores. I installed it completely collapsed using one of the two connectors that come with the kit to go into the fender inlet and using the downspout connector to connect to the stock flexible section. It fits perfectly and does not require any hose clamps. I will be testing it out with my Gryphon Custom 87 performance and Custom 87 towing tunes this week. This variation completely eliminates any possibility of the downspout connector collapsing or getting sucked inside out.
The downspout connector information:
One rubber downspout connector from the plumbing section of Lowe's or Home Depot. (Lowe's item number 23455)
Thanks for the great information. I know this is an ancient thread, but it's still current for my 2006 F150. Wish you had put in a link to the @fordmt08 post you refer to, because it doesn't appear to be part of this thread.
Thanks for the great information. I know this is an ancient thread, but it's still current for my 2006 F150. Wish you had put in a link to the @fordmt08 post you refer to, because it doesn't appear to be part of this thread.
I know I’m not the person you asked but I’d still like to help you. What part are you looking for?
I know I’m not the person you asked but I’d still like to help you. What part are you looking for?
In the re-post I quoted, he called out two parts, but did not definitively say those two parts were all that was needed, and did not provide an assembly narrative as he did in the original post, which I think called for four parts and some glue. He did post an as-installed picture, so I'm sure I'll figure it out.
The tube part was at Amazon for about $20 and the downspout adapter was at Lowes for less than $5.
Thanks for the follow-up.
In the re-post I quoted, he called out two parts, but did not definitively say those two parts were all that was needed, and did not provide an assembly narrative as he did in the original post, which I think called for four parts and some glue. He did post an as-installed picture, so I'm sure I'll figure it out.
The tube part was at Amazon for about $20 and the downspout adapter was at Lowes for less than $5.
Thanks for the follow-up.
ok so the $20 part is a Spectre air duct #8741. It’s black but there are a few different colors if you want. You’ll also need a hose clamp large enough to fit the air duct. That’s really all you need. I’ll take pictures for you to see how it all comes together
Thanks, that's good information. OP's last mod to the mod uses a rubber gutter stepdown flange that he says doesn't require a clamp. Thanks for showing me how the flex hose's rubber fitting goes into the fender well. Looks like the gasket in the hole stays in, wasn't sure about that.
Thanks, that's good information. OP's last mod to the mod uses a rubber gutter stepdown flange that he says doesn't require a clamp. Thanks for showing me how the flex hose's rubber fitting goes into the fender well. Looks like the gasket in the hole stays in, wasn't sure about that.
And thanks again to OP for the parts list update.
yeah so I’d had been looking for that 4in to 3in gutter step down. I’d searched for the part number on the Lowe’s site and couldn’t find it. I went to lowes and bought a suitable substitute and a hose clamp. While it did work I found my way was better in the end and I returned the part I bought from lowes.
Last edited by Tomas_M1; Apr 28, 2022 at 02:02 AM.