The below list is just an example of some mono sub amps, and prices are from SonicElectronix. Why would one choose AMP X over AMP Y????---DirtySCREW


Alpine MRP-M500 $179.99
4 ohms: 300watts X 1
2 ohms: 500 watts X 1

JL Audio Slash v2 500/1v2 $419.99
4 ohms: 500 watts X 1

Kicker ZX750.1 (10ZX750.1) $249.99
4 ohms: 375 watts X 1
2 ohms: 750 watts X 1

Rockford Fosgate Power T500-1bd $249.99
4 ohms: 250 watts X 1
2 ohms: 400 watts X 1
1 ohm: 500 watts X 1

Alpine PDX-1.600 $349.99
4 ohms: 600 watts X 1
2 ohms: 600 watts X 1

 

Its basically about preference and reputation with amps. Stay away mostly from the cheap companies because they are most likely overrated RMS and poor quality.
All of the amps you listed are good quality except for the PDX. Heard some bad things about that entire series but it might have changed. You are best off doing some more research and figuring out how much power you need, if you will upgrade in the future and how much room you have to work with

 

Kicker ZX750.1 (10ZX750.1) $249.99
4 ohms: 375 watts X 1
2 ohms: 750 watts X 1

Rockford Fosgate Power T500-1bd $249.99
4 ohms: 250 watts X 1
2 ohms: 400 watts X 1
1 ohm: 500 watts X 1

Lets look at these two since they are the SAME price. The Kicker gives more power..The RF gives a little more flexibility as its 1ohm stable. Other than that, why choose the Kicker over the RF...or the RF over the Kicker.

I don't know how much power I need..or want. All I want is 2 10's in a Supercrew box and an 4 channel amp for my doors. I currently have an old Alpine (but it's basicly new as it has sat in a closet in the Alpine box more than it was used), but it's only 25 watts RMS X 4. I don't know if that is enough or not for my doors. If it is, great..I just save $$ money on an amp. If not, I need to get a more powerful 4 channel.
I've just been out of the car audio seen since I was a teenager..so YEARS ago! LOL. Just trying to figure out who makes quality stuff and who doesn't.
I also don't know what subs to buy as I don't know if I need shallow mount ones or if I can use regular.
Any help greatly appreciated---DirtySCREW

 

Well I would figure out what subs I would want first because if you get 2 4ohm DVC subs then you can only wiring them to 4 ohm or 1 ohm and then you would want the RF if your subs need ~250 RMS each. Check out RF's wiring wizard on their website to find out wiring configurations.
To figure out subs, find/design your box. Figure out the mounting depth and then you can figure out how big your subs can be. Depending on if you have stock speakers, your amp might be enough but I don't know.

 

I am like you. Haven't been in car audio in over 10 years.

From all the research I have done I came up with "you can spend however much you want for a sub amp".

In my case I got a really good deal and went with a Kicker 500.1 and it is more than plenty for my single 10.

The Kicker amps are serioulsy underated. The one I received had a birth sheet of 647 watts at 2 ohm. In my opinion as long as it send enough power without distortion then I am happy.

It has the basic features that I wanted. A LPF "Low Pass Filter" and an available external gain ****.

 

Thanks Langlowe! I've been looking at the RF and Kicker amps. I know "back in the day" RF had the "cheater" amps. I think my Punch 60 was like 360 watts bridged! I know it slammed the two Punch 12s I had! I'm guessing that Kicker is now the cheater brand??--LOL. I'm on a small budget, so I'll have to get whatever I can get the best deal on. And I need to figure out which subs will fit those Supercrew boxes so I can know what subs to get so I can know which Amp to get!! LOL----DirtySCREW

 

RF quality went straight down after the Punch series amps. That was the time they sold out to BestBuy.

I personally like JL. Their Slash V2 series mono amps are Class D, and also if you are hooking up to a stock radio, you can run highlevel signals right in to the amp and bypass the need for a LOC. The amps also allow you the most room for diffrent sub configurations since they are stable down to 1ohm with their rated power

 

The JL amps are nice if you plan on running them at 4 ohms. Once you start to drop the impedance on them the efficiency goes out the window and they start running really hot and draw a lot more current. The good news there is that most any sub(s) that you can run at 1 ohm you can run at 4 ohms.

There aren't really any "cheater" amps out there anymore. Some amps do a bit more than rated power, but not like the old days of IASCA ratings where the "rated" output at 4 ohms was a blatant lie to allow competitors to run a ton more power in a lower power class. Now that power classes are gone, there is no incentive for amp manufacturers to make amps that vastly exceed their ratings not to mention that most consumers want more power and and only look at the ratings. Wouldn't make sense for a company to rate a 500W amp at 50W anymore.

 

Hahaha..those were the days! One season I ran soundsteam ref. amps....I was rated at like 100watts, but was actually pushing about 2k watts

 

The Orion Concept series were the final straw. One of them was a 1600W amp rated at 2W. Funny thing is that none of the other companies complained about the rating event though everyone knew it was a lie simply because they were all doing the same thing. At that point Orion did it more as a joke than anything.

 

Yea, because of my limited budget I'm probably gonna have to go with either the Alpine MRP-M500 or a Kicker 400.1 or 500.1! My problem is I have to know what subs I'm gonna go with, which means I need to know not only the power handling capability but also the mounting depth. And I don't know either! LOL ah decisions decisions---DirtySCREW

 

this is what it means to actually "design" a system verses throwing something together while you are installing it. By actually designing a system you will save money in the long run by not buying the wrong stuff! Its like building..instead of measuing twice and cutting once.....design twice, and buy once

 

Exactly matching power handling isn't hugely important so don't get too wrapped up in that aspect. Making sure the the subs will fit and that you have the airspace for them to work properly is much more important.

 

I recently went with all powerbass amps and I'm really impressed. You might take a look at them especially their new mini amps which put out nice mid/highs.

 

Alpine is very good quality, especially out here in the summer heat of Arizona, they are very durable. However, Rockford has some of the nicest amplifiers as well ( they are usually a bit more expensive than the alpines. The kicker is alright, but I think kicker is a little overrated myself.