distance between battery & back wall?

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  #31  
Old 01-31-2008, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
i will prolly have to butt it, as i dont have a solderer. damn, now i think about that commercial with that little solderer on it...
I would do as low_e_red stated and solder/heatshrink. You can pick up one of those weller soldering irons at home depot for about $16. They actually sell non heat shrinks also, you just pull a string in them and the sinch. Electical tape is another method after soldering. Crimps will work also in a pinch.

I think you were talking about cold solder. I have seen those, but have no experience with them.

Good luck,
Devildog101
 
  #32  
Old 01-31-2008, 07:41 PM
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[QUOTE=Devildog101]I think you were talking about cold solder. I have seen those, but have no experience with them.
QUOTE]

Yeah "Cold Heat" it's called. Battery powered soldering iron. Has a replacable tip made of some material that is used up as you solder. I've used one once or twice at work...worked OK for me...didn't notice it as under poweredd for the job I was working on. Might have a harder time keeping up with the heat with jobs requiring thicker solder, or large leads...but like I said, for smaller applications like 18 GA wire you should be alright with one of those. I bought the one for work at Home Depot for around $15-$20 if it is what you are looking for.

-Dan
 
  #33  
Old 02-01-2008, 02:26 AM
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[QUOTE=Dan K]
Originally Posted by Devildog101
I think you were talking about cold solder. I have seen those, but have no experience with them.
QUOTE]

Yeah "Cold Heat" it's called. Battery powered soldering iron. Has a replacable tip made of some material that is used up as you solder. I've used one once or twice at work...worked OK for me...didn't notice it as under poweredd for the job I was working on. Might have a harder time keeping up with the heat with jobs requiring thicker solder, or large leads...but like I said, for smaller applications like 18 GA wire you should be alright with one of those. I bought the one for work at Home Depot for around $15-$20 if it is what you are looking for.

-Dan
I had a friend of mine that bought one to test out. GARBAGE, underpowered, barely got hot. NO THANKS!

I have a portable Weller butane, and a Weller gun. The shop uses a Weller station. I am also looking to buy a crack torch (for soldering 8ga+ to the terminals.)

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brand...c=037103169372
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brand...c=037103475848
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brand...c=037103001146
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brand...c=037103212290
 
  #34  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Devildog101
If the crossovers are small enough, many mount them under the armrest in the front doors. Some will agree that it might be a little hard on the crossover to do so, and will mount them to the back wall or under the dash somewhere and run wires to the speakers. About the tweeter having a little bit of wire attached, you will need to add some more wire to make it longer.

Good luck,
Devildog101


What is hard on the crossover when putting them in the arm rest under the window controls?
 
  #35  
Old 02-07-2008, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
I couldn't find it specifically in the search, so i am asking....how many feet from the battery to the back wall?

I want to make sure the amp kit i get has a long enough power cable....i think the one i am looking at is the duel amp RF kit with a 17 foot long 4 gauge power cable....anyone have an estimate?...thanks-ben

thats the kit that i bought for my screw and i had to trim the 4g cable because it was too long. i ran the wire off the positive batter terminal, through the firewall right behind the battery, along the passenger side and then under the back seat where my capacitor is and from there it splits off to the 8g stuff
 
  #36  
Old 02-08-2008, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by JCSXJ
What is hard on the crossover when putting them in the arm rest under the window controls?
Theres a huge thread on it.
 
  #37  
Old 02-08-2008, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Low_e_Red
Theres a huge thread on it.

yeah i found it after some more reading late last night. Normal opening and closing of the doors doesn't seem like a big issue to me as long as they are secured safely.
 
  #38  
Old 02-08-2008, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Low_e_Red

I had a friend of mine that bought one to test out. GARBAGE, underpowered, barely got hot. NO THANKS!
Agreed!!!! I bought one from wal-mart just to see how it worked for a couple of projects, and it was the biggest waste of money I had ever seen. I couldnt get it to work right, it was so sporadic in actually willing to do its job.
Plus it takes four AA batteries, and it goes through them quick. (Like after just 15 connections) Any soldering wire over 22 gauge drains the batteries almost immediately because it takes so much longer to melt down.

The idea behind it is cool though. It knows to turn on through the design of the tip. The tip powers on when the wire/solder connects the two parts of the tip, engaging the circuit, but it is very touchy.
Also I have heard the heating ceramic tip, (not a big suprise), is very easily chipped and broken from applying even the slightest amount of too much pressure.

For the same price, get a real soldering iron/gun. It is well worth the added power, reliability, and consistency for an extra minute or two of warming up.
 

Last edited by 04fordxlt; 02-08-2008 at 02:32 PM.
  #39  
Old 02-08-2008, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JCSXJ
yeah i found it after some more reading late last night. Normal opening and closing of the doors doesn't seem like a big issue to me as long as they are secured safely.
Ive seen many problems due to... But to each their own.
 



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