distance between battery & back wall?

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  #16  
Old 01-28-2008 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
i was either going to hook the HU up to the factory wires to the rear because i am taking out the inf 6x8's out of the front door to make room for my comps. i was gonna stick those in the back, but if yall dont think they are even worth hooking up, i ain't even gonna mess with them. no body ever sits back there except for my two little girls, and they arent even out of the car seat yet!:
Since you already have them, I would use them. It isnt hard at all to install them in the rear. You can always fade a little to the front if you find them drowning out your front soundstage.

Originally Posted by benkr16
i really wouldnt mind just letting someone else do it,but i really don't like the idea of paying someone that much money to hook it up, but i know its a skillfull art...:
Got any vacation plans for Florida??? Im only 1 hour from Disney. ROAD TRIP>>>


Devildog101
 
  #17  
Old 01-28-2008 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
my next question is how do you run the rca's thru the middle console?...do you mean under the shifter and all that stuff and into the actuall middle console? or under it somehow?
I actually removed the center console (left the shifter in) and then it was very easy to run the RCAs down from the HU and route them under where the console goes. There is an opening in the carpet near the back of the console and i just used a snake to run the wires from that opening under the carpet to come out behind the rear seats. I will warn you; if you don't have a snake you may want to go find one. You are going to need something pretty stiff to be able to push under the carpet.

Good luck.
 
  #18  
Old 01-28-2008 | 02:32 PM
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i was looking at the middle console today...the only screws/bolts i see are in the rear on both sides...are there any others?...i can kinda pull on the bottom of the console and it moves realky easy, like mabe you could run on top of the carpet under the console and then cut a slit in the carpet and run the rca's udner the carpet just a a short ways....i am getting a rockford fsgate amp kit that comes with a 20 ft rca and 18 ft amp remote lead turn on thing. i am also getting a 4 channel set of street wires rca's because i am gonan get the jl audio 500/5 (after finding one of the amps i wanted was no longer in stock) this will cost a lil more, but the wiring will be simpler. my question is this. one pair of the rca's are 20 foot, while the 4 channel set is 16.5 or so i think....is that gonna make a difference?

no, no florida plans currently...oddly enough i got married at disneyworld in may 2005.....
the closest i will be is on feb 20 whn i go to shreveport,LA to blow some dough for a friends bach party
 

Last edited by benkr16; 01-28-2008 at 02:47 PM.
  #19  
Old 01-28-2008 | 08:36 PM
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Don't knw if you ran your power lead yet, but I made it to about halfway across the rear cab wall in my 02 SCREW with about 15-17 feet of 1/0 cable by routing it directly from the battery, down the passenger side under the truck (inside PVC conduit) though a gromet in the rear passenger side of the cab. On the 02 you have to pull up the carpet thing back there and yank out the jack to get to it, but it is working out real nice for me so far...but then I'm not done yet.

hope it helps


-dan
 
  #20  
Old 01-29-2008 | 10:35 AM
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From: South Georgia
Originally Posted by benkr16
i was looking at the middle console today...the only screws/bolts i see are in the rear on both sides...are there any others?...i can kinda pull on the bottom of the console and it moves realky easy, like mabe you could run on top of the carpet under the console and then cut a slit in the carpet and run the rca's udner the carpet just a a short ways....i am getting a rockford fsgate amp kit that comes with a 20 ft rca and 18 ft amp remote lead turn on thing. i am also getting a 4 channel set of street wires rca's because i am gonan get the jl audio 500/5 (after finding one of the amps i wanted was no longer in stock) this will cost a lil more, but the wiring will be simpler. my question is this. one pair of the rca's are 20 foot, while the 4 channel set is 16.5 or so i think....is that gonna make a difference?
When I stated to remove the console, that was kind of misleading. The console is actually several difference pieces, and you only have to remove some of them to run the wires. Here is a photo for reference:



You can see from this picture that I have removed the piece that goes around the shifter and contains the cupholders. To remove this piece all you have to do is lift up the arm rest that covers the little storage bin, and pull up the piece that is not shown in my photo. It is not attached with screws or anything that you have to remove; it just pops off. Once you have done this you will remove the two screws that I have circled in yellow along with the screws in the bottom of the storage bin (not shown in the picture). After you have removed these screws then you can pull up on the area behind the armrest where the cupholders are and it should pop up. This will allow you to remove the entire storage bin assembly and the trim that goes around it. Then you can see the opening in the carpet where you can run your wires to under the rear seat.

The sides of the consoles come out separately also and if you remove them it will be easier to route your wire. Other than the screw at the rear bottom side of the console, which I am assuming are the ones you found, there are 3 others. The ones circles in yellow you have already removed, you will also remove the ones circled in green and then there is one behind another piece of trim. If you are working on the driver's side, the trim panel to the right of the gas pedal covers the final screw for the side of the console. If you grab the part of the trim furthest away from the fire wall and pull it away from the center of the truck then the retaining clips should pop loose, then pull the trim piece toward the back of the truck. Don't pull in the middle of the trim when trying to pop out the retaining clips as there is a piece that doesn't pop loose but actually has to be slid back one you pop loose the clips farthest away from the firewall. Once you remove that trim piece you will see the final screw at the bottom of the side section of the console. Remove that and the entire side of the console will come out. I know that when I was working on my truck I removed the screws circled in red, but I don't think you have to remove them in order to get the side piece off. You would be able to tell after removing the other screws if the red ones are holding it. Removing this side piece will allow you to route the wires very easily. Good luck, and hope I haven't confused you.
 
  #21  
Old 01-29-2008 | 02:45 PM
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no, actually it helps a whole lot!
when you installed your system, what parts took the longest?
and also, what was the hardest part of it all?
 
  #22  
Old 01-29-2008 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
no, actually it helps a whole lot!
when you installed your system, what parts took the longest?
and also, what was the hardest part of it all?
The part that took the longest was installing the sound dampener on the doors and running the new speaker wire/installing the door speakers. I did the front and back on the passenger side first, then the drivers side another day. The passenger side took about 6 hours and the drivers side about 5 1/2 hours. Keep in mind this was my first real install and a professional probably could have done it in much less time. It is just time consuming to remove all the trim, door panels, install sound dampener, run the wiring, solder up the crossover, install the speakers, then put it all back together. I did most of the project a little at a time as I had some time available, and so altogether it took a couple of weeks.

As far as the most difficult, really no part of it was that difficult. I have done a lot of work on both cars and electrical wiring so it was fairly simple altogether. I guess the hardest part was what you are doing now, which is planning it out and not getting ahead of yourself. This forum is great for getting quick answers to questions, and I used it a lot before I started the project and once I got into it so that I could be sure I wasn't doing something that was going to mess everything up. Best thing is to be patient, don't get in a hurry, and do it right the first time. You will be much happier to have spent a little extra time on the install and not have to worry about it, than to rush and cut corners.

Good luck, and be sure to post some pictures. Let us know if there is anything else you need help with. Most stuff I may have to defer to someone else for an answer, but if something comes up that I know about I will be glad to help out.
 
  #23  
Old 01-29-2008 | 09:09 PM
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here's another question....what are your crossovers set at for the tweets? on mine there is like -4dB,0, and +5 dB i think. that mght be wrong...what is the best to set it on?
 
  #24  
Old 01-30-2008 | 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
here's another question....what are your crossovers set at for the tweets? on mine there is like -4dB,0, and +5 dB i think. that mght be wrong...what is the best to set it on?
Which components are they??

Really it all comes down to your listening preferences. Its also prolly -3,0 and +3 dB.
 
  #25  
Old 01-30-2008 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
here's another question....what are your crossovers set at for the tweets? on mine there is like -4dB,0, and +5 dB i think. that mght be wrong...what is the best to set it on?
I have coax speakers so the tweeter is together with the woofer. It has an external crossover for the woofer and tweeter, and the tweeter can be adjusted from +0dB to +3dB only. This is an area I couldn't really make a good recommendation to the levels simply because I don't have the experience. I have mine set on +0dB only because that was my preference; no scientific reason. Plenty of other guys should be able to give you advice in this area though.
 
  #26  
Old 01-30-2008 | 10:45 AM
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my comps are the infinity kappa perfect 5.1's.

let me see, the settings are.... -4dB, +0dB, and +5dB

they are 5.25 comps....another thing i wanted to ask, was i noticed that a lot of guys have their crossovers mounted on the back wall with their amps...the tweeters already have a small bit of speaker wire attached to them, like the crossovers are to be mounted to the door or something. are yall just adding more speaker to the or what?
 
  #27  
Old 01-30-2008 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
another thing i wanted to ask, was i noticed that a lot of guys have their crossovers mounted on the back wall with their amps...the tweeters already have a small bit of speaker wire attached to them, like the crossovers are to be mounted to the door or something. are yall just adding more speaker to the or what?
If the crossovers are small enough, many mount them under the armrest in the front doors. Some will agree that it might be a little hard on the crossover to do so, and will mount them to the back wall or under the dash somewhere and run wires to the speakers. About the tweeter having a little bit of wire attached, you will need to add some more wire to make it longer.

Good luck,
Devildog101
 

Last edited by Devildog101; 01-31-2008 at 11:04 AM.
  #28  
Old 01-31-2008 | 12:44 PM
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what is the best way to splice into the tweeter speaker wire? do i need to use the same size speaker wire, or does it just have to be close? i looks like 18 gauge or so. maybe smaller.
 
  #29  
Old 01-31-2008 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by benkr16
what is the best way to splice into the tweeter speaker wire? do i need to use the same size speaker wire, or does it just have to be close? i looks like 18 gauge or so. maybe smaller.
Just add more. Solder/heatshrink, solder/e-tape, butt splice, t&t. Its on you for that. I recommend the 1st 2.
 
  #30  
Old 01-31-2008 | 01:27 PM
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i will prolly have to butt it, as i dont have a solderer. damn, now i think about that commercial with that little solderer on it...
 


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