I'm posting in this section in an attempt to get more views and possibly more replies. Please forgive.

Here's where I'm at:

Spent $1200 having my ac compressor, etc replaced including labor.

Brand is tough one. I'm told it has a lifetime warranty. Oe parts weren't available and my truck wasn't driveable so I had to go that route. Right away it's making a whining sound.

A week later they replace with another brand new tough one compressor and do the same thing again. Again, same whining sound.

Research shows me a lot are complaining about this sound from this brand compressor.

Shop looks into it, they're now told by their parts company that in order for it to have a lifetime warranty, the receiver/ dryer and orifice tube need to be replaced as well. When they were asked if the unit had a lifetime warranty the first time, the parts company never mentioned this.

Anyway, to have those replaced including labor, it's another $300

The other option they gave me was to go with a reman oe unit with a 3 year warranty. That's also an additional $300.

They said because their parts company is only covering half of their warranty labor costs, they can't do anything else for me price wise.

My comment, I'm already in $1200 and expected to have everything working. Now it's supposed to cost me another $300 to have things working correctly.

I feel I'm getting screwed. What are everyone's thoughts and recommendations? Ac currently blows cold, but makes a whining sound as the engine revs. Not during idle or cruise.

Advice is appreciated.

 

You say compressor, etc.....what would the etc have been for? Charging?
Or did they replace a lot more?

I see new compressors at around $350. How much could the compressor have cost?
You mean all the rest was for labor?
I am not saying that you got ripped off, but the price seems awful high?
I would not want the whine, period! Especially for what you paid.

And now another $300 to fix it again!
I would be pissed off.

 

The etc would be recharge, system evac, labor.

I do most of my work myself and use rock auto for parts. I know how cheap parts are. However, sure, you go to a store and could easily pay $350 for a compressor. However, shops mark up prices and they mark then up A LOT. Try around 60% increase as that's how they make a lot of their money. when you're not doing your own work, it's just something to be expected.

Unfortunately, most can't do ac work at home. I definitely would if I could.

I don't think I got ripped off. I think paying an extra $300 would start to get into that territory especially since the parts store gave the wrong info to the shop. That shouldn't be my fault or on my dime.

Bottom line, I'm $1200 in with parts and labor. $70 of that included a new serpentine belt. I wish I had just bought one of those for $20 and did it myself as I've changed them many times and it's easy. I just bit the bullet and let them do that while they were at it.

I guess I'm unsure which direction to go in. $300 for a new receiver/dryer and orifice tube (that's only because the maker of the compressor is now stating they only offer a lifetime warranty if those two parts are also replaced with the compressor, not that they will even verify mine are faulty) or $300 to get an oe compressor in there

I was told "who knows if your old compressor damaged other parts causing the current whine?" I said "true, but do you think throwing parts at it is really the best way to fix something?" He did not have an answer for that.

Ugh.

 

I just told you what I thought.
Most of the shops around here charge $45/50 bucks an hour for labor.
At that rate $50 bucks per hour that would have been 14 hours of labor.
$1200- $500 (parts?) = $700 left for labor, divided by $50 per hour =14 hours.

It took them 14 hours? I doubt it.

When an A/C compressor fails in an A/C system, it is likely that more than one component will be affected as everything inside the system is connected.
And when you install a new compressor I think the drier and the orifice should have been changed along with it.

I know what you mean by the markup. I know you should have changed the belt yourself, you knew that too. I know what you mean by it is just easier to tell them to throw one on, but you knew you would get banged for it in the end.

On my 99 pickup I only added 2 cans since I have had it, knock on wood it is still working fine. I do have a problem with my blend door, but I found a MacGyver fix for it.

I once had a 77 cab over Peterbilt truck, back in 1996 (prices a bit cheaper) I replaced everything on the AC, dryer bottle, hoses, compressor, condenser, and even the fans and switches. I did it myself all for around $700 in parts. The parts are a lot bigger than a pickup trucks. It used the old R12 refrigerant fluid. At the time prices were rising as the 134 fluid was in use and the R12 was being fazed out. I bought a 30 lb cylinder for a $100, at the time the prices were up around $225 for a 30 lb. I filled the new system and still have the rest.
I sold the truck in 1999. At one point the R12 was up over $500 for a 30 lb!

I would go for the new orifice tube and dryer, what are you going to do at this point? $1200 plus $300 = $1500.

I think they should have mentioned something about the tube and dryer in the first place!

If it was me I would feel like I got ripped off!
I am getting steamed up just typing about it and it is your wallet that is effected.

Lets see what others say.
By the way did they give you any kind of estimate before they did the work?

 

I think we're on the same page, and I appreciate your time. Also, just so you know, my "ugh" wasn't directed toward you at all, just the frustration of my situation, you know?

Here's the breakdown $$ wise. Around here, labor is $80-$90 per hour. Sucks, I know. Ac compressor and clutch was over $600 so obviously a huge mark up there. Serpentine belt was $70 (we both know I should have done that one myself) and then freon, and besides that, I'd have to look at my bill. They did quote me at $1180 before doing the work. The ford dealer was even more.

As far as my compressor taking out other parts with it, it's very possible and I'd even read that other parts should be replaced. However, they said all would be fine and that wasn't needed.

Part of me agrees going with a new receiver/dryer and orifice tube (they'd also be putting in a 3rd new compressor and re doing everything), the other part of me thinks this aftermarket "tough one" compressor is just junk (I've read terrible reviews and a lot of people complain of a while) so I could spend another $300 and still have the same issue.

The other option was going with a reman motorcraft compressor and not replacing the receiver/dryer and orifice tube. If I went with that, I could still find the receiver/dryer and orifice tube need to be replaced and at that point is spend another $300 making me total $600 extra. There is also a chance with my luck the reman motorcraft compressor could have issues as its reman and not brand new.

See my confusion, frustration and need for advice? Haha. Thanks for your time, I do appreciate it and for also taking time out of your day to read these long posts!

 

If the compressor and the replacement are noisy and it shouldn't be, you shouldn't have to pay a dime for it to be fixed.
In the future don't go to that shop.

 

Anytime a compressor is replaced, or even if the system is opened up, the orifice tube needs to be replaced. The shop should have known this. It is also their responsibility to know the conditions of the warranty of the parts that they choose. That's why you pay them. I would be very upset at this point.
That being said, I would offer to pay them for the parts needed, but not the labor. If and when they refuse to cover labor, I would contact the Better Business Bureau and file a complaint. They sold you a product with a warranty, but failed to meet the warranty requirements.

 

That's very sound advice. Thank you, I couldn't agree more.

 

If it's the compressor whining, I'm wondering if it's shimmed correctly.

 

Any things possible. And even so, I doubt they'd own up to it. I don't believe it's something I can check myself.

Also, as I said, I did a Google search on the "tough one" new aftermarket compressors and many people complained about the same whining sound.

 

I hear you, I feel for you.
Me, I would be mad.

They recommend, Anytime the A/C system is opened for repair, the receiver/dryer should be replaced.
The dryer keeps water out of the system, water can kill the compressor.
They also recommend, Anytime the A/C system is opened for repair, the accumulator should be replaced.
It filters out contaminants Contaminants can lead to accelerated parts wear and damaging corrosion.
If there’s any moisture present in your compressor, it can mix with the Refrigerant and create very damaging corrosive acids.
An accumulator is similar to a receiver-dryer but only found on vehicles with an orifice tube. If you have an accumulator, that means you don’t have a thermal expansion valve.

If too much or too little refrigerant enters the evaporator, you could have a big problem on your hands. The proper function of the thermal expansion valve or orifice tube is crucial for successful A/C system operation.

I copy and pasted bits and pieces from here if you want to read the whole thing,
http://www.firestonecompleteautocare...-your-cars-ac/

It is a fairly good writeup explaining all. I know just enough to be dangerous. It is easier copying and pasting then typing out some of the main points.

I think the "shop" should have explained some of this (or all of it)with you beforehand. They should know what needs to be done, do they specialize in AC? Or is it just a general all around repair shop?
So your saying now it will be $600 on top of the $1200?

 

In the Ford shop manual it says that you do not have to replace the dryer/accumulator every time you open up the system. I like you, always thought that it was required.

 

I know in my old Peterbilt, if you take the new dryer out of the box and take the plugs off you better get the hoses on fairly quick. As soon as you open the dryer up it starts sucking in humidity, ( I was told back then ) so you don't want to take it off and leave it sitting around opened for long.
So I assumed that any opened AC system that the dryer would start sucking in moister. Now that was on a 77 truck, maybe the new systems have a check valve in them so that doesn't happen?
I think if you are replacing a compressor, you might as well go with the other parts too?
I will have to look at my manual.

 

If I replaced my compressor, I would replace the dryer/reservoir too, just because.

And I think I do need to replace my compressor. My system is leaking faster than it used to and I think it is the compressor seal doing the leaking. I need to check it out and determine exactly where the leak is. It's been leaking a little since I bought it in 2009. So far I just add a couple cans of refrigerant every year. This year I've had to add 2 cans twice. It's getting about time to fix it. I bought a case of 12 cans of refrigerant from Sam's Club for $48 so it's easy just to keep adding. I bought a vacuum pump a while back that I haven't used yet mainly for this job.

 

My Haynes manual says,
When any major AC component (compressor, condenser, evaporator) is replaced, or the system has been apart for any length of time, the accumulator/drier must be replaced.
I also thought and was told this should be done?

I know the Haynes is not the best manual.
Roadie, The Ford shop manual?
Where does one get one of these?
Can you buy one?
PDF download online anywhere?