Front Lower Ball Joint Recommedations
Front Lower Ball Joint Recommedations
Hello All,
I have a 2006 Ford 150 Harley Davidson Edition (5.4 L, 4x4). I recently failed my state inspection due to the front lower ball joints needing to be replaced. I have received several quotes from dealerships and have narrowed it down to two.
Both have a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty.
I was told that Moog ball joints are better than the Ford OEM ball joints. Is that true? Is a frontend alignment needed after installing new ball joints? Those are the two items that are hindering my decision.
What are you thoughts?
Thanks,
Donald
I have a 2006 Ford 150 Harley Davidson Edition (5.4 L, 4x4). I recently failed my state inspection due to the front lower ball joints needing to be replaced. I have received several quotes from dealerships and have narrowed it down to two.
Both have a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty.
I was told that Moog ball joints are better than the Ford OEM ball joints. Is that true? Is a frontend alignment needed after installing new ball joints? Those are the two items that are hindering my decision.
What are you thoughts?
Thanks,
Donald
Last year I paid $650 some to have Moog lower ball joints pressed into the OEM control arms, Moog upper control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, 4 new tires, and alignment. Granded that does not include the parts costs, I pieced it all together myself. Basically, I spend $650 for labor to install everything, and $70 of that was the alignment so I feel you are being way overcharged.
Here is the Moog ball joint.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...od=MOOG-K80149
I would buy this kit and re-update your suspension fittings.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...PackageDeal161
You might find the parts on SummitRacing at a lower price also.
Here is the Moog ball joint.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...od=MOOG-K80149
I would buy this kit and re-update your suspension fittings.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...PackageDeal161
You might find the parts on SummitRacing at a lower price also.
Hello All,
I have a 2006 Ford 150 Harley Davidson Edition (5.4 L, 4x4). I recently failed my state inspection due to the front lower ball joints needing to be replaced. I have received several quotes from dealerships and have narrowed it down to two.
Both have a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty.
I was told that Moog ball joints are better than the Ford OEM ball joints. Is that true? Is a frontend alignment needed after installing new ball joints? Those are the two items that are hindering my decision.
What are you thoughts?
Thanks,
Donald
I have a 2006 Ford 150 Harley Davidson Edition (5.4 L, 4x4). I recently failed my state inspection due to the front lower ball joints needing to be replaced. I have received several quotes from dealerships and have narrowed it down to two.
Both have a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty.
I was told that Moog ball joints are better than the Ford OEM ball joints. Is that true? Is a frontend alignment needed after installing new ball joints? Those are the two items that are hindering my decision.
What are you thoughts?
Thanks,
Donald
I personally don't think the Moogs are better than FoMoCo as long as the dealership really used "FoMoCo" stuff. I know the Moogs have fittings but there is also the chance to introduce dirt into the otherwise sealed ball and joint area accelerating wear ..... or of putting too much grease in and rupturing boots and allowing water and dirt in that way. The sealed OEM ball joints last a damn long time usually, they don't get dirt pumped in or seals ruptured. The sealed ball joints also are made differently inside since they don't get extra grease.
I also know that not all parts put on at a Ford dealership are Ford parts, I know that sometimes they get parts from the same parts stores as other shops.
Having said all that, the Moogs will do a great job, just go easy with the grease gun.
Over on that side of the mountain you are competing with the rest of the bedrooms of NoVa. You might want to call Marlow Ford in Luray and get a quote first.
I personally don't think the Moogs are better than FoMoCo as long as the dealership really used "FoMoCo" stuff. I know the Moogs have fittings but there is also the chance to introduce dirt into the otherwise sealed ball and joint area accelerating wear ..... or of putting too much grease in and rupturing boots and allowing water and dirt in that way. The sealed OEM ball joints last a damn long time usually, they don't get dirt pumped in or seals ruptured. The sealed ball joints also are made differently inside since they don't get extra grease.
I also know that not all parts put on at a Ford dealership are Ford parts, I know that sometimes they get parts from the same parts stores as other shops.
Having said all that, the Moogs will do a great job, just go easy with the grease gun.
I personally don't think the Moogs are better than FoMoCo as long as the dealership really used "FoMoCo" stuff. I know the Moogs have fittings but there is also the chance to introduce dirt into the otherwise sealed ball and joint area accelerating wear ..... or of putting too much grease in and rupturing boots and allowing water and dirt in that way. The sealed OEM ball joints last a damn long time usually, they don't get dirt pumped in or seals ruptured. The sealed ball joints also are made differently inside since they don't get extra grease.
I also know that not all parts put on at a Ford dealership are Ford parts, I know that sometimes they get parts from the same parts stores as other shops.
Having said all that, the Moogs will do a great job, just go easy with the grease gun.
Thanks for your help!
Donald
Last year I paid $650 some to have Moog lower ball joints pressed into the OEM control arms, Moog upper control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, 4 new tires, and alignment. Granded that does not include the parts costs, I pieced it all together myself. Basically, I spend $650 for labor to install everything, and $70 of that was the alignment so I feel you are being way overcharged.
Here is the Moog ball joint.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...od=MOOG-K80149
I would buy this kit and re-update your suspension fittings.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...PackageDeal161
You might find the parts on SummitRacing at a lower price also.
Here is the Moog ball joint.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...od=MOOG-K80149
I would buy this kit and re-update your suspension fittings.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...PackageDeal161
You might find the parts on SummitRacing at a lower price also.
Thanks,
Donald
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Question for you, why do you want to go with the sealed units? As everyone said, the Moog problem solvers are great. They'll also last much longer than the sealed unit IF you grease them regularly. 1-2 pumps every oil change, and they'll probably be good as long as you have the truck.
If you want to save a lot of cash, rent a ball joint press from autozone and do it in your driveway. I'm not too mechanically inclined, but I've done my coilovers, upper and lowers BJs and will soon do inner and outer tierods. It's not hard with the help of youtube, you save a lot and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Just a thought. Hell, I did my rear shocks in a carport with a cheap wrench and didn't remove the wheels. Though, rear shocks on our trucks are easier than doing an oil change. Ha
Ps read tbear853's response after postibg this, it also does make sense if you don't want the hassle of greasing them or worry about over greasing. I personally like to be able to grease them.
If you want to save a lot of cash, rent a ball joint press from autozone and do it in your driveway. I'm not too mechanically inclined, but I've done my coilovers, upper and lowers BJs and will soon do inner and outer tierods. It's not hard with the help of youtube, you save a lot and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Just a thought. Hell, I did my rear shocks in a carport with a cheap wrench and didn't remove the wheels. Though, rear shocks on our trucks are easier than doing an oil change. Ha
Ps read tbear853's response after postibg this, it also does make sense if you don't want the hassle of greasing them or worry about over greasing. I personally like to be able to grease them.
Last edited by 2008_XL; Dec 14, 2014 at 02:58 PM.
Question for you, why do you want to go with the sealed units? As everyone said, the Moog problem solvers are great. They'll also last much longer than the sealed unit IF you grease them regularly. 1-2 pumps every oil change, and they'll probably be good as long as you have the truck.
If you want to save a lot of cash, rent a ball joint press from autozone and do it in your driveway. I'm not too mechanically inclined, but I've done my coilovers, upper and lowers BJs and will soon do inner and outer tierods. It's not hard with the help of youtube, you save a lot and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Just a thought. Hell, I did my rear shocks in a carport with a cheap wrench and didn't remove the wheels. Though, rear shocks on our trucks are easier than doing an oil change. Ha
Ps read tbear853's response after postibg this, it also does make sense if you don't want the hassle of greasing them or worry about over greasing. I personally like to be able to grease them.
If you want to save a lot of cash, rent a ball joint press from autozone and do it in your driveway. I'm not too mechanically inclined, but I've done my coilovers, upper and lowers BJs and will soon do inner and outer tierods. It's not hard with the help of youtube, you save a lot and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Just a thought. Hell, I did my rear shocks in a carport with a cheap wrench and didn't remove the wheels. Though, rear shocks on our trucks are easier than doing an oil change. Ha
Ps read tbear853's response after postibg this, it also does make sense if you don't want the hassle of greasing them or worry about over greasing. I personally like to be able to grease them.
Also, I don't have a lot of cash and that's is why I want to get the best ball joints installed. I don't want to have to worry about ball joints for many years to come.
Thanks,
Donald
Thanks for the information. I do have some questions. Why would you want to be able to grease the ball joints? Is it true that the Ford OEM ball joints are sealed? thbear853 mentioned that the seal ball joints would last a long time. Therefore, the Ford OEM ball joints would last a long time.
Also, I don't have a lot of cash and that's is why I want to get the best ball joints installed. I don't want to have to worry about ball joints for many years to come.
Thanks,
Donald
Also, I don't have a lot of cash and that's is why I want to get the best ball joints installed. I don't want to have to worry about ball joints for many years to come.
Thanks,
Donald
I got 70k out of my oe upper bjs before they were creaking and loose. At that time my truck was stock and never had been off-road. I feel if had had moogs and could had greased them, I may have gotten more life.
If you change your own oil, and do all of your own maintenance, go with the greasable joints. If you take it to get everything serviced, then you might as well get the sealed units and roll with it. I'm not knocking you down but I just feel thats the way to be. DbHost on here has greasable joints, and when he went in to wherever he goes for a service, they did not grease his ball joints ( he requested so ). He caught it when he got home and double checked things. Mechanics/techs these days ( the young folks my age I should say ) rely on non-serviceable parts for easier work load, and the ability to charge more for an entire unit when the unit is 5x easier to replace. So at least the sealed non-serviceable unit will not get missed on maintenance.
I suppose it all depends on who you ask. To motorcraft oe parts will be good, but since you can't grease them, they will dry up over time. With the Moog version, as long as you don't over grease and break the boot, you can keep adding fresh grease. When the new grease is added, it pushes the old grease and any contaminates out of the bottom. That's why you'd want a grease able ball joint, so they'll never dry out.
I got 70k out of my oe upper bjs before they were creaking and loose. At that time my truck was stock and never had been off-road. I feel if had had moogs and could had greased them, I may have gotten more life.
I got 70k out of my oe upper bjs before they were creaking and loose. At that time my truck was stock and never had been off-road. I feel if had had moogs and could had greased them, I may have gotten more life.
Thanks for the explanation. Now I understand the benefit of installing a non-sealable ball joint. Regarding the Ford OEM ball joint, I was able to get approximately 135K miles out of them before they went bad. My truck, too, is stock and has never really been off road. She is more of a commuting truck. I actually love driving my truck more than my other cars.
Also, I like to do as much maintenance and repair work as I possibly can (thanks YouTube). I change my oil, rotate my tires, etc., etc.; however, I am a little worried about greasing the Moog ball joints. Is it really that easy to grease those joints? How do you ensure that you don't over grease the joints?
Thanks again for the information.
Donald
Thanks,
Donald
If you change your own oil, and do all of your own maintenance, go with the greasable joints. If you take it to get everything serviced, then you might as well get the sealed units and roll with it. I'm not knocking you down but I just feel thats the way to be. DbHost on here has greasable joints, and when he went in to wherever he goes for a service, they did not grease his ball joints ( he requested so ). He caught it when he got home and double checked things. Mechanics/techs these days ( the young folks my age I should say ) rely on non-serviceable parts for easier work load, and the ability to charge more for an entire unit when the unit is 5x easier to replace. So at least the sealed non-serviceable unit will not get missed on maintenance.
Based on all of the information, I am going to go with Piedmont's quote for $451 which includes the Moog non-sealable ball joints. I guess I should get an alignment as well. My grand total should be $551.
Thanks everyone for you help and Merry Christmas!
Donald






