Well any advice will be appreciated. Today I noticed that my efans were not on after I shut off my ignition. I drive a 2004 5.4L with dual 16" fans and a Hayden controller. So far, I have checked all wires, fuses, grounds and relay. I replaced the relay and it didnt fix my problem. Then I hard wired the fans to battery and they turned on as normal. I noticed that the HOT wire off the battery near my inline fuse showed meltage on both sides. So i replaced that fuses too. (even though it was still good)
What's next guys? Buy a new controller. It's not hot where I am so I havent shown any overheating.
Oh I also tried with A/C on to engage fans and no GO. Im kinda worried cause I live in an area where traffic is an everyday issue so Im not trying to get stuck in that. It will def. overheat in bumper to bumper traffic.

 

This is exactly why I left my stock fan alone.

Sounds like the controller (the only thing you haven't changed), but I would also run a larger gauge wire to replace the one that melted. Too many amps for what ever gauge wire your running, or you have a loose connection and or short causing the excessive heat.

What you really need to do is use a test light to see at what point in the circuit voltage dropped out. This will show exactly where the problem is. If you don't have power coming out of the control, but it is showing that the controller is receiving a signal to power the fans, then there is your problem. The controller.

 

Probably the controller.....but verify that the toasted looking wire has continuity from one end to the other.....maybe a thicker wire is needed

 

I used whatever cables the kit provided. I think theyre 18 or 16 AWG. I'll def. try that (avfrog). Maybe next go with a FAL or troyer controller.

 

^ Just because it came with the kit doesn't mean it is not heavy enough. Remember, your running 2 16" fans, not just 1. Every application is different.

 

True. I'll have to wait till this hurricane passes to work on it.

 

Make sure you double check ALL of your connections too. A loose connection can arc causing the circuit to heat up.

 

Is it common for a controller to go bad? I'm just trying to find the underlying problem. If the inline fuse is same amperage as the relay on the controller. Wouldnt the fuse and relay go bad first?

 

I ask alot of ?'s cause electrical issues are my kryptonite...

 

I had my hayden controller mounted in the cab under my dash and it fried itself inside out. May have been the amperage the fans pull. I now use a oreilly relay for like $8. My fans come on when the ignition is turned to on position, and I have a switch to manually shut them off whenever I want. This has worked flawlessly for about 8 months, with extreme conditions outside in Houston and offroading on the beach in 100 degree plus temps. Just a thought/suggestion for the controller.

Sounds like you need to run a thicker wire as well, and maybe reroute it so its not in so much of a hot spot. Or mount the inline fuse in the cab if possible.

Do you have a volt meter to check everything with? Easiest way to find power supply problems, and verify or deny if the controller is good or not.
Good luck

 

Not necessarily. The electronics can go on the controller. You need to check for voltage before you go any further.

 

Blackout07 I run a rocker cut off switch too. Good for when you wanna chill in truck after turning her off and not running battery down. Yes I do have a volt meter but honestly do not know how to use it really.
Im just trying to figure out if I replace to controller will I see this same problem down the road. I will upgrade the wires to a thicker gauge and try to relocate to fuse and relay to the cab.
Thanks for all the input guys!

 

Ive had some strange issues with my troyer efans. Followed the instructions to a T, and in a few months completely melted 2 30 amp fuses. replaced them and now the high speed fan controller is dead. of course i find this out at 5:30pm on a friday the weekend of a hurricane. At least the fans are powerful enough to cool the truck individually.

 

This ^^^

No not really. The fuse would go if there is a short. The fact that you have melted wires means you have a high resistance in that area. Replace the wire.

Troyer's controllers are crap.

OP: replace the problem wire and take a DMM and test each input/output for voltage (make sure your key is on and A/C is selected)

 

So new larger wires and a controller?