Plans for 2007 Screw 4x4...?!
Plans for 2007 Screw 4x4...?!
OK, after a lot of looking around this site I think I may have an idea of what I want to do to my truck.
I have a 2007 Screw Lariat 4x4 with the 20" wheels. My Pirellis are ready to be replaced and here is what I was thinking about doing:
Install a 2" Autospring Level Kit
Replace the Pirellis with 275/60R20 Cooper Zeon LTZs on the stock 20" wheel
I don't think I will have any issues with this tire size and leveling kit combo but thought it might be a good idea to throw it out there to get comments.
Thanks!
I have a 2007 Screw Lariat 4x4 with the 20" wheels. My Pirellis are ready to be replaced and here is what I was thinking about doing:
Install a 2" Autospring Level Kit
Replace the Pirellis with 275/60R20 Cooper Zeon LTZs on the stock 20" wheel
I don't think I will have any issues with this tire size and leveling kit combo but thought it might be a good idea to throw it out there to get comments.
Thanks!
sounds like a plan. i like my as 1.5 though, the fronts a little bit lower than the rear, i think sometimes the 2 inch kits on the 06-08 trucks make the front look a tad too high. your truck should measure 2 inches exactly lower in the front, if you get any tounge weight or payload youd be nose up. my as 1.5 gave me 1.75 inches.
but the 2 inch kits do sit nice.
but the 2 inch kits do sit nice.
for now im running the stock 32s. search my name for my threads, ive made a couple of threads with pics in them. i plan on getting 305/65/18 bfg at kos, which is about a 33.7 inch tire. ive read that with a leveling kit and 35s you can run into rubbing when crossing ditches or flexing any more than a little bit. so if you plan on wheeling it id stay close to a 33. plus if you dont have a programmer, you cant correct what the computer thinks the tire size is. some guys get 35s and no tuner, and the trans shifts erratically because it doesnet know exacly how fast the tires are spinning, since there spinning slower than stock, because the wheels are bigger.
and you have to remember that 35s are a much heavier tire than a 33, which might effect passing power, ect. imo if you drive your truck and dont want to worry about how it shifts, or loss of power or rubbing, stay with 33's.
also when looking at tire sizes, if you find some that are in metric (xxx/xx/Rxx) format, go to a place such as here
http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html
and put the tire size in, and hit convert metric to inches. then you can see what the dimensions of each tire is.
rule of thumb for our trucks with stock back spacing wheels and a leveling kit on a 4wd truck is no wider than 12.5, some agressive mud tires with huge knobby treads on the side will rub, so definatly stick with 12.5 or smaller for width. that equates to about a 325 width (first part of the metric equation)
and no taller than 35s. but like i said if you flex it out, 35s will hang up more.
if you want to run 35s for sure, id suggest looking into a 3 inch autospring rear block ( to raise the rear 1 inch or so) and then doing a 2.5 kit instead of a 1.5 kit. that gives you an extra inch of height all the way around the truck
and you have to remember that 35s are a much heavier tire than a 33, which might effect passing power, ect. imo if you drive your truck and dont want to worry about how it shifts, or loss of power or rubbing, stay with 33's.
also when looking at tire sizes, if you find some that are in metric (xxx/xx/Rxx) format, go to a place such as here
http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html
and put the tire size in, and hit convert metric to inches. then you can see what the dimensions of each tire is.
rule of thumb for our trucks with stock back spacing wheels and a leveling kit on a 4wd truck is no wider than 12.5, some agressive mud tires with huge knobby treads on the side will rub, so definatly stick with 12.5 or smaller for width. that equates to about a 325 width (first part of the metric equation)
and no taller than 35s. but like i said if you flex it out, 35s will hang up more.
if you want to run 35s for sure, id suggest looking into a 3 inch autospring rear block ( to raise the rear 1 inch or so) and then doing a 2.5 kit instead of a 1.5 kit. that gives you an extra inch of height all the way around the truck
Last edited by fivespeedsteed; Jan 18, 2011 at 05:52 PM.
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your welcome. just take measurements of your truck from ground to fender lip, through the center of the wheel your truck stock should measure 39 inches rear, and 37 front, if you read about as leveling kit installs most people get another 1/4 inch over what they advertise, so to me id rather be a 1/4 inch lower in the front than a 1/4 inch higher. i like my truck with a 1.5, i hate it when they are higher in the front than the rear. some parking spots are angled so i can tell that the fronts lower than the rear, but 90 percent of the time it looks like its sitting perfectly level. a 2 inch kit would probably be perfect, but i pull my jetski allot,and want to be able to carry loads without being too nose high.
also the bigger kit you put on the front puts more stress on the upper balljoint, and the cv axles, so a 1.5 will have less problems down the road in my opinion than a truck with 2.5 kits. even though theres guys on here with 3 inch kits that have no problems.
also these kits take away droop from the front suspension, with my 1.5 as when i jack the truck up, the upper balljoint will come to a rest on the coil. its pretty close to it when its on the ground too, i feel like a 2.5 kit would hit the coil quite often when flexing or so.
again just my .02 just figure out what you want your stance to be then go from there.
also the bigger kit you put on the front puts more stress on the upper balljoint, and the cv axles, so a 1.5 will have less problems down the road in my opinion than a truck with 2.5 kits. even though theres guys on here with 3 inch kits that have no problems.
also these kits take away droop from the front suspension, with my 1.5 as when i jack the truck up, the upper balljoint will come to a rest on the coil. its pretty close to it when its on the ground too, i feel like a 2.5 kit would hit the coil quite often when flexing or so.
again just my .02 just figure out what you want your stance to be then go from there.
I run 275/65/20 BFG's A/T's on my 07 Screw. No level kit and no rubbing.
Side note, do you have any sound clips of your exhuast? I have your exact truck, down to the 6.5 bed even, just a different color. I've been thinking about that exhaust for a while. Do you have rear exit or side?
Side note, do you have any sound clips of your exhuast? I have your exact truck, down to the 6.5 bed even, just a different color. I've been thinking about that exhaust for a while. Do you have rear exit or side?
I run 275/65/20 BFG's A/T's on my 07 Screw. No level kit and no rubbing.
Side note, do you have any sound clips of your exhuast? I have your exact truck, down to the 6.5 bed even, just a different color. I've been thinking about that exhaust for a while. Do you have rear exit or side?
Side note, do you have any sound clips of your exhuast? I have your exact truck, down to the 6.5 bed even, just a different color. I've been thinking about that exhaust for a while. Do you have rear exit or side?
I did quite a bit of research on the exhuast before going with the Roush off road one; most of my research was done here as well as listening to clips on you tube.
So you run a 34" tire with no level kit and no rubbing? I was thinking that 33" would be the max to run with no level and no rubbing.
That is correct, just a hair over 34", I think it equals out to a 34.01, but no level kit and no rubbing. But it's VERY close. I would think, with enough speed/turning angle/bump, I'd rub the front lower spoiler.



