Truck shuttering...
The pinion angle is set with a 4* shim right now... I had it checked twice this year already (didn't trust myself to get it right)... Once when i installed the springs, and again when I had to pull leafs to get it to the correct ride height. I certainly didn't think it had too much (I could be very wrong), maybe it doesn't have enough..?
Here are some quick pics I snagged tonight.. (please disregard the gunk, I don't clean when its cold
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I did grease the U-Joints while I had the driveshaft off, and didn't really clean up the front tail shaft area, plus as mentioned before the rear pinion seal is leaking again after today..
Last edited by FX4life; Dec 1, 2010 at 01:53 AM.
How would you guys go about addressing the angle off the tailshaft..? double cardan joint? I had explored the double cardan option earlier this year, and the driveline shop said It wasn't needed, especially after shimming the rear end..
Is this a possible source of my shutter/vibration? Something worn out finally because of the angle? I honestly had not had much trouble with the driveline at all before I had it shimmed this year, now that its been shimmed I have nothing but trouble..
Last edited by FX4life; Dec 1, 2010 at 04:28 PM.
I am a new guy to this site just bought my 07 f150 and it is doing this same exact thing I have to take it back to the dealer but am researching for firepower, I read a tsb talking about pinion angle right now I can kind of control it shuttering with my throttle pedal keeping it smooth but still want this fixed right the first time. About to be moving to montana and need to make sure my truck is good to go. On another note it seems only like when its in overdrive and you step on the gas aggressively that it does this no other gears everything else is smooth as silk so could it be the lockout in the tranny or is it just the driveshaft binding any opinion will be greatly appreciated as I am taking it back in next week. Thanks Scott
well the nose of the diff looks a little high, just eyeballing, the nose should be slightly down from straight inline with the driveshaft because the pinion gear will have the nature to "climb" up the ring gear as you apply power to it, so you may actually be going up past level when you give it gas.
As for the tailshaft end of the driveshaft, looks very steep. Looks like you need to drop the tbox/trans down or doing the double cardan joint like you're talking about doing.
-Patrick
As for the tailshaft end of the driveshaft, looks very steep. Looks like you need to drop the tbox/trans down or doing the double cardan joint like you're talking about doing.
-Patrick
well the nose of the diff looks a little high, just eyeballing, the nose should be slightly down from straight inline with the driveshaft because the pinion gear will have the nature to "climb" up the ring gear as you apply power to it, so you may actually be going up past level when you give it gas.
As for the tailshaft end of the driveshaft, looks very steep. Looks like you need to drop the tbox/trans down or doing the double cardan joint like you're talking about doing.
-Patrick
As for the tailshaft end of the driveshaft, looks very steep. Looks like you need to drop the tbox/trans down or doing the double cardan joint like you're talking about doing.
-Patrick
So, what shim would you say? I'm no expert at this rear diff/gears/angles/driveline garbage
If I went and got a 2.5* shim, would you say that might drop it too much? I'm sure as hell not paying the JA's I did before to mess with it again if its wrong... just reaffirms why I would rather do everything myself, but don't have the tool ability/know how to..Assuming this guy and his site know what they are talking about would I possibly just be looking at needing a double cardan joint? I can't wrap my head around why he wants them in-line after what you said patrick, unless the joint takes the rise? http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
I just need an alignment machine, a couple of vehicle lifts, all the tools in a snap-on truck, etc, etc... I'd be more than happy to gain the knowledge then
Last edited by FX4life; Dec 1, 2010 at 11:38 PM.
yah the tool i want to get precise pinion angle and driveshaft angles is like 350 bucks.....
I think i remember correctly Ujoints have a max working angle of like 6-8 degrees but i could be wrong on that. But yah you need to do something or you're gonna keep shredding that front Ujoint. see how its puking grease?
I think i remember correctly Ujoints have a max working angle of like 6-8 degrees but i could be wrong on that. But yah you need to do something or you're gonna keep shredding that front Ujoint. see how its puking grease?
ugghh, I'm tired of spending all this money on repairs 

I think I'll give this tom woods driveshaft place a call tomorrow... Is it possible this bum U-joint is my source of vibration/shutter? If I'm going to drop 300 bucks on another new driveshaft i want it to actually be fixing my current problem..the vibrations, all the roughness at low speeds, the shutters...


I think I'll give this tom woods driveshaft place a call tomorrow... Is it possible this bum U-joint is my source of vibration/shutter? If I'm going to drop 300 bucks on another new driveshaft i want it to actually be fixing my current problem..the vibrations, all the roughness at low speeds, the shutters...
sure if the needle bearings are crushed/falling out then sure it could be causing the driveshaft to spin out of round







