buying the removal tool is relatively cheap, and after 3-4 removals they tend to get dull so borrowing a used one might be problematic. you might put some cutting oil on the tool to make it last bit longer but if a chip of ceramic gets in the thread its not going to matter (instant dull). vacuum and blow out the debris first (srry if thats obvious).

Btw funny (not) story... saw my neighbor pull the plugs on 07 triton and all came out whole... he let his kid put it the new plugs while we had a congratulatory beer in the garage... heard the impact wrench and ran out and the kid had used the impact wrench to install a new plug and broke it off- "sigh". Lesson? don't believe your neighbor when he says his kid knows what he's doing...

To be fair, the kid never saw an impact wrench used to work on plugs and assumed in = out I guess.

 

I did mine at 130k with no issues. I used penetrating fluid and took my time. When the resistance becomes too great turn the plugs back in before continuing out. Stay centered over the plug expressing caution not to deflect and snap it. No rocket science imo just knowing how to wrench is the key.

 

Just did my plugs this morning using a 3/8 impact(air) and all came out just fine. Truck had 115,000 on it and the plugs had quite a bit of built up carbon on them. Didn't need the lisle tool that I bought. It is posted in the classifieds if anyone would like to buy it.

 

Can you tell me what the model number is on this? All the Sears around here look at me like I'm stupid when I ask for this.

 

Here's a bunch
https://www.google.com/search?q=craf...5802e9ccc66836

 

I have a Dewalt 18v cordless impact, as well as the smaller 12v, both use quick change 1/4" drives, I'd be more likely to use the 12v. Cordless are measured (for the most part) in inch/lbs, not ft/lbs, but don't be deceived, I use my 18v on a daily basis pipe fitting, it has enough power to snap 3/8" bolts. Also, has anyone ever heard the expression "tighten to loosen"? It more than likely would not apply here as it's the porcelain, but whenever I run into a fitting or pipe that won't back off easily, I tighten 1/16 turn or so, just enough to break it free. This may have nothing to do with the plugs, but I just thought of it...
Anyhow, I have an 08 with 70k on it, so (fingers crossed) hopefully mine all come out fine when I do them soon.

 

Jeez....my 18v dewalt will snap the quick change adapter bit before it would a 3/8" bolt....I switched it to a 1/2" driver now.....

 

i may have confused some people...it's just the standard dewalt impact that has the quick release chuck to accept a typical adapter. I usually run a 1/2" adapter for all my 1/2" sockets, sometimes I use a 3/8" adapter. I use the impact ready stuff, but my point was those adapters still only have a 1/4" shank. there is a dewaly impact model that is a 1/2" drive that cannot be separated from the tool, it will easily change out all your lug nuts...that would most likely be overkill. But no, I usually dont snap the adapters that are the black impact ready hardened ones. The usually last several months of constant hammering before shattering.

 

Not too long ago ,put 4 th set of plugs in my 04 5.4 van ,each time ,anitseize,torqued,never an issue

 

I believe you, BUT, what Paralyzer said is true. The torque setting IS a dry setting and when AS is applied, you are increasing the actual torque setting. The plating on the plugs isn't JUST there to make 'em pretty, or keep them from rusting, it's there to keep them from seizing and causing the torque setting to mean something, since it is virtually always a DRY number.

I am assuming you knew this thread was about the 3V 5.4L engine and the breaking problem with the plugs. I'm quite sure you have the 2V 5.4L in your '04 E-250, which is a whole different picture entirely. Standard plugs on the 2V 5.4L. The nickel AS is supposed to go on the ground barrel , not the threads on the 3V engine.

 

Does the 3V 5.4 in the 08 expedition apply to this method of changing the plugs?