2004 - 2008 F-150

Test: Spark Plug Removal using Impact Wrench

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  #76  
Old 03-24-2010, 01:50 PM
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Yes, it's nickel antiseize. If your brother is a Ford tech, see if he can get a BG or Motorvac job done for you before you try to change the plugs. Also have him get you a copy of the latest TSB, the EXACT materials you need (solvent, antiseize, etc.) are spelled out.
 
  #77  
Old 03-24-2010, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Yes, it's nickel antiseize. If your brother is a Ford tech, see if he can get a BG or Motorvac job done for you before you try to change the plugs. Also have him get you a copy of the latest TSB, the EXACT materials you need (solvent, antiseize, etc.) are spelled out.
Hes not currently working for Ford anymore... no jobs. Hes driving a tractor trailer over the road now. He said its really not a huge deal to techs... at least not at the two dealerships he worked at. They soak them, pull em out and replace. BUT he also said they never tried on any high mileage stuff... at least not that he saw.

I do have the hook ups still on parts.
 
  #78  
Old 03-24-2010, 04:00 PM
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Has anyone done the motorvac prior to pulling the plugs? Worth it?
 
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:02 PM
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Well giving this method a shot next week, ordering the plugs tonight. Crossing my fingers!
 
  #80  
Old 10-27-2010, 12:49 AM
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I'm waiting to hear how this goes for you guys...then I'm doing it too
 
  #81  
Old 10-27-2010, 07:02 AM
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Just curious, does anyone think that spraying loctite freeze and release on the plugs would work?http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/ I've never tried it on anything, I think it's a fairly new product.
 
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by roush9799
Just curious, does anyone think that spraying loctite freeze and release on the plugs would work?http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/ I've never tried it on anything, I think it's a fairly new product.
Hi.

First - it's carbon that's the culprit.

Second - for this to be effective one would need direct access to the mating surfaces. Which is problematic given the location of the sleeve in the head, past the threads.

Third - by virtue of said location, you would be attempting to freeze a very large mass of surrounding metal - unlikely to reach the required temps (if the binder was rust) due to heatsinking.

But - thanks for that link - the product looks promising for it's intended usage.


MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; 10-27-2010 at 07:26 AM.
  #83  
Old 11-22-2010, 07:23 AM
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I did the spark plug change over the weekend with my Ridgid Impact driver, 5 came out no problem (luckily the two back ones came out), but 3 only had the nut come out. Did the 1/4 turn and carb cleaner on warm engine. A couple of theories on the broken ones, they may have come apart as soon as I did the 1/4 turn, the impact gun was too strong, or a 9/16" spark plug socket with the boot could have helped turn the porcelain some helping shake loose the rest of the plug with the impact action. Took 5 hours start to finish. All of the 5 that came out had well over a .050 gap, 91K miles.
 
  #84  
Old 12-29-2010, 10:17 PM
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I used the impact method and all 8 came out great and intact.
 
  #85  
Old 09-20-2011, 02:54 PM
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Anyone know what psi i should use on my air impact?? I was thinking like 90
 
  #86  
Old 09-20-2011, 03:31 PM
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I used the impact method and broke 4.. At one point I didnt care anymore if they broke or not. After you learn how to use the Lisle tool. They come out just as fast. I used air with the tool and got it done with no problems. It is a bit uncomfortable to say the least but once you figure out what you need to do its not that bad..
 
  #87  
Old 09-20-2011, 05:53 PM
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does anyone no for sure if running ur truck hard will help with carbon build up?

i got 74k on my 04 and the motor regulatory sees 4 to 5k almost everyday...will this kind of driving keep the carbon down due to the high heat?

btw im hard on my vehicles..im aware it wears out/ kills parts so u dont need to tell me that its not good for my truck
 
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:07 PM
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Hehe welcome to the club, I hit 5k on a regular basis. I would think if you run good gas and some additive here in there it should keep the buildup to a minimum. I run the techron in mine every 4 or 5 tanks of gas. Hopefully my plugs will come out when the time comes, I just started with a fresh set when I rebuilt my motor.
I have actually thought about breaking the plugs loose about once a year or evey six months just to keep them from sitting in there untouched for 5 or 6 years between changouts.
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by kobra_commader
does anyone no for sure if running ur truck hard will help with carbon build up?

i got 74k on my 04 and the motor regulatory sees 4 to 5k almost everyday...will this kind of driving keep the carbon down due to the high heat?

btw im hard on my vehicles..im aware it wears out/ kills parts so u dont need to tell me that its not good for my truck
There was a guy on here some time ago who had an '05 I believe it was. It actually was state or federal owned (he was pretty closed mouth on what he actually did for a living) but it was his "office". He changed the plugs at over 100k mi. and they looked like new as far as rust or carbon. He had around 125k mi. on it when he rolled it and totalled it in a pursuit 30 mi off road. So it sounds like he was a game warden (several middle states). The 125K mi.? was put on in about 22 months if I remember correctly. If that gives you an idea as to what lots of miles in a hurry does for keeping the plugs clean and coming out easy, it speaks for itself. If you do a search I'm assuming you can find the details. He got a Tahoe as the new "office" so hasn't shown up since.
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:08 AM
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Game Warden or BP agent likely, but there are other possibilities.

I think maybe a 1/4" drive small air impact might do it as well?
 


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