Hi guys,

I am sure this has been answered before, but I am just having a hard time understanding why I can't get my door trigger to work. Maybe I am overlooking something simple. I have installed an aftermarket alarm/remote starter. The remote starter works great along with the power lock and unlock. My problem is when I open the door while the alarm is arm, the alarm does not go off. I have a 2004 F150 crew cab. I have diode isolate all 4 doors using the following diagram http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagram...0ISOLATIon.pdf

I connected the Negative Door Input(-) wire on my alarm to the isolated wire from the above diagram. But it doesn't work. My alarm also has a wire that is labeled Positive Door Input(+) and it states that it must be connected to the door switch circuit wire that shows +12V when any door is opened. It also states that this is usually found on a ford vehicle. But I am not certain if I should be using this wire and if so, where should I connect it. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Hi experts, I haven't heard from anyone so I tried to do some more trouble shooting. Everything I read said that my truck has a negative door trigger so I connected one door to try to figure out my problem. I connected the DF door trigger wire directly to my alarms negative door input wire. I arm the system and open the door and nothing happened.
So I decided to connect the DF door trigger wire directly my alarm positive door input wire. With the door closed, the alarm triggered, but when I open the door the alarm stopped going off. I am confused. Can someone please tell me what is wrong? Is my door trigger really negative or positive. what else can i do to fix my door trigger problem.

 

Any Suggestions?

 

pretty cool diagram. Never seen that one before. The problem with that is it's showing to double diode isolate the wires.

Just did three F150s yesterday. You have two choices to go about this.

1. Positive Trigger

You can simply put the positive trigger wire to the black with blue stripe wire in the dirver's kick panel that turns your test light on when the dome light comes on. Simply use the dimmer switch to turn the light on and off when testing this wire. This brings up a problem with the 2way systems sometimes because the dome light has a delay after closing the door. You may have to hit lock on the transmitter again and it will clear the open door signal on the remote.


2. Negative trigger
This will instantly read if the doors have been opened or closed. Doorpins in this vehicle are independent,

WITHOUT factory keyless Drivers door is Black/Yellow, Passenger Door is Black/Pink,found in gray plug in drivers kick panel,

With factory keyless Drivers door is Black/Yellow, Passenger door is Black/Pink, Left rear door is Black/Lt.Blue, Right Rear Door is black/White , All wires are found at B.C.M. behind rear driver's side panel.

You need a simple 1amp diode for each wire. Put the stripe end of the diode towards the door wire. The way I test these wires is with a volt meter that has a beeping continuity checker. I connect one lead to ground and then tap the other lead into the wire. When you open the door you will hear the meter beep. The front doors will do a constant beep but the back doors is a simple pulse.

NOTE: When connecting to the negative door trigger wires you will need will experience problems with the alarm triggering after 30 minutes. This is because the BCM will send a pulse out to test if the dome light is left on. This will in turn trigger the alarm. To fix this you must use a 10k resistor. You need to connect one end of the resister to 12 volts constant and then the other end tapped into the negative trigger input on the alarm that you tapped into the door circuits.

 

Thanks for your response and detail instructions. I followed your instructions for the negative door trigger and works great. Thanks again for your help.

 

Whew. I read your previous posting in my email but now I see you have edited it. I was going to tell you to not cut the wires and just tap into them. Glad everything worked out.

The double diode way comes into play on many other vehicles but on the F150 it's just simply tapping the diode into the door circuit wire and you're done.

 

Darn, I guess I should have been a little more patient. I did cut the wires and put the diodes between. But at least I know the correct way to do it the next around. As for the diodes, I wrapped each in electrical tape and then wrap them all together. Hope that is OK, wasn't certain how they actually work.

I did not experience the alarm going off after 30min, at least not so far. Will I still need to add the 10k resistor?

Last but not least, I wasn't going to use the dome light supervision wire on the alarm, but I decided too. I read that I will need a relay. Is that true? If so, is there any specifics on how to hook that up?

 

I've never done it the way you described. I've just tapped the diodes into the door circuit wires on the f150. If all is working well then it should be fine.

 

Not sure where I am going wrong. I connect a relay and the dome lights or bed lights fail to come on when I disarm the alarm.

This is what I saw online, but that didn't work for me.

Pin 87 = 12 V constant (+)
pin 87a = XX - not used
pin 30 = Dome light wire. I used the dome light wire from the gray plug pin 6
pin 85 = Negative from alarm unit
pin 86 = 12 V constant (+)

Is there a better way to make the dome light and bed lights come on when the system is disarmed?

How can I test to make sure that my negative wire from the unit is working. Hope I didn't mess something up during trial and error?

Thanks for any suggestion. BTW its on a 2004 F150 Crew Cab. Everything else seems to be working fine.

Thanks

 

The domelight should come on with a simple negative pulse from the alarm systems domelight output wire. This is done by connecting the domelight output lead from the system to the orange with light green stripe wire behind the dimmer switch. This is low current turn on and should be just fine connecting your negative domelight output lead to it but some systems I have found simply don't have enough current to supply the turn on switch. If this is the case then you will need to connect a relay like so.



WARNING! Make sure that this is a negative pulse to the orange/green wire. If you do a positive pulse you will be wondering why you can not turn your domelight off at all. You will have to replace the headlight switch. Trust me. It's a $75.00 switch. Bought a few...lol

 

Well I am going to assume that my alarm dome light output doesn't work. because I connected.......

pin 30 to the Orange/green dimmer wire
pin 85 to 12V
pin 86 to alarm negative output
pin 87 to ground

But the dome light still did not turn on after being disarm.

 

Hey guys I saw this post and wanted to ask a question im having a problem with my installation Im having the same problem but cant et it to work the alarm goes off when the doors are closed but not when they are opened ive tried alot of different ways and cant seem to get it to work. Im thinking of maybe doing it with the positive trigger like you suggested do you think that would be ok?

 

What size wire should I use to run the door lock trigger all the way back to the BCM?

 

Wow. that's from over 3 years ago. I don't even remember posting that...lol A standard 18 gauge wire will do.

 

hello,
i have problem regarding remote lock.
i have mazda 626,year 2000, and i have one wire negative trigger system for door locking.I put aftermarket keyless unit and connected by diagram.I know wich wire is trigger and when i put this wire to ground point door locks and put it again on ground point unlocks so it worked O.K. but when i hold this wire litle longer then door lock-unlock-lock-unlock.So this is the problem because keyless unit holds this negative trigger for milisecond to long,then doors locks and unlocks when i want to lock and vise versa.Should i put some diodes to lock and unlock wires from keyless unit?