hey jeremy, what were you running stock?? how many tenths did you drop after mods?

 

Don't quote me on this but I believe it is on a built engine, meaning headwork cams pistons and everything. If you want to know more, go to the engine section and just ask him. I don't think he ever reads the 04 up because he has the previous body.

 

Running with less than 1/4 tank is a bad idea. You can starve the fuel pump and choke the engine.

 

How do you figure this, I drive all the time with my truck under a 1/4 tank and have never ever had even a hiccup.

 

I thought it was 1/8 or less was bad?

 

Running out is bad, other than that its not dangerous. I can go full throttle with my low fuel light on from a stop and have no problems.

 

When you do a full throttle launch all the gas runs to the back of the tank and the fuel pump is at the other end. Chance to burn the pump up results, plus the chance to starve the engine of fuel, though you should have enough in the fuel line to make up for it, but you never know

 

I would not use full throttle at 1/4 tank or less because fuel starving the engine can cause a lean condition and overheat the fuel pump.

You may not have had problems in the past, but just know it could happen and in general isn't good for your engine.

 

there was enough fuel in the tank to where the fuel pump never ran out of fuel to suck. it never stumbled or anything. all is well.

so what do you guys think i would be able to do with full bolt on? not a built engine. im thinking 15.5 is about right. i was just reading someones post in the tuning area and he said that with his truck with intake longtubes, and a custom tune he was doing like 270+ RWHP and like 300+ RWTQ. im thinking that an extra 60RWHP and 40+RWTQ i will be able to get to about 15.5

 

Is this on troyers site? There should be enough fuel in the lines to more than take care of the problem, especially since these trucks dont accelerate that hard for that long. I just figure that its more of a cover your but kinda thing than an actual problem.

 

Since you only have the 2wd drivetrain and a short driveshaft, i think you will be able to get more power. If you did all the bolt ons, i think you could get nearly 280-290 rwhp and 350ish rwtrq.
-3.5" AF1
-magnaflow or borla catback
-dynatech longtubes
-magnaflow high-flow cats
-UDPs
-E-fans
-coils
-spark plugs
-Troyer Performance 93 octane tune

 

You are probably right, just personally its peace of mind for me. I want this thing to last forever.

 

according to his website, his stage 3 kit knocks off 1.5-2.5 seconds off ET. its pretty much everything short of internals and S/C. if thats true then 14.7 would be the low end and at the high end of his estimates ill be looking at 13.7. thats alot more than i thought.

 

With you in the truck and a full tank of gas you're going to be easily over 5000 lb's.

If that 60 foot wasn't so bad, you'd easily be in the 15's. Just getting an even 2.2 60 should knock at least 2 tenths off the ET. They say every 10th you take off a 60 foot is good for .15 at the other end, so you should knock 3tenths off your ET with a 2.2 60ft.

I've run my Mustang at the track a few times, and ran quite a few 13.6's @ 104 plus, but my 60 foot is horrible (2.2), and I've never bothered setting up some good rubber for the track. I just wanted to get an idea.

 

how can i knock off time on my 60' without mods? i mean the truck only has what it has.