2001 XLT 4x4 115,000 nothing major just normal up keep. Exhaust replaced, about to go onto the 2nd set of tires (have BFG AT KO's, got almost 80,000 on em), oil change every 5000 (LOF and tire rotation). had a bad ball joint a couple years ago and just said why not and replaced everything in the front, ball joints, tie rod ends, basicly all the steering components, hubs, rebuild the steering gear. All 4 shocks. onlything it's had to go bad and cost a little was the AC compressor. Been a great truck, still all stock but that's soon to change. No plans on getting a new one for a while.

 

installed the engine myself, got the engine at a discount cause a friend of mine is a ford mechanic. the engine was $4,060.00, think that was 900 bucks off... replacing the engine wasn't too bad either, just kinda tight raising her outta there
figure w/ the antifreeze, filters n couple of misc tools (tranny line removal tool) and new coil pack (broke one on the way out) add 150 bucks

 

2004 lariat 2wd. front wheel bearings going bad. other than that great truck.

 

Other than window regulators (all 4) no problems at all until 105K when the engine abruptly failed. Seems that an injector stuck open which we all know what that leads too. I am working on getting that fixed now...dealer and other local garages want $7-8.5k to replace long-block. Some quoted 100K mile takeout installed for $6k? I found a re-manufactured long block for $2945 (free shipping 3yr part/labor warranty) and a mechanic that will install it for $1300. Figure another $500 or so for plugs/gaskets/belt/fuel filter and I should be out the door for less than $5k. This does not include new or re-manufactured injectors since I still have not decided what to do here.

 

You shouldnt have to pay for a THING!!!

Ford's Extended warranty on the injector problem:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14942986/Inj...20Warranty.pdf

If the injectors caused your engine to fail, they should be covering the cost period

 

That would be nice...but that letter specifically states 2005 year model trucks...mines an 04.

 

it's not holding up anymore...

 

damn. was every one ok in that.

 

Damn!


I was going to say mine held up really real after getting rear ended tonight but I've got nothing on that! Tell me everyone was ok!

 

Is that a drainage culvert that caught and subsequently removed your left front wheel w/suspension still attached? Is that also what launched the truck into a roll? I hope everyone is OK...

 

04 heritage 4.6 2wd......200000 km on the clock....Just regular maintenace as u woul expect...hoping to get another 200 plus km....

 

05 supercrew 4x4, seal between transfer case and transmission failed, overfilling t case. caused shuttering.replaced power steering pump at the same time because small leak was discovered. replaced numerous front calipers and rotors. Roush leaf spring broke with 30 k miles on kit. Replaced numerous "Black Ice" tree airfresheners. Besides that its been great for 111,000 miles

 

04 Fx4 standard cab jus bought in jan well pleased with it till feb. motor started a tickin noise. Had it checked out said it was the cam phaser and they said its normal with this yr model. Said it wouldnt hurt a thing to drive it. Well turned out it wasnt the phaser. It was the number four intake rocker which broke the valve and dropped it down and locked her up tight. Had it replaced with a Jasper motor and stronger than ever now. Other than that no problems at all. Love the truck. Pulls my horse trailer everywhere i need to go.

 

04 Lariat Crewcab

Bought in Jan 07 with 56K. Had the "shifter kit"? replaced (under warranty) in the transmission in may 07. They replaced my front ball joints at the same time too (also covered).

at 75,838 I got the "Auto Lamp" error message but luckily found the corroded connection under the driver side rear door. 838 miles over warranty and ford wouldnt cover it. Don't know who found that (pretty sure it was someone on this board) but i fixed it myself it was a lifesaver.

~100,000 the rear oil seals were leaking and the clutch pack in the rear diff went. Had a bent front U-joint replaced at the same time too; fixed a little highway vibration I had.

130,000 - Steering wheel got insanely tight - ordered the lower steering shaft and replaced it with my dad. Thanks again to this forum, saved me some $.

145,000 - Performed the highly talked about task of replacing the spark plugs. Brutal.

148,000 - Front calipers needed to be replaced. Were wearing incorrectly. Something that shouldnt go wrong imo.

153,000 - where i'm at now. Current projects include: resealing 3rd brake light (sometimes leaks), putting the 90 degree bend in the A/C drain hose to prevent road spray from coming back up into the drivers side footwell, and rear U-joint needs to be replaced (have the weeeoooo weeeoooo's going)

Think thats about it.

Edit: The paint near the gas cap is peeling, which is most likely my fault for not taking more caution when filling up and the paint is starting to bubble and rust on the cab body near the bottom of the rear doors

 

I am the original owner and have babied the truck since new. I read many of the 500+ responses to get a feel for what lies ahead for me. I haven't had as bad luck as many have had in the past 7-8 years. However; I Just replaced rear brake pads, rotors and left side caliper at 35,000. rediculous. the ABS computer crapped out at 300 miles under warranty. The driver side window lift assembly broke - a 5 cent piece of plastic connector you can't buy. $350 for the entire lift assembly installed.

I have noticed from time to time a miss or surging in the engine when cruising. i thought it was bad gas but others have identified a similar problem. I should also have the garage look at the 4 wheel drive components before it can get more expensive to fix - just makes some noise at times when engaging/disengaging like the parts are frozen and need to brake free.

What is a butyl pad recall and IWE failures? I saw them referenced but I can't find any reference to them.