LED Center Console Mod
Originally Posted by F150 Duke
My only suggestion would be to put the LEDs in the bottom portion of the compartment. This is because if they're in the top arm rest portion of the compartment and you go to reach in for something, you could potentially block your own light.
What is the reason for putting the switch on the negative instead of the positive?
Originally Posted by luke280
Thanks again! LED lights are a spotlight. In the instance that you are describing, one would need a flood light instead of a spotlight. There is not enough distance inside the console for the LED's to flood properly, to cure this they went on the lid. Not to mention if you all are anything like me, the console is full of paperwork and CD's, and more than likely they would block the light. .
Or we could all not be lazy and just put the over head lights on via the switch to the left of the steering column.
But then again if driving at night in a dark area and you don't want the intrustion of the entire cab getting light, then this would be the perfect solution.Duke
RP,
There is about 3/8" of space between the inner and outer lid.
The only thing that I see being a problem is that the lid is not square anywhere except for the top. these switch to work properly need to rotate on a 2-way vertical axis, not diagional. So if one were to place the switch on the side of the lid, and it to sit in there in a way for it to work properly, well more power to ya. The switch is on when it is horizontal and off when it is vertical (the oppisite of the lid axis). Only other place to stick it would be on top. The wiring would work, but you'll have more of a chance of damage from your elbows, the lid gives away more than you think.
One more point. How many of ya open the lid all the way to full tilt?
There is about 3/8" of space between the inner and outer lid.
The only thing that I see being a problem is that the lid is not square anywhere except for the top. these switch to work properly need to rotate on a 2-way vertical axis, not diagional. So if one were to place the switch on the side of the lid, and it to sit in there in a way for it to work properly, well more power to ya. The switch is on when it is horizontal and off when it is vertical (the oppisite of the lid axis). Only other place to stick it would be on top. The wiring would work, but you'll have more of a chance of damage from your elbows, the lid gives away more than you think.
One more point. How many of ya open the lid all the way to full tilt?
Originally Posted by F150 Duke
Or we could all not be lazy and just put the over head lights on via the switch to the left of the steering column.
Duke
Duke
Originally Posted by F150 Duke
My only suggestion would be to put the LEDs in the bottom portion of the compartment. This is because if they're in the top arm rest portion of the compartment and you go to reach in for something, you could potentially block your own light.
Originally Posted by F150 Duke
If you want pictures of how the center console comes apart, just check out my gallery. I have quite a few pictures there from when I took it completely apart for my Z1 iPod controls.
Duke
Duke
Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi.
You can find these @ Rat Shack in the home alarm section (or at least you used to). Switch & magnet sold as a pair. Should be able to mod it to workee...
Cheers
Bubba
You can find these @ Rat Shack in the home alarm section (or at least you used to). Switch & magnet sold as a pair. Should be able to mod it to workee...
Cheers
Bubba
Originally Posted by RockPick
Will that one work with a 12v application? A quick search on Radshack's site reveals only a couple of hits for 'Reed'... none of which are switches.
Yes, they're just switches - no problems in the intended application.
Actually, any place that sells DIY alarm stuff will carry them - and also some places that carry the X10 stuff as well. Try Home Despot, Lowe's, etc?
Cheers
Bubba
Originally Posted by luke280
One more point. How many of ya open the lid all the way to full tilt?
I think I understand what you're saying here -- that being that, unless you lift it to a full tilt, you may not get the effect of the magnetic field on the switch?
To combat that, you go with a NC switch that, while the magnet is near the switch, the circuit is off. Remove the magnet and the circuit is on. ?
One more consideration... I put my wallet in the console frequently... any risk for the magnet to interfere with credit cards w/ magnetic strips?
Originally Posted by vtron
RockPick
Here are some links for you
reed switch datasheet
It's a normally closed (NC) SPST switch. It has tinned leads about 12". Just connect one end to ground and the other to the LED. The one listed below MP201802 is closed anything closer than 0.25" and releases at 0.7". They have one's, MP201901, that have looser tolerances but it's harder to find as NC. You can use NO, it's not as clean.
The magnetic actuator is in the same housing (the flange can be cut off of either if needed).
Here's the
Magnet Link
Switch Link
Here are some links for you
reed switch datasheet
It's a normally closed (NC) SPST switch. It has tinned leads about 12". Just connect one end to ground and the other to the LED. The one listed below MP201802 is closed anything closer than 0.25" and releases at 0.7". They have one's, MP201901, that have looser tolerances but it's harder to find as NC. You can use NO, it's not as clean.
The magnetic actuator is in the same housing (the flange can be cut off of either if needed).
Here's the
Magnet Link
Switch Link
NO wouldn't be as clean because why?
Originally Posted by RockPick
As usual, I guess I'm a tad confused. Write that one down -- it's so rare. LMAO...
I think I understand what you're saying here -- that being that, unless you lift it to a full tilt, you may not get the effect of the magnetic field on the switch?
To combat that, you go with a NC switch that, while the magnet is near the switch, the circuit is off. Remove the magnet and the circuit is on. ?
One more consideration... I put my wallet in the console frequently... any risk for the magnet to interfere with credit cards w/ magnetic strips?
I think I understand what you're saying here -- that being that, unless you lift it to a full tilt, you may not get the effect of the magnetic field on the switch?
To combat that, you go with a NC switch that, while the magnet is near the switch, the circuit is off. Remove the magnet and the circuit is on. ?
One more consideration... I put my wallet in the console frequently... any risk for the magnet to interfere with credit cards w/ magnetic strips?
Hi.
Aha! Another reason to go with the Hg solution
. Seriously, I guess there could be a risk depending upon proximity. I just inadvertently wiped my corp gas card by putting it in my shirt pocket along with my (magnetic) clip-on sunglasses... jeez, bonehead move, in hingsight.As for the reed switch position: put the magnet up front near the latch, and the reed below in the base. This way, soon as you even begin to crack the lid, the circuit will close. If you can't find a N.C reed, then you can use a simple relay to do it.
Cheers
Bubba
Originally Posted by MGDfan
[/U]
Hi.
Aha! Another reason to go with the Hg solution
. Seriously, I guess there could be a risk depending upon proximity. I just inadvertently wiped my corp gas card by putting it in my shirt pocket along with my (magnetic) clip-on sunglasses... jeez, bonehead move, in hingsight.
As for the reed switch position: put the magnet up front near the latch, and the reed below in the base. This way, soon as you even begin to crack the lid, the circuit will close. If you can't find a N.C reed, then you can use a simple relay to do it.
Cheers
Bubba
Hi.
Aha! Another reason to go with the Hg solution
. Seriously, I guess there could be a risk depending upon proximity. I just inadvertently wiped my corp gas card by putting it in my shirt pocket along with my (magnetic) clip-on sunglasses... jeez, bonehead move, in hingsight.As for the reed switch position: put the magnet up front near the latch, and the reed below in the base. This way, soon as you even begin to crack the lid, the circuit will close. If you can't find a N.C reed, then you can use a simple relay to do it.
Cheers
Bubba
This magnet probably has some 'juice' to it to work the switch, eh? Pretty strong, I'd assume.
The reality of zapping my credit cards - namely my company card - seems pretty real if so...
The reality of zapping my credit cards - namely my company card - seems pretty real if so...
I did a similar mod... originally used that little red or black-tip PB from radio shack but recently replaced it with one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SELECTA-SWITCH-S...QQcmdZViewItem

It works much better (the old one didn't have a long enough barrel to tighten through the plastic trim.)
Here's the lamp I used:
I attached it with Velcro, so I could pull it down and use it like a "corded flashlight" if necessary...
http://cgi.ebay.com/SELECTA-SWITCH-S...QQcmdZViewItem
It works much better (the old one didn't have a long enough barrel to tighten through the plastic trim.)
Here's the lamp I used:

I attached it with Velcro, so I could pull it down and use it like a "corded flashlight" if necessary...
Originally Posted by luke280
x2, or just use a plunger that you never see anyways, that is unless you put your face inside the console...
Ahhh... but plungers are so... so...... so 1980's
You're right, of course - whatever you are comfortable with.
Me, I'm into needless, gratuitous CoMpLeXiTy
Elegance helps too. With a name like Bubba ( formerly known as Grog,) who woulda thought, eh?
Cheers
Bubba the Windbag


