New Guy here

I’ve searched using all kinds of different key words and I’ve read at least a half-ton of posts on this subject, here and on the other big site. Sorry, but I still have questions.

I have a 2005 XL Scab. I want to install power windows and door locks, but so far I’ve found only one place here in Tacoma WA that will install them. And they want $1000. Way too much. So I’ll probably go with the Colibri kit (not sure which locks yet) and do it myself. I just need to get it straight in my head before I guy buying a bunch of stuff.

Here’s where I’m “mentally” stuck
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1. Running the wires into the doors:

I have that big white plastic connector plug to deal with. I read Chris’ suggestion on just adding another boot. I saw the picture where someone spliced a smaller boot into the factory one and then branched into off into a new hole in the jam just below the white connector plug. I’m sure it works great but I need just a little cleaner result.

What size (diameter) boot should I get? Where would be the exact best place to install it? Seems that the factory boot already uses the only spot that would work. The angles on the rest of the door & body jam look like they’d crush a new boot if installed any place else. Any suggestions? Any pictures?

Other than a salvage yard where could I get boots?

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2. Hooking up the power:

I think I want the windows to work only if the key in “on”. Comments?

Ok this is probably auto electric 101 to everyone except me. How do I hook up the power to the truck? There’s supposed to be a “circuit breaker” on the fuse box for power windows. Would I hook it up there? If so, how? If not where? Does the wire harness that comes with switch kits have all the connectors, etc. that I need? What else do I need?

Any pictures of actual wiring may help.

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I’m very impressed with this and the other big forum. I’ve found extremely helpful detailed instructions with pictures for removing door panels, stereo face plates, etc.

Thanks to everyone contributing.

 

I would send ChrisAdams an email about this, he knows the ins and outs of this mod, as he has done it himself.

 

Nothing to be sorry about, darn good questions.
Thanks for not posting the usual 'posted a thousand times' ones.



That 1000 is closer to what is usually charged after an estimate of 700… So probably an ‘honest’ shop.

I’m assuming you want keyless locks.
To break that down, there are a number ways to do it.
Easiest is just get a Crimestopper (or other brand name) keyless remote module with two actuators. Skip the whole ‘slave lock thing’ that’s the 5 wire door actuators that allows one door to slave the other doors. Don’t want/need it on this truck. So save the money.
If you are not going to put in a door lock switch ( a truly not needed item) just open and close with the remote. It will be hanging in the ignition, and since you will use auto lock/unlock on the keyless system it works fine.
Get Swiss actuators if you can.
Have some locktight handy for the install and locktight the little screws that hold the actuator rods.

Keyless only modules usually include built in relays.
Alarm systems which include keyless usually require you to add two relays to the project.
I will post some links you might want to look at.


Yeah that block is a pain.
A few points.
No one will ever see that boot. The only person that would is a mechanic working on the door. And they really don’t care.
Pictures make things look worse than they are.

You could do it that way using a small wire boot from Radioshack and it would look clean.
We used a one inch in diameter boot, with half inch ends that we put into the two half inch holes we drilled, one on the door, one in the jamb. There is a little more room than you might think.
Still by far the hardest part of this job.
Other peoples solutions would help.


We used one an inch in diameter. Just a guess, didn’t measure it. We were able to put all the wires we needed through a half inch hole. Depends on which way you go on actuators and window mounting of switches.
There is more room in the door jamb when the door is closed than you might think.
We have used cardboard toilet paper rolls cut short and taped inside door jambs as ‘crush’ testers. You put it somewhere you want to run wires and then close the door. Open it and see if the tube is crushed. As I say there is more clearance than you might think.
You can buy boots from a dealer parts department,
a custom alarm shop, Radioshack (some of them).
Wrecking yards like pick a part that allow you to walk around and pull your own parts are good for this and they cost almost nothing. A twenty minute sojourn through a yard can find you a box of them for about ten bucks.
Or less.



I put mine in that way with it only on in KEY on position, but didn’t like having to turn the key all the way to on when sitting listing to the radio, so I set it to work on accessory and key on.



OK, more links to follow;

 

http://www.gemsen.com/ford/

http://www.gemsen.com/ford/Pdf/02-06..._(8-29-05).pdf

You go there, and down load the PDF file. On page 203 (among others) it tells you all the places you can hook up, and all the wiring colors. These PDF’s are VERY huge and essential in keyless or other installs.

They are for putting in dozens of Ford type Powercode alarms, keyless, remote start, etc.
HOWEVER, they have all the exact wires and what they are used for.
Fantastic resource.

The only thing they don’t tell you about using is the basics of Relays.
So there is this fine site;
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UxiuL5e...st=yes&cat=100

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-G88yNL6...ech/kb326.html

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-G88yNL6...h/kb326.html#A
the last is the commonest way to use relays.


Now when you get a kit for door locks, or alarm, they give very easy to follow instructions. Most people only need that simple set of instructions. These resources can just allow you to pick the right wire, and use the optimum choices.


This is a Colibri kit from the pictures, even though it is not sold as a brand name kit.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-DOO...ayphotohosting

This is an honest vendor and this plus two actuators is all you need to put in keyless power door locks;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Crime...QQcmdZViewItem

This is a kit that contains a module you would not use. You actually just need two actuators. The module included with this is not really helpful. I have one left over in my junk if you wanted it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Doo...temZ8002859986


Some people will tell you that the after market actuators go bad. Well, it’s a very simple technology, proven, and the same principle as the factory units. I have had more factory units go bad than aftermarket.
Plus, if you pay five bucks for it, you can buy and keep a spare. If you pay 40 bucks for factory, then you just hope they don’t go bad.
Local dealers use the aftermarket in their dealer installed keyless systems.
Hope this gets you a little way down the road
Chris

 

Chris, gotta say you are one helpful guy. I followed all your advise on installing cruise on my truck a while back and it made it a breeze, and now I am on the verge of ordering all this to get power windows and locks. In fact I may do it tonight. Just wanted to say thanks, I've read about 6 or 8 different threads that you've responded to on this subject and at the moment I feel like I can do the install blind folded..

 

Thanks for the kind words. I know I post on it too much, but folks do ask...


Oh, yeah, did you read my posts on putting tweeters over the window crank holes? Cheap ones on e-bay come with crossovers and can be easily spliced into the speaker wires a few inches away. It looks better than either the gray buttons I used at first, or the black disks that come with the kits.
The instructions always tell you to cut the holes in the door larger and put these disks in. Not needed on these trucks and they are not all that 'cosmetic'.

The tweeters can be mounted flush, and really look good, or can be mounted in the included swivel collars. I went with the collars and swiveled them up. I have Pioneer speakers in my doors, three way speakers, but adding the two tweeters worked very nicely. Flutes, violins sound much nicer.
Tweeters, unlike Woofers are very directional so pointing them up is helpful. Also, unlike Woofers, quality on the tweeters is not really critical.

The window cranks on these trucks are so far forward that unless you have short arms and long legs your knees don't block the sound very much.


Gray buttons. These were a 2.00 purchase from a fabric store. They looked OK, but not quite what I wanted.


Disks from Colibri kit, but with the tops cut off so they can be glued, rather than enlarge the hole like the instructions say.



Tweeters in collars. If you mount them flat, without the collars they look much better, but I wanted the sound.

 

your welcome man, its guys like you that make this board worth coming to. Ya I saw your post about the tweeters, thought it was a pretty neat idea, I may do that myself. I didnt order my stuff yet, having a hard time deciding whether I want a new prop for the boat or the windows/doorlocks.. going tomorrow to try a few props out, but I figure I will hold off on the prop and do the PW/PDL now, its about to get too cold to worry about going fast in the boat..

 

Thank you Chris!

You just saved me at least $150 on the kits alone. I saw the power window kit on eBay before and I knew they looked like the Colibri, but wasn’t sure since the name was different. I’m assuming the vendors sell those items often, so I may wait just a bit. I did put them in my eBay favorites though.

I wasn’t going to go with keyless locks, but you’ve convinced me that it’s the better option. Seems a lot easier than running more wire and mounting another switch. And with the links you gave me it won’t cost me anymore.

You mentioned getting Swiss actuators. On the door lock link you gave…are those Swiss made?

I’ll try the toilet paper roll test tomorrow. Ingenious.

I downloaded the pdf files from Ford. I’m sure they’ll be a lifesaver once I figure out how to use them and where/how everything goes.

Still having trouble visualizing the wiring hook up. It’d probably be better if I just buy the kits, lay everything out, and plan from there. Once I can touch and examine everything the project should start clicking.

I saw your tweeter set-up before. Very slick. I may try that later….after I’m over the fear of messing with the electric. Always afraid I’m going to fry something important…and expensive. Do I need to disconnect the battery before messing with stuff?

I also saw the picture of your power window switches. I sat in the truck for a good 30 minutes visualizing the best place to put them. I think your location is the best. Easy to reach. Looks like it was always there. I’m a little reluctant to cut out holes in the door panels anyway.

Thanks again Chris for all your help.

 

Hope it all works out for you. I'm posting about wiring in another thread at this same time. You might want to look at it.

Take your time on those PDF's and they will tell you what color wire has what signal.

The battery off is always a good idea.

The way I run 'diskreet' wires there is no fuse in the wire till I am done, so no chance of touching anytthing hot. I also put a lighter fuse than required in the first test. Then test each function. If the fuse blows, I'm still safe. But I then know what to check. Of course on a simple windows / door lock job that probably won't even be an issue.

Some tips on doing keyles entry.
You don't really want all the functions.
On my crimestopper units I never bothered to hook up the flashing lights or key interupt. I was able to snip more than half the wires before doing the job. Helps a lot. I also added a very low price siren to the circut, rather than tieing into the horn. A siren chirp works as well, cost 5 bucks, didn't have to splice into the horn wire.

Now that I have a Powercode Alarm/keyless I have all the features (plus trunk and siren) hooked up. Lots more wires.
You might not want to bother though.

The tweeters just splice into your speaker wires at the speakers. Very easy to do, nothing dangerous or very electrial.

On this whole job, just be sure you take your time, make good connections, and protect things with black tape. Can't use too much black tape. I like to wrap entire runs of wires, factory style, for looks and protection.

On the door lock actuators, and window motors, they use nice plugins that keep you from making mistakes.
And the window harness are already pre cut. I have shortened mine, but you don't have to. Precut works fine.
Best of luck
Chris

 

well I went ahead and ordered a window and door kit today, so I am sure you'll be seeing a post sometime next week with my install experience. I ended up getting the Colibri knock off that you linked to on Ebay, also bought the PDL and keyless entry kit from the same seller. I'll have $127 tied up in it shipping and all

 

That looks like a great price. Keep us posted, swear words and all.

OH, and if you have a camera, how about taking some shots? Lots of folks want to see, and honestly, I never think of it when I'm inside the door.
Chris

 

will do, I have a camera and I'm not afraid to use it...

I havent even looked at my truck yet to see if it has the white box or not, if it does there may be a few curse words to post.. My dad Sport Trac has the dreaded box and I wired up keyless entry for him a while back, I was cussing that dang thing...

 

okay well i decided i am gonna git r dun! I am getting ready to purchase the power window kit off ebay but I don't know what kind to get.
Here is 1 style
Style 2
I don't know which kind to get. Another thing after doin a lil research. I found that my scab might have the rear windows that open. In a screw me over scheme by ford. Apparently hamradio has an xl and he took off the rear panels and he had the manual regulators. I am pretty confident that my stx does have the manual regulators. Does anyone know if I could buy a 4 window kit and use it for the back two. I am gonna take that rear panel off and check today (btw is there a special way to remove the rear panel). So does it basically slip on the end and crank the crank mechanically? How hard or easy is the mod thanks.

Or should I just get these bad boys

 

Don't laugh at the 'bad boys' I used a set of Hitachi's that look just like that to put power windows in a Vitara. Took about twenty minutes, and darned if they didn't work fine. Silly looking, but those that look into the car think they are speakers...
Wouldn't work on the New truck though, the raised area around the handle would stop them.
Yes, I know you were just kidding.

Both sets you show would work fine. I used the Colibri kit, which is the style (and builder) of the first set. The straight lift set is much harder to put in, but would also work nicely.

Problem with power rear windows being added is the switches and wiring turns into a huge job. And you may not have the gear in the door. You would have to pull BOTH panels to be sure. If you did, the Colibri type would be best for the rear as you would want to use the crank system, not replace everything back there.

Chris

 

hey chris do you have aim?