No, I don't use any instant message programs. I am posting from my server, behind two firewalls and a router. All instant message programs leave 'holes' so I don't use em. Sorry. I do answer e-mails, or posts.
Chris

 

ah, keepin world class secrets? jk anyways are you sayin that the colibri kit is the cheaper or expensive, i would think that they ones that bend are easier to install i am right?

 

Way easier to put in. After you yank the panel, use a razor blade to cut the plastic weather proofing back. You cut the rubber glue in the middle of it, so you can put the plastic weather seal back in place. The glue cuts in the center of the glop, and then can be resealed without trace.

Then you will have to drill about a dozen holes, very small, in the metal door frame. The Colibri just fits, if it was two inches longer you would have to bend it too much. Try to get it to match into the corner at the botom of the big hole near the door lock. You will see what I mean when you get there. Bracing it in the corner makes it even sturdier.

I did not cut the hole out larger for the window crank cover, just covered it. So I skipped that part. The tweeters do work and add sound quailty. A win-win.

You have checked the door jamb and hopefully do not have that big white block for the boot. The ones with the basic rubber boot are a snap.

Where are you planning to put the switches?
Chris

 

lol kinda went a lil over my head but i am followin ya i was hopin to put the switches on the door right by the window i was hoping a little pod of four switches. the colibri kit comes with switches correct? do i absolutely have to use those? i saw someone's switches on here that i really really liked but they have yet to respond. goin off on a tangent i was kinda thinkin about making like a fiberglass pod and put my switches there and mount it to the door...but that is more work but i am confident it would look good

 

Colibri kits usually come with two or three switches. It will say in the add. You could use a Ford 4 panel switch, that is four switches on one piece.
Or lots of things are possible. Do a search here in this forum for power window switch and you will see some clever ideas.
I cheated, and since my windows are express up-express down this works great



but there is no limit to methods.
Chris

 

i definitely want the express up and down if i can find the switches that i like i will post a picture

 

i found these on JOKERGOMEZ81's gallery i really like these however i don't like the fact that they are stacked

any idea where i can get those?

 

I justed wanted to pipe in with a few comments. First off I dont know if youve considered the A1 Electric kit for $250 but right now I have the SPAL kit which is much like the colibri and will be replacing it the the A1 kit this christmas. The universal kit definately did what is promised for what I payed for it but I really like the fact that the A1 kit is a complete replacement which elimantes alot of possible problems and is sure to be slighty faster and more reliable. Heres a link! Second, Chris is completely right about the tweeters. Looks alot better than the little cap things. I actually cut out the whole a little bit and put the speakers into the door so they dont stick out near as far and it looks great. It was a nice bonus when they actually improved the sound. Heres a few pics just in case:

 

it looks guide so rolling the window up can you tell that it is after market is it really slow?

 

I've had my rear power windows installed for about 6 months and decided to do the fronts too. I ordered my regulators, which are stock Ford made for the 150's , from Ford Parts Network and they were easy to install. Took about 15 minutes per door to change out. My XL Supercab did not have power windows and the rear doors did not even have roll downs. But they had a manual reg hidden inside the door panel. The new power regs fit right into the original holes which are keyholes. Plop in and tighten them down.

The real basic problem is that there is NO harness in the doors. So as I do radio and electronic work I made up my own. For switches I used the standard GM type switch. I even found a 4 switch master on e-bay. All switches are in door except driver side. That 4 switch master is on a dash panel to the right and down from the steering wheel.

No mater which way you go you will be happy with your new power windows!

 

hamradio how do i take off the lower panel of my door?

 

Well not sure when you say "lower panel" . But here goes on how my XL front door panel comes off.

First you need to remove the window handle. The cover of it unsnaps at the center and there is a torx screw to remove it.

Next there should be a small phillips screw below the armrest. Remove that.

Now there is a small snap panel inside the door handle. Pop it up, be carefull not ot break the tabs off. Remove the two bolts inside that attach the handle to the door.

Look at the bottom of the panel and remove the two screws there.

Pop the speaker grill off, carefull again for the mounting tabs. Remove the four speaker screws and unhook the speaker wire connector. Also remove the lower seal on the bottom of the speaker opening.

Now all you have to do is pull up on the door panel. Be sure to force the panel out to clear the bottom screw mounts at the speaker opening. I just sitck an orange wood sitck in and then pry it up.

Your door handle will come off with the door panel. You can unsnap it from its holder on the door panel and let it hang by the cable.

You now have a full view of your door innards. But there is the plastic sheet to remove. I use a hobby knife to part the sheet plastic from the sticky stuff they put on the door. After your done much of it will not stick back together. In its place I used 3M outside mounting tape to secure the spots that would not stick again.

Of course if your doing a full power window add you will be running wires from the door to the cab. Its really not that hard to do. The dash left side panel, the one covered by the door when it closes, just pops off. Also the lower kick panle is easy to remove. Access to the flex boot to the door is under the kick panel. Same on the passenger side.

The rear doors of the Supercab are even easier.

First, you will need to remove the two top side covers. They pop off. Its a hard pull to get them off but they are tough.

Aftert the top covers are removed there are two screws at the top of the door panel to remove.

Now remove the screw at the bottom of the door panel.

Pop the small snap in panel inside the door handle, carefull of the mounting tabs and remove the two screws there. The door handle is now loose.

Lift the door panel up and its off. The speaker stays inside.

Do the same as the front door to remove the plastic panel and maybe the speaker too. See the manual regulator inside the door?? Crazy!

When I first saw that regulator and my rear windows did not open or have a handle I was shocked. Then I knew I could change that manual reg, with no access, to a power one. If you stick a torx into the reg center you can manually roll down the window.

I finished yesterday and I'm really happy I can roll them all down form home plate!

 

[QUOTE=KaNigIt]I justed wanted to pipe in with a few comments. First off I dont know if youve considered the A1 Electric kit for $250 but right now I have the SPAL kit which is much like the colibri and will be replacing it the the A1 kit this christmas. The universal kit definately did what is promised for what I payed for it but I really like the fact that the A1 kit is a complete replacement which elimantes alot of possible problems and is sure to be slighty faster and more reliable. Heres a link! Second, Chris is completely right about the tweeters. Looks alot better than the little cap things. I actually cut out the whole a little bit and put the speakers into the door so they dont stick out near as far and it looks great. It was a nice bonus when they actually improved the sound. Heres a few pics just in case:




Hi KaNigIt, the Colibri kit is about twice to three times as heavy as the SPAL, and the motors are much bigger.

That said, the A1 units are nice, but for 180 bucks difference...

What kind of problems have you had with the SPAL units?
Chris

 

you mind sendin a pic of your switches? my arm rest u's into my speaker panel. i could not find any other screws i took off the two panel pieces that pop off, then the two screws and i couldn't find anymore after that. let me upload the pic i took

that was as far as i got. you see the arm rest goes into the speaker grll

 

Theres nothing really *wrong* with my SPAL kit other than its not quite as fast as Id hoped (though i dont really have to worry about it now with the remote/express up down), they draw alot of power, and the install brackets and such were way to flimsy for my taste. I just really like the idea of having a complete, almost oem, type replacement rather than a universal kit and the A1 kit looks 10 times more solid. To me it seems like comparing a leveling kit to a full suspension lift.