Quintin, I think you are on the the right track there. It sounds like a galvanic reaction between the two metals. I remember a science experiment where two pieces of dissimilar metals were clamped together under pressure and over a long period of time they became nearly welded together. This was due to the molecules of the two metals exchanging places with each other. It sounds like this is happening between the spark plugs and the cylinder heads. The electric current of the ignition may even be helping or accelerating this reaction. Looks like I will be pulling my plugs to inspect and clean them before too long.

 

Well the spark plug was designed around the new head design. The plug is a one of a kind. Lets face it, spark plugs are not designed to have forces exerted on them, not just this spark plug.

I think its a combination of head design and spark plug design, because you cannot have one without the other. I will be very suprised if a redesigned spark plug fixes this without any sort of head work.

Also, changing spark plugs is not rocket science and does not require a ford tech. In fact, it doesnt matter if a ford tech snaps if off or the regular car buff. When it comes to such things as changing spark plugs, what does being a Ford tech have to do with anything? Its not like this requires a skill that only Ford techs possess, its a matter of mechanical know-how, a thing that many on here possess.

 

I think that's what I'll end up doing when I replace all of mine. Going back together, I'm putting a light coat of dialectric grease or anti seize or something on the insert portion of the plug. I also found out that the replacement plugs have already upgraded, for what reason, I'm not sure. I'll find out when I get 'em. No one in town had them, had to get them from our supplier out of Atlanta so they should be in my hands late tomorrow evening or Thursday morning.

 

Maybe those upgraded plugs have a thinner bottom

 

By upgraded do you mean they shouldn't have the same problem? How much do they cost? Is this something we'll have to order from the parts dept since they're specific to the F-150?

Thanks in advance

 

Upgraded, as in during the product cycle, engineering deems that certain parts may be "better" for an application and upgrades the current stock. I haven't got a clue as to how (if at all) they're different. Spark plugs often update over the product cycle though. Hell, I haven't even looked at one of these style spark plugs until I pulled one out of my truck today.

They go for about $17/ea dealer list price. Autolite apparently makes a replacement too, but I haven't compared any of the Motorcraft or Autolite plugs side by side to see if there really is any difference.

 

Silverbullet5.4 Iam 52 yrs old I know it does not take a rocket science to change a spark plug But it looks like there is a problem with these plugs I have a 2004 f150 lariat supercrew built 9/04 with 5000 miles on it I just read posts and ask questions I have changed plugs on a lot of motors But not on a 5.4 3v

 

Ahh Sh$t, i will just trade it for an 07. The 07's probably will have Navigation as an option with Satalite T.V.!!!

 

Hi guys - I found this while Googling for galvanic corrosion - note the stuff I bolded:

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Oct 4, 2002

18-8 Stainless steel has no reaction with aluminum. Make sure that your screws are 18-8 type material. Also 300 series stainless will work . Just don't use any 400 series stainless steel as it is magnetic (has higher carbon content) which is the reaction problem.

Bill Trobaugh
- Richmond, Virginia

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Jul 16, 2003

While searching for info on galvanic reaction between stainless steel and galvanized steel I found Bill Trobough's comment that 18-8 stainless does not react with galvanized steel. Does anyone know how 400 series stainless reacts with galvanized steel and how they both react with 30 micron anodized aluminium. They will be used outdoors and we would like a life expectancy of 20+ years.

Bernard Warren
- UK

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Aug 7, 2003

Go to www.mcnallyinstitute.com/04-html/4-1.html and look at the section an GALVANIC CORROSION. It also has a list of materials and which would be the anodic end and which would be the cathodic end.

Ray, Chem Eng
- Louisville, KY
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Also - look here:

www.mcnallyinstitute.com/04-html/4-1.html

The issue is called nobility. The key is, not just metals in contact, but also the presence of an electrolyte - be it water vapour ( non-pure), combustion byproducts, etc.

Aluminum is the worst offender, and 'passivated Stainless steel is the best.

As well, if the sleeve on the plug was Anodized aluminum ( and never sratched), it would also help.

You guys are definitely on to something.

If the PLUG REDESIGN used Stainless Steel for that sleeve, the problem would be vastly reduced, or perhaps even eliminated.. SS (passive) has the highest nobility.

My 2 cents - forgive me, as I'm not that bright.

Grog

 

I agree wholeheartedly that there is an issue with these plugs and them seizing. I was simply making the point that in this case, taking a diy mechanic's word is just as good as a Ford tech. I mean Ive worked on enough Fords to be considered a Ford tech lol, just dont make my living doing it. Unfortunately, my spare time is consumed doing it.

 

OTC Ford F-150 Spark Plug Socket

• This unique and patented design works on 2004–newer Ford F-150 pickup trucks with 5.4L 3-valve Triton V-8 engines.
• Socket end is 9/16". Soft rubber insert holds and protects spark plug during removal and installation.
• Extension is part of the socket. Easily fits down spark plug tube in cylinder head.
• Socket has 3/8" drive for use with a ratchet or breaker bar.

http://www.handsontools.com/store/sh...ct_id=13967386

this looks like the monkey

 

Buy that one or one from SK Tools. I bought mine from $nap-on for $35.

 

This whole situation sounds to me like it's a combination of things. Over torqueing the plugs at the factory, a lack of antiseize as well as improper removal technique. One thing I do to remove stubborn bolts or plugs is to turn the bolt/plug until I feel resistance then STOP, thread it back in and turn it back out. I repeat this process until the bolt/plug has been removed. If your patient, it will come out without breaking. As more of the 5.4's get to the point where the plugs need to be serviced, I'm sure there will be a TSB about this and Ford will develop a solution.

 

What exactly is the torque specification on the 3-valve plug for the ones you can get a torque wrench on?

 

25 ft/lbs. None of them look especially hard to get to, except for #4.