Changing Spark Plugs
#31
Originally Posted by blackf-150
Is the plug on the right a replacement for the factory one on the left and is it approved by ford for use is 5.4 3v engines it looks to me like this could turn into a nightmare and be very expensive. Thanx
#32
Originally Posted by Kool Aid
Isn't there a method in which you can 'de-carbon' the engine?
I thought I read about sucking some kind of liquid into the intake, that will burn off the carbon.
I thought I read about sucking some kind of liquid into the intake, that will burn off the carbon.
Last edited by silverbullet5.4; 10-16-2005 at 02:31 PM.
#33
Tschaid:
What worries me is the difference in the new plugs. Look at the traditional plug, the sealing ring is just above the threads. Now look at the F150 plug, the sealing ring is below the threads, thats a first. So the sealing ring is below(or further into) the cylinder.
On a side note, it cost you $1700 for the dealership to fix their screwup? Am I reading this properly. So if you change the plugs when you're supposed to and they break off even when Ford does it, you have to pay?? Something sound horribly wrong.
What worries me is the difference in the new plugs. Look at the traditional plug, the sealing ring is just above the threads. Now look at the F150 plug, the sealing ring is below the threads, thats a first. So the sealing ring is below(or further into) the cylinder.
On a side note, it cost you $1700 for the dealership to fix their screwup? Am I reading this properly. So if you change the plugs when you're supposed to and they break off even when Ford does it, you have to pay?? Something sound horribly wrong.
#34
[IMG] Guess I can't see how to put the pics in. If somebody can tell me how to add pics, I will show you one of the plugs that we pulled and where all broke off.
Anyway,
Yep, poor plug design + tolerances too close in the cylinder == seized plug. As for the dealer screwing up..... I am having a hard time understanding how the dealer really did anything wrong. I am quite sure that Ford knows about this. I am also quite sure that the Dealers didn't or couldn't have known until I told them about the plug design and difficulty. Once they had my truck, they had nothing to lose since I had already busted two off myself. At that point, they knew they would be pulling the heads. The 100,000 drive train warranty doesn't include plugs; but, my truck had 68,400 on it. So seizure occurred much earlier. I suspect at around 30K.
Anyway,
Yep, poor plug design + tolerances too close in the cylinder == seized plug. As for the dealer screwing up..... I am having a hard time understanding how the dealer really did anything wrong. I am quite sure that Ford knows about this. I am also quite sure that the Dealers didn't or couldn't have known until I told them about the plug design and difficulty. Once they had my truck, they had nothing to lose since I had already busted two off myself. At that point, they knew they would be pulling the heads. The 100,000 drive train warranty doesn't include plugs; but, my truck had 68,400 on it. So seizure occurred much earlier. I suspect at around 30K.
#35
Originally Posted by ChrisAdams
Old style was to pour Chemtool or Gumout down the carburator, slowly with the engine running. Produced enough smoke to make people think the shop was on fire.
We also used plain water in a soda bottle. Anything at all hitting the carbon build-up would break it loose.
They don't do that anymore.
One, you would get a ticket for airpolution while you were doing it. I mean a lot of smoke came out.
Two, it would be sorta akward to pour it in, as the air intake is sideways. Could find a way but;
Three, sorta really, really hard on the Cats and the sensors. Might not damage them...
Four, I don't think it would get up into the area that seems to be causing the problem.
Hopefully there is another way.
I suspect a solution like that will come along about a year from now when tens of thousands of these will be needing plugs.
Chris
We also used plain water in a soda bottle. Anything at all hitting the carbon build-up would break it loose.
They don't do that anymore.
One, you would get a ticket for airpolution while you were doing it. I mean a lot of smoke came out.
Two, it would be sorta akward to pour it in, as the air intake is sideways. Could find a way but;
Three, sorta really, really hard on the Cats and the sensors. Might not damage them...
Four, I don't think it would get up into the area that seems to be causing the problem.
Hopefully there is another way.
I suspect a solution like that will come along about a year from now when tens of thousands of these will be needing plugs.
Chris
Doubt that any of your remedies will work on this. The plug seizes an 1" below the threads. In other words, it is unlikely that any of that will work past the threads.
#36
Yup that's what I thought as well.
I was just answering the question about how it used to be done, but as I said in the post, this looks too far up to get by any easy method.
The feed it through the vacuum line method is not gonna get as much as the old style method.
If this is as bad as it sounds, they will have to find someway to fix it, or resale is gonna take a huge hit.
I think they will figure a method within a year or so.
Chris
I was just answering the question about how it used to be done, but as I said in the post, this looks too far up to get by any easy method.
The feed it through the vacuum line method is not gonna get as much as the old style method.
If this is as bad as it sounds, they will have to find someway to fix it, or resale is gonna take a huge hit.
I think they will figure a method within a year or so.
Chris
#37
#38
Originally Posted by Matt 05'FX4
Here is a picture of these plugs for reference to your description, tschaid. I have 18,000 miles and will be (hopefully) installing the new plugs that Roush sends me with their PCM reflash. Do you think I will have any problem with getting mine out at 18,000? What actually breaks on them? Do you have any of the old, broken ones to take pictures of? Wow, this looks like major problems down the road, because most people that are unaware of this problem will get them changed at the 100,000 interval that is recommended OR if there are misfire problems beforehand.
I found another pic of a side by side comparison with a standard plug
I found another pic of a side by side comparison with a standard plug
#39
Originally Posted by tschaid
ChrisAdams:
Doubt that any of your remedies will work on this. The plug seizes an 1" below the threads. In other words, it is unlikely that any of that will work past the threads.
Doubt that any of your remedies will work on this. The plug seizes an 1" below the threads. In other words, it is unlikely that any of that will work past the threads.
Anyway, because the seal ring is below the threads, I could indeed see how siezure would become a problem. Why wouldnt the sealing ring just be above the threads like on every other engine? I have a feeling there are going to be thousands of angry F150 owners in a year or so when this "100k" mile spark plug changes turns into a couple thousand dollar nightmare. Like I said, Im changing mine at 30k to be safe.
#40
Originally Posted by FX4&EXCURSION
So is it smart for me to pull my 5k plugs and replace with traditional plugs while they might be somewhat easier to get out? Will I have better performance with better plugs?
#41
Originally Posted by silverbullet5.4
Based on the new head design, its doesnt seem possible to install a traditional style threaded spark plug. The sealing ring location is totally different. Seems like we're stuck with these plugs.
#42
#43
Here's a link for the Motorcraft version, but no image. I wonder if it's the same design/style. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...number=PZT1FF4
#44
Yep... Superchip, intake, exhaust, 93 octane.... All should result in a more complete burn resulting in less carbon build up.... Not more. Don't see how you can look at it any other way. However.... that is why I posted my original question to see if anyone else has run into this issue. I do know that the Ford Techs at Ford Motor Company know about the issue. When the were posted with a question by the Service Mgr, they responded with a simple and curt "Yes they will" when asked if this new plug design and head design could result in plugs breaking off.
As far as the Motorcraft vs. the Autolite. They are the same identical plug. Autolite brags about this new design specifically for Ford and this new motor. The mechanic mic'ed each plug and they were identical. I do suspect that a narrower bottom sleeve would help delayed the carbon siezure; but, I am not aware of any new plug design for this purpose.
And... No. you cannot use the traditional plug design. It won't extend far enough into the cylinder.
As far as the Motorcraft vs. the Autolite. They are the same identical plug. Autolite brags about this new design specifically for Ford and this new motor. The mechanic mic'ed each plug and they were identical. I do suspect that a narrower bottom sleeve would help delayed the carbon siezure; but, I am not aware of any new plug design for this purpose.
And... No. you cannot use the traditional plug design. It won't extend far enough into the cylinder.