Changing Spark Plugs
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Mslc1,
These were factory motorcraft plugs, number PZT2FE. You are right about the plugs being stout, until they are over torqued. As I said the excessive pressure makes the seat flare out and that is what loosens them up. What I dont get is why only the one plug was over torqued at the factory, and the other 7 were fine. You would think that these mistakes could be avoided with todays tooling technology.
This plug was damaged when it left the factory, and it was definetely leaking compression, I can tell that it runs better with the new plugs. If I can get a good close-up of that plug I will post it.
These were factory motorcraft plugs, number PZT2FE. You are right about the plugs being stout, until they are over torqued. As I said the excessive pressure makes the seat flare out and that is what loosens them up. What I dont get is why only the one plug was over torqued at the factory, and the other 7 were fine. You would think that these mistakes could be avoided with todays tooling technology.
This plug was damaged when it left the factory, and it was definetely leaking compression, I can tell that it runs better with the new plugs. If I can get a good close-up of that plug I will post it.
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What worries me now is what damage has been done to the seat on the head. After all, the plug is steel and the head is aluminum. If the plug's seat is flared the seat in the head must be flared.
Anybody know how to post an image? I tried the image button, but it asks for an IMG text formating. What is that?
Anybody know how to post an image? I tried the image button, but it asks for an IMG text formating. What is that?
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Originally Posted by insynco
I posted earlier about changing my plugs at 42,000 miles and today I finally got it done. It was all going well up until I got to plug number 5. All the plugs up to that point had only a minimal amount of carbon on the tips. I could tell something was wrong because it was very tight coming out. Eventually I got the thing out and low and behold it spun just like jpdadeo's. (I have the same build date, 9/03) I also noticed that that plug appears to have been overtorqued at the factory. By looking at the seat of the plug, it is obvious that the seat is curved and all of the others are flat. This plug was definetely overtorqued. I believe that may be what caused the plug to spin. The extreme pressure on the seat caused the seat to flare and the stem to loosen. Wish I had a way to video tape the spinning, I would post it, but I dont. What was unusual was that plug was the only plug that was rusted out of the group.
Anyway, I am just glad that I got these plugs changed, and I can now monitor the new ones (PZT2FF4) from here on out. I cant imagine this thing going for another 60,000 miles before changing them.
Thanks for all of the informative posts.
I would have never known.
Anyway, I am just glad that I got these plugs changed, and I can now monitor the new ones (PZT2FF4) from here on out. I cant imagine this thing going for another 60,000 miles before changing them.
Thanks for all of the informative posts.
I would have never known.So, it's:
- Real Men: 5 ( by my count - prolly more)
- Ostriches: 0 ( dorks, losers & capons are always zero)
Cheers
Grog
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From: Sunny FL
Someone should try Seafoam and then change the plugs. It might just be the answer. Another tidbit I learned since my plug change was a warm engine (150° - 160°) will eliminate the creaking noise removing them. I used the OEM Motorcraft for replacement but next time I’m going to try the Autolite. The Autolite plugs for the Mustang GT with the 4.6L are one heat range colder then the Motorcraft PZT2FF4 or PZT2FEF4.
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I used a penetrating catalyst oil called PB, Fabulous Blaster. This stuff is great. I sprayed about a teaspoon into the plug well and let it sit for a day. When I pulled the plugs every plug was saturated with it all the way down to the tip. The only plug that was dry was the one that was overtorqued.
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From: Yucaipa, California
Temps are interesting.
Originally Posted by jpdadeo
Someone should try Seafoam and then change the plugs. It might just be the answer. Another tidbit I learned since my plug change was a warm engine (150° - 160°) will eliminate the creaking noise removing them. I used the OEM Motorcraft for replacement but next time I’m going to try the Autolite. The Autolite plugs for the Mustang GT with the 4.6L are one heat range colder then the Motorcraft PZT2FF4 or PZT2FEF4.
Jpdadeo, tell me where you learned about the warm engine change out? I find that more than interesting. As mine were changed in a stone cold engine with no creaking and finger loose after breaking the torque. They all seemed to come out the same. As Mike Troyer posted earlier we may be the victums of improper torquing at the time of engine build by the robots doing this job. I didn't even know they used robots for some of this. Shows you where iv'e been...
Is a colder plug a wise choice? The tip ceramic on my plugs were all the same color and clean as can be. A little off-white. Another interesting question is to find out what brand of gas has been used the most in those that have had plugs broken or almost too tight to remove. If there is so much carbon built up to freeze the tip then where did it all come from? Was it carbon or some other byproduct?
As for the Seafoam, check the pulg prior to application and then after to see what it did.
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by HamRadio
Man, I thought I was through with this post......
Jpdadeo, tell me where you learned about the warm engine change out? I find that more than interesting. As mine were changed in a stone cold engine with no creaking and finger loose after breaking the torque. They all seemed to come out the same. As Mike Troyer posted earlier we may be the victums of improper torquing at the time of engine build by the robots doing this job. I didn't even know they used robots for some of this. Shows you where iv'e been...
Is a colder plug a wise choice? The tip ceramic on my plugs were all the same color and clean as can be. A little off-white. Another interesting question is to find out what brand of gas has been used the most in those that have had plugs broken or almost too tight to remove. If there is so much carbon built up to freeze the tip then where did it all come from? Was it carbon or some other byproduct?
As for the Seafoam, check the pulg prior to application and then after to see what it did.
Jpdadeo, tell me where you learned about the warm engine change out? I find that more than interesting. As mine were changed in a stone cold engine with no creaking and finger loose after breaking the torque. They all seemed to come out the same. As Mike Troyer posted earlier we may be the victums of improper torquing at the time of engine build by the robots doing this job. I didn't even know they used robots for some of this. Shows you where iv'e been...
Is a colder plug a wise choice? The tip ceramic on my plugs were all the same color and clean as can be. A little off-white. Another interesting question is to find out what brand of gas has been used the most in those that have had plugs broken or almost too tight to remove. If there is so much carbon built up to freeze the tip then where did it all come from? Was it carbon or some other byproduct?
As for the Seafoam, check the pulg prior to application and then after to see what it did.
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Jim
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From: Yucaipa, California
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
I think you have missed the point of what is causing the concern. It is not carbon build up, it is rust at the point where the plug extesion is pressed on, causing it to break off when it is twisted through the hole coming out.
Is the stuff on the plug extensions rust or some other byproduct of combustion in the cylinders. (If I remember right without going back to earlier posts about the broken off plugs they did seem to have a considerable amount of black stuff at the tips.) Some of us have more of it on the plugs and some, like me, had much less of it even though we had about the same mileage. So I posed the question as to gas brands used. Just looking for a few answers here folks so lighten up!
I knew there was a reason I left this post earlier.
Man, its break time isn't it?
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by HamRadio
Well I think I'm the last guy who missed the point. I've been in the front end of this post since the beginning. I'm am one of the first in line who did a plug change out. As you missed in my last post I posed the question as to what the stuff was that was fouling the plug extensions. I did mention carbon but also was it some other byproduct. Does that mean I MISSED the point? I think not.
Is the stuff on the plug extensions rust or some other byproduct of combustion in the cylinders. (If I remember right without going back to earlier posts about the broken off plugs they did seem to have a considerable amount of black stuff at the tips.) Some of us have more of it on the plugs and some, like me, had much less of it even though we had about the same mileage. So I posed the question as to gas brands used. Just looking for a few answers here folks so lighten up!
I knew there was a reason I left this post earlier.
Man, its break time isn't it?
Is the stuff on the plug extensions rust or some other byproduct of combustion in the cylinders. (If I remember right without going back to earlier posts about the broken off plugs they did seem to have a considerable amount of black stuff at the tips.) Some of us have more of it on the plugs and some, like me, had much less of it even though we had about the same mileage. So I posed the question as to gas brands used. Just looking for a few answers here folks so lighten up!
I knew there was a reason I left this post earlier.
Man, its break time isn't it?
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Jim
Jim
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Originally Posted by HamRadio
snip;
Some of us have more of it on the plugs and some, like me, had much less of it even though we had about the same mileage. So I posed the question as to gas brands used. Just looking for a few answers here folks so lighten up!
snip
Some of us have more of it on the plugs and some, like me, had much less of it even though we had about the same mileage. So I posed the question as to gas brands used. Just looking for a few answers here folks so lighten up!
snip
If we knew the areas of the country/brand/grade fuel it might be useful.
The overtorqued plugs are a seperate problem, of course.
Chris
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From: Yucaipa, California
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
I think you missed it again. I was not being tacky, just trying to point out that the breaking plug problem was caused by rust, not carbon build up on the tip. Have no idea why you got so defensive. Maybe you do need a break.
I know it looks like rust on some of the pictures. Mine were redish color but very light and after wiping them it left a grey hard deposit on the surface. The only way to remove it was with a wire brush. It was not thick enough to cause any binding upon removal at least for me at 22,500 miles.
Now ChrisAdams has a good thought about gas blends.
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by HamRadio
Ok, so I take a break. Sorry I was defiensive. Now I ask the question, knowing that there is "something" that is seizing the plug extension, is it RUST as you keep saying it is or is it a "look alike' byproduct other than rust?
I know it looks like rust on some of the pictures. Mine were redish color but very light and after wiping them it left a grey hard deposit on the surface. The only way to remove it was with a wire brush. It was not thick enough to cause any binding upon removal at least for me at 22,500 miles.
Now ChrisAdams has a good thought about gas blends.
I know it looks like rust on some of the pictures. Mine were redish color but very light and after wiping them it left a grey hard deposit on the surface. The only way to remove it was with a wire brush. It was not thick enough to cause any binding upon removal at least for me at 22,500 miles.
Now ChrisAdams has a good thought about gas blends.
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Jim
Jim
Last edited by Bluejay; Nov 16, 2005 at 04:42 PM.
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by jpdadeo
Exxon is a clean burning gas but it’s reformulated and has the least BTU of all
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Jim
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From: Sunny FL
Originally Posted by HamRadio
(Snip
tell me where you learned about the warm engine change out?
Is a colder plug a wise choice?
tell me where you learned about the warm engine change out?
Is a colder plug a wise choice?
2. A colder plug equates to less cylinder temperature, which, at WOT, allows for more timing that is already built into our custom tunes & we can handle up to 96-octane with positive results; that’s how the tunes are built (this is in reference to the 93-octane performance tune only)