1997 - 2003 F-150

P1151

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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 02:03 PM
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P1151

So I have a code for, P1151- on a 97 F-150 4.6 5spd..
I have replaced everything it could be. I'm still getting the code. I hooked up multimeter and tested wires coming from engine harness to Bank 2 Sensor 1, all are getting a good reading except my Yellow and Light Blue wire that is my heater ground?,. It's showing 0.02 volts. If I'm correct it should be about 12 volts????? Or am I totally not getting this right. I've checked wires leading to PCM and have found no issues. I'm wondering if the PCM is bad if is was bad, wouldn't the truck run funny . I have no issues other than Check Engine light is on. It doesn't run funny or have any other issues .
 
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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 02:24 PM
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I have replaced everything it could be.
I doubt it, but list "everything that it could be" that you replaced. Include the make and part number of the O2 sensor(s).
Bank 2 Sensor 1
Which specific sensor are you identifying as B2S1?
Yellow and Light Blue wire that is my heater ground?
You have to use the colors of the wires on the vehicle side of the sensor since different mfrs use different colors on the sensor side of the connector.
Or am I totally not getting this right.
Hmmm....
 
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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 03:39 PM
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According to this, many things can cause that code.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p1151-ford
 
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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
I doubt it, but list "everything that it could be" that you replaced. Include the make and part number of the O2 sensor(s).
Which specific sensor are you identifying as B2S1?
You have to use the colors of the wires on the vehicle side of the sensor since different mfrs use different colors on the sensor side of the connector.
Hmmm....
B2S1, is driver side upstream. And yellow and light blue is the colors on the engine harness, not O2 connector. I was asking if the volts seemed right, and if PCM is bad, wouldn't it run like sh"*????
​​​​
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 12:42 PM
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Heater element voltage should be 12 volts +/- some tenths.
This is needed full time for at 'least' two reasons.
1. To get cold start into loop action fuel control much sooner.
2. To allow the sensor to stay in it's heated operating range as the engine load and RPM changes during the drive cycle.
If the heater is missing or low in heat, the Ox sensor cannot respond with the speed sensitivity it needs to with response to Oxygen content in the Exhaust gas from cylinder to cylinder. The response time has to be quite fast.
Add to this, a buildup of soot, and other by products of combustion over time and sensitivity goes down.
Be a good boy and look at the action with a Scanner and not try to guess, spend un-necessary money and effort trying to get lucky.
At least compare the action to the other side.
This is why Scanners are used to help diagnose beyond the code set, point.
Good luck.
 

Last edited by Bluegrass; Jan 21, 2019 at 07:18 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 02:42 PM
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If there was a problem with the heater, he would have gotten a heater fault code, presumably a P0155 for B2S1.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 08:57 AM
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I'm trying to rewire my O2 sensor pigtail on driver side upstream B2S1. On 97 F-150 4.6 . Engine harness has colors
Red. Yellow/Blue. Gray/Red. Black/Red . Any pictures would help.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 09:17 AM
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Why? If you used the correct part, it shouldn't need "rewiring"? How is anyone supposed to help you if you don't provide any relevant details?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 09:37 AM
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SHO . Apparently it was the pigtail on B2S1, that's what dealership said. So now I'm trying to rewire it. I thought I would get similar color pigtail from part's house, but I made the mistake of not keeping track of the wires, so now I'm asking for help.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 11:08 AM
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We STILL do not know what you are using as your replacement part......
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 12:54 PM
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Heater pair is RED, …... Yel / Lt Blue.
Sensor pair is Grey / Red,..... Red / Black.
Use voltmeter to test Heater pair from PCM for 12 volts with key On to be sure.
Test Heater in sensor with ohm meter to be sure it's not open or shorted.
.
Do NOT try to test the ..(sensor half)…. with an ohm meter function or voltmeter function.
After work is complete, look at the sensor action with a Scanner and compare with the other bank.
The rear sensors both sides do not work the same as the fronts but should be relatively stable in output with only small movement.
If either tend to follow the fronts, the cats are nearing end of life.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 09:18 PM
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BLUEGRASS I fixed it and thank you for your input .SHO your constructive criticism doesn't help anyone, what else would I be replacing it with???
Another pigtail!!!!!
Since I can only get a universal pigtail, the colors of those wires are different then the engine harness colors.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmoore3187
BLUEGRASS I fixed it and thank you for your input .SHO your constructive criticism doesn't help anyone, what else would I be replacing it with???
Another pigtail!!!!!
Since I can only get a universal pigtail, the colors of those wires are different then the engine harness colors.
there’s no reason for a “universal pigtail” and there’s less reason to snap at folks cor askig questuons after tou have miltiple threads being no less than vague as possible
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 10:11 PM
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SHO was asking what the brand and part number was for the new SENSOR you installed. There are many different ones, all supposedly compatible. Example:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...2)+sensor,5132
 
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