2001 5.4L No Start
#1
2001 5.4L No Start
At the risk of being told "read the 500 other threads on this topic" (which I've done), I am looking for some assistance with the troubleshooting I've done so far.
About 2 weeks ago, the wife told me that the truck was not starting on the first try, but when she tried again, would start on the second attempt. Then after a 3 or 4 days, she got stranded but got a ride home. When I got home, we took a can of starter fluid, I shot some in the intake, it hit and we got it home. When I went back the next day, starter fluid or no, it will not hit. The battery is strong and it will crank and crank and crank, but not start.
So I hit the forum, learned a few things and on the way home one day, stopped at O'reilly and picked up a can of MAF cleaner, a fuel pump relay and a loaner fuel pressure test tool set. Today I recharged the battery (due to all of the previous cranking), verified that the inertia switch was closed, hooked up the pressure gauge and had the wife cycle the ignition 3 or 4 times per the pressure test instructions. Gauge never got off of zero. Stopped, changed out the 301 relay with the new part, visually checked the number 10 20 amp fuse (looked good) and tried the same routine with the same result. Fiddled with the connection 2 or 3 times to make certain that it was as finger tight as I could get it. Never got the needle on the pressure tester to move.
I got in and checked the Theft light, it did not blink. The gauges swept but I am thinking this is because I had the battery unhooked and it has not successfully restarted. I have not checked power on the lead to the pump not tried jumping the relay.
At this point I am thinking fuel pump, but wanted to get other inputs from the board for new thoughts and make sure there is not something I have overlooked.
#3
#4
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
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Yes, you should feel the relay(s) click. A light touch of a fingertip is all it should take.
Just go to the inertia switch and look for the 1-2 second application of power for the pump at initial turn-on. Use a voltmeter or test lamp. This will split the circuit in half so you know which half needs attention.
Just go to the inertia switch and look for the 1-2 second application of power for the pump at initial turn-on. Use a voltmeter or test lamp. This will split the circuit in half so you know which half needs attention.
#5
At the risk of being told "read the 500 other threads on this topic" (which I've done), I am looking for some assistance with the troubleshooting I've done so far.
About 2 weeks ago, the wife told me that the truck was not starting on the first try, but when she tried again, would start on the second attempt. Then after a 3 or 4 days, she got stranded but got a ride home. When I got home, we took a can of starter fluid, I shot some in the intake, it hit and we got it home. When I went back the next day, starter fluid or no, it will not hit. The battery is strong and it will crank and crank and crank, but not start.
So I hit the forum, learned a few things and on the way home one day, stopped at O'reilly and picked up a can of MAF cleaner, a fuel pump relay and a loaner fuel pressure test tool set. Today I recharged the battery (due to all of the previous cranking), verified that the inertia switch was closed, hooked up the pressure gauge and had the wife cycle the ignition 3 or 4 times per the pressure test instructions. Gauge never got off of zero. Stopped, changed out the 301 relay with the new part, visually checked the number 10 20 amp fuse (looked good) and tried the same routine with the same result. Fiddled with the connection 2 or 3 times to make certain that it was as finger tight as I could get it. Never got the needle on the pressure tester to move.
I got in and checked the Theft light, it did not blink. The gauges swept but I am thinking this is because I had the battery unhooked and it has not successfully restarted. I have not checked power on the lead to the pump not tried jumping the relay.
At this point I am thinking fuel pump, but wanted to get other inputs from the board for new thoughts and make sure there is not something I have overlooked.
If you do get fuel spewing out of the schrader valve, then you will have to tighten the gauge line to the fuel pressure indicator. I had to use a pair of pliers in order to get it tight enough to depress the needle on the schrader valve.
#7
Did it charge the lines after wrapping on it? Yes? It's the pump.
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#8
If the pump itself is bad, anyone know a good shop in Richmond, VA as I don't want to do that job alone.