spark plugs..
spark plugs..
so im scared to change my plugs on my 97 150 with a 4.6 and 206k miles... ahould i be i think im gunna wait till spring that way if i have proiblems i can ride my bike while the truck is broke.. what do you think?? should i be scared? im just not sure if its my tuner or my plugs that make my trucks power surge on heavy accel for instance like getting on the freeway...
And why do you have to wait until spring to ride your bike?? As long as their no snow or ice on the ground...what's the problem?
...that's what I think!
Oh...you meant what do we think about the spark plug causing the surge!
...that's what I think!Oh...you meant what do we think about the spark plug causing the surge!
no im actually worried that i might break a plug off or strip some threads or somethin cuz its got a buncha miles on it and i dont know when or if they have been done before.... and if that happens it'll be down for a while, hence me riding my motorcycle.
it's all modular motors
the breaking off is pretty much limited to the early 3 valve motors, your 4 thread 2 valve heads must have the heads cold when the plugs are torqued or else they may be prone to spitting the plugs
the breaking off is pretty much limited to the early 3 valve motors, your 4 thread 2 valve heads must have the heads cold when the plugs are torqued or else they may be prone to spitting the plugs
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Replacing plugs on the 2v engines is relatively easy & straightforward; not like the precautions needed on the 3v's anyway. If the plugs are really tight, spray some seafoam down the plug wells if you feel they need some help. Otherwise, they come out pretty easy. In order to help prevent cross-threading when putting in new plugs, use a piece of 3/8" air hose on the end of the plugs to get them threaded correctly. Torque them to 28-ft-lbs and don't use any anti-seize. There are tons of threads on here regarding how to do this work. Here is a good post: https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ugs-4-6-a.html
In regards to your truck surging, does the check engine light come on?
In regards to your truck surging, does the check engine light come on?
Ummm ...that's a tad too high for a 4-thread head, with a tapered 14mm plug.
http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php
Also - you'll find a lot of proponents advising the use of a little anti-seize on pre-3V plugs. Good arguments on both sides of the fence - (dissimilar metals versus the 'plug-spitting' concern, etc)
On 3V plugs, the hi-temp nickel goop goes only on the electrode shield, not the threads, most agree. Again - some folks still insist on lubing there too (I did).
http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php
Also - you'll find a lot of proponents advising the use of a little anti-seize on pre-3V plugs. Good arguments on both sides of the fence - (dissimilar metals versus the 'plug-spitting' concern, etc)
On 3V plugs, the hi-temp nickel goop goes only on the electrode shield, not the threads, most agree. Again - some folks still insist on lubing there too (I did).
Last edited by MGDfan; Jan 5, 2010 at 11:48 AM.
That's way too high for a 4-thread head, with a tapered 14mm plug.
http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php
Also - you'll find a lot of proponents advising the use of a little anti-seize on pre-3V plugs.
On 3V plugs, the hi-temp nickel goop goes only on the electrode shield.
http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php
Also - you'll find a lot of proponents advising the use of a little anti-seize on pre-3V plugs.
On 3V plugs, the hi-temp nickel goop goes only on the electrode shield.
__________________
Jim
Jim

I'll stick to the recommendations of the larger body of experts (including MT & the plug manufacturers themselves for starters).
If you are not real careful and can't get a torque wrench on properly to be sure, then if it were me, I'd just as soon not push the TQ out that far. Distort the treads just once, and you are done. Plus, pulling out the 'ole Timcert kit is not a great way to spend the day.
Thanks anyway.
Yikes. Sounds just like what the factory robots did to the early modulars! 
I'll stick to the recommendations of the larger body of experts (including MT & the plug manufacturers themselves for starters).
If you are not real careful and can't get a torque wrench on properly to be sure, then if it were me, I'd just as soon not push the TQ out that far. Distort the treads just once, and you are done. Plus, pulling out the 'ole Timcert kit is not a great way to spend the day.
Thanks anyway.

I'll stick to the recommendations of the larger body of experts (including MT & the plug manufacturers themselves for starters).
If you are not real careful and can't get a torque wrench on properly to be sure, then if it were me, I'd just as soon not push the TQ out that far. Distort the treads just once, and you are done. Plus, pulling out the 'ole Timcert kit is not a great way to spend the day.
Thanks anyway.

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/
And here is there answer as to why. Question/answer #50.
Q: Why do you prefer 28-32 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?
A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with over 10 Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 30 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28-32 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.
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Jim
Jim
And that's the point at which you lost me 
We are talking pre-2003 (full-tread-count) heads, correct?
If so, that's astonishing.
Thanks for the info, Jim.

We are talking pre-2003 (full-tread-count) heads, correct?
If so, that's astonishing.

Thanks for the info, Jim.
We are talking heads with the 4 threads that have a tendancy to blow out plugs after they back out a round or two.
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Jim
Jim







