Thanks for looking.

I just bought a 1999 XLT 4x2, 4.6 V8, auto, 3.55 LSD with 50K on the odometer. I'm going through it to make sure that all required services have been done. The owner was pretty good originally about checking things off in the service booklet, but around 30K he quit doing that and just wrote the mileage in. I'd normally assume that meant that the service had been performed, but I'm going to do the big stuff anyway.

So far I'm planning:
Oil and Filter
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Cabin Air Filter (do I have one?)
Transmission service (I'll have that done somewhere)
Lube Suspension (Also sub-out)
Coolant Flush and refill
Probably serpentine belt, haven't looked at it closely yet
Probably brake fluid flush

Two things that I would have expected to see in the service schedule and didn't were flush the brake system and replace the serpentine belt. When are those supposed to be done?

The manual says check with my dealer to determine what type of coolant to use. It's too late on Saturday to do that, can anyone help? I have the "failsafe" cooling system option, if that means anything. The coolant is REALLY ugly and full of rust. I'm going to assume that the PO was just adding water, so it really needs changing.

Regarding flushing the brake fluid, can I just do that without anything to exercise the ABS, or will that leave old fluid in the ABS valve body?

Thanks,
Al

 

If you can find the Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant, I would use that. If not the regular green stuff works, try to get low phosphate. Try to get the stuff that's not already 50/50 mixed, then 2 Gallons of distilled water. Sorry I can't help on the brakes, not an expert on them.
Sean

 

A Gatorback belt is only about 30 bucks, and it's easy to change. If you are going to have the tranny flushed, get the cooling system flushed too, it doesn't really matter what they use for coolant, but the orange long life stuff does last longer than standard green. Just don't use GM Dexcool, that stuff is nasty. I don't see a need to flush brake fluid as a matter of routine. Suspension lube is only possible if it has grease fittings. Use only 5W20 oil and a good filter - Motorcraft preferred but whatever you do, do not use a Fram or Fram-made filter.

 

Thanks to all for suggestions....

I quit using Fram some time ago on my other vehicles, but thanks for the warning. Others may not have seen it. I'm not trolling, honest, but what about dino vs: synthetic oils? And my manual says 5W30. Plus I'm in Florida (it's over 90 today) so shouldn't I go with the 30W?

The manual calls for a tranny service at least once that isn't checked off, so I'm gonna do it as preventive maintenance just to be sure.

On the coolant, my manual specifically says not to use the Orange. Is that a characteristic of the "fail-safe" cooling?

Other vehicles I have owned suggest a brake fluid flush at two year intervals or so due to the fluid absorbing water and corroding the system. I figured the Ford brake system had multiple metals in it also and so any water absorption was a bad thing.

Al

 

Ford has superseded the 5W30 recommendation - it's now 5W20 going back to 1997. Any 5W20 oil, dino, semi, or synthetic, that meets Ford 930 specs is fine. If your manual says not to use orange coolant, then I wouldn't use it. Water is not going to get into the brake system unless you are constantly removing the master cylinder cap, if the fluid is clear and clean, it's fine. If it's getting dark and cloudy, then a flush would be a good idea.

Your 99 has a torque converter drain plug, so you could do a complete fluid change without using a flush machine. Drop the pan, change the filter, drain the TC.

However, if the coolant is nasty, I'd go get that done right with a flush machine.

 

First of all, bragging about a truck you just bought and not posting pics is considered a crime around here. Back to topic, I'll chime in for two not covered yet:

Air filter- I would recommend getting a K&N drop-in. That way instead of keeping to buy new filters over and over you can re-clean the K&N (saving you money) plus it supposedly adds more power. If you plan on modding you truck like the 99% of us here, you can get a CAI for around $200. Its a nice investment for about 5-10 horsepower and .5 mpg increased fuel economy.

Fuel Filters- I got mine at AutoZone for $13, plus you need to rent a 9/26 (I believe) Ford fuel line disconnect tool, for $10. You get your money back when you return it.

By the way, welcome to the site! Good to see another Floridian! what part are you from?

 

Thanks guys, partiularly the clarification on the 5W20. I've got some of that around, use it in my daughter's Hondas. But I'm beginning to think I'll just take the truck to an oil change place and get all the fluids done the first time. After that I can keep up with it one thing at a time. I was going to have the tranny service done, but maybe getting it all done "professionally" this time is a good idea. Note the professionally in quotes.....

 

Oh, yeah....calling me out about the pictures. Well, it was (really) used by a older (but maybe not much older than me) guy for short trips, thus the 5K per year mileage. It was pretty grungy, sat under some trees, had algae growing on the side of the hood where it meets the fenders, needed a polish, etc. The PO's son-in-law did a pretty good job with some wax, but I'm going to give it a once over and then I'll post a few pictures. It's also got a couple of fender dings I want to get fixed.

I'm in Melbourne, central east coast.

Al

 

I normally need to flush at least every two years, with my mountaineer they advise bleeding five spots, each caliper and the abs valve(?) first.

I'm normally replacing brake pads and sometimes rotors anyway, so it's the perfect time to get rid of skanky brake fluid.

 

Couldn't agree more on the Fram filters. They are junk. Go with a Wix from napa or Mobil 1. I use M1 filters and synthetic oil, I just feel better about synthetics, change it out every 5k.

 

If you use a oiled air filter such as a K&N, be prepared to clean the MAF frequently. The oil can foul it.

If you take it to an oil change place, first off, make sure they have 5W20, and find out what they use for filters. Most of them use private label filters made by Fram.

If you want a place that will do everything right (maybe) - there's a couple Mobil 1 Lube Express places in Palm Bay. They would be able to change out all your fluids, using synthetics if desired. and use a quality filter. I take mine to one here, I use Mobil 1 EP 5W20 with a Mobil 1 filter, and they just did my tranny and diff with BG synthetics last time in.

Just noticed - you have a LS diff - might not be a bad idea to get that done too after 10 years. 75W140 synthetic and friction modifier required.

 

Your truck is helluva young truck compared to mine...
I do my own oil and oil filter change so it shouldn't be that hard for you..
Also use 5w-20, well your choice, but I prefer it over 5w-30 when I changed it yesterday it felt smoother... Not sure if the lighter oils better but it seems good to me. Use the size 16 wrench for the oil change... and I always hand tighten my oil filter. I use synthetic blend oil btw..
Also do a Fuel Filter change, I did mine recently and the fuel going to my engine was black! There's a write up somewhere just google.. but the tool you'll need is KD 3321
Also clean the MAF and change out air filter if it's still stock...

That's about what I know... the rest.. I just took it to the shop..
Good luck with you and your truck

 

Did an oil change Mobil1 5W20 - wow is it quieter and smoother.
Flushed the cooling system, it was REALLY dirty.
Replaced the air filter. It wasn't too bad.
Got a fuel filter, haven't put it in yet.
Gonna flush the brakes - the fluid is brown.
I'll have a transmission service done for good measure. Here the dealer is cheaper than the independent tranny shops.
The second day I owned it the passenger rear door latch cable broke. Thanks to this forum I'm on the way to fixing that.
You guys have been a big help!

Al

 

thats what were here for! any plans on modding or will it be a stock DD (daily driver)?

 

Whats the point in owning a stock DD?