I took my 2000 F-150, 5.4L, 4x4 into the dealer for my last service before the warrany ran out(59,000 kms.). I asked them to check the brakes. They did and told me that the front rotors and hubs were seized together (exactly their wording). They said not to worry because Ford would replace the front rotors and hubs at their expense but I would have to pay the cost of the pads and installation. Now my questions are do you think the pads should be covered by Ford? Has any one had a similar problem? What would cause the hubs and rotors to seize?
P.S. On the work order they indicated that the complaint was that I had vibration when braking. I didn't experience that and I didn't tell them that. Is that just for Fords information with respect to the warranty work? Thanks

 

Check my website for repair instructions:
http://members.shaw.ca/pferlow/brake_repair.htm

The front rotors have a tight fit on the front hubs and when the rotor corrodes it's metal expands to make the fit even tighter. This is normal. It just makes it a *itch to get them off. It doesn't affect your brake performance at all.

I'm surprised the dealer is paying for rotors, however, they'll make the money back on the labour I'm sure. I prefer to do it myself.

Funny thing is I had a maintenance reminder card from the dealer indicating "front 4x4 hub service". Well... according to the Haynes service manual the front 4x4 hubs are sealed units and non-adjustable and the only repair is replacement! Ha ha ha. Dealers....ya right.

Usually pads & rotors are deemed expendable items and usually won't be replaced under warrantee. If the dealer has the proper rotor puller and a big f*cken hammer they should be able to get those rotors off without damaging the hubs, especially seeing as you have a newer model truck than I have. Then again, if you get new hubs AND rotors out of the deal go for it!

 

Thanks p_ferlow, I didn't mention that I had the work done last week. All they charged me for was the pads and the labour to install them(1 hour @ $72.00 per) Thank for your link detailing the front brake job. I'm not too handy in that area and I know if I started I would end up getting a tow to the dealer because it wouldn't go according to plan.

 

Wow... I'm impressed.... $72 bucks Canadian for that brake job. You my friend have found a good dealer.

I lost $330cdn to Dave Buck Ford for replacing one plug and ignition wire on a misfire out of warrantee.

 

You got a very good deal. I have replaced both my front hubs and rotors and did the work myself. I checked with Ford and while they wanted only 1 hour labor per side ($60), that parts were a killer expense. Hub from Ford $226 each, rotor $90 each, pads around $90 a set, right there you are at $842. I did it myself for under $650. First side it took me 5 hours as I really took my time and it rained on me several times, second side I attempted that night and had the wrong hub. Looked the same till I tried to slide it onto the splines and noticed it was about .060 to small and then that the ABS wire was different, took 2hrs to break it down, 60 seconds to find out that it's the wrong part and 1 hr to replace everything as I had to drive it.Next day I am getting good and it took 2 hours.

I was told by several here and then by my Ford dealer that they have problems getting the rotors off almost all 4x4's. Also, on some of the early 97's like mine, the center hole for the rotor was manufactured to small which makes for an even tighter fit. Either way the rotors sieze to the hubs very quicly and easy. It's a mixture of the constant heat cycles and harsh wet enviroment.

 

Hey KYFordFreak. Thanks for your reply. I didn't realize I had such a good deal. I was trying to get the cost of the pads and installation paid for too. I guess I'll just leave it alone. I'll be travelling through your beautifull state in about a month from now. We were there last year and loved it.. Thanks Pete.

 

You guys ever wonder if the extremely close fit with the rotor/hub is contributing to early hub failures because the hub is getting a lot of brake heat transferred to it?? (cooking the grease inside)

The front brakes on my wife's 92' VW GTI are similar. The rotor is also held on by the wheel/lugs. There is an extra philips screw that actually holds it on there when you remove the wheel. In any case, only the face of the rotor touches the spindle assembly, nothing more. Seems Ford kind of goofed in their design.

I guess it was the same engineer as the dumb *** who designed the bad T in the exhaust system.

 

Hi p_ferlow.. My dealer's name is Gallanger Ford in Milton and they took care of me pretty good on this hub/rotor replacement. They just told me that's what they were going to do and did it.
It seems that this seizing of the rotor to the hub is a common occurance. I hope I don't have to go through this every 50,000 kilometers. Is there any way to avoid this? I hope they put some sort of anti-seize compound on the hub to prevent this from happening again.
Even though I found a good dealer I don't think it's worth leaving beautiful British Columbia. Where are you in B.C.?

 

Home is West Vancouver.

I put anti-seize on the face of the hub. I think it's more of a trouble though that the rotor material corrodes and rusts and this stuff flakes off and wedges in there. I'm hoping the anti-seize will make it much easier to get off the next time.

I used a lot of wd40 to get the rotors off and a big sledge hammer and a little hammer. Soaked it good. Then used the small hammer to "ring" the rotor to get it to vibrate the rust/corrosion off, then more wd40 and finally a big hammer to smack it off. Not too bad.

I lived in Grimsby, ON from 79-86. "banana belt".

 

p_ferlow
I have thought about that issue. That in some cases that the rotor would transfer heat to the hub and not only melt the grease but literally scorch the bearings. When I did my hubs and you pull the hub out of the spindle there is a small amount of grease back there. On the drivers side I took a small amount of Coastel premium grease (I think the melt point is over 300 maybe 400 or higher) and rubbed some back in there. I thought about this issue and picked up some Valvaoline Synthetic, which is rated for almost every auto manufacture and for use in CV axles to use on the passenger side. I have a vibration in my truck that is totally confusing me. I plan to pull the front wheels off, mainly the dirver side and check that bearing. It may shot after only a couple months use, if it is bad I can't really same I could blame the grease or just a defective bearing. I used BCA/National bearings which are usually pretty good. They have a 1 year warranty and I work where I bought them (prices qouted above where standard price before discount, true total price is 20% less). If it came down to it I could probably send the hub off to BCA, and they could tell me if it was defective or a fault of mine or the trucks.
Maybe I could tear the old hub apart and take a close look at it, I never need that one again.

I can't believe you beat on your rotor like that and it was still usable. Did you use a block of wood or something? I tired a hard plastic mallet but it wouldn't budge. So then out same the sledge and first hit made a divet in the rotor. I figured the hell with it I am changing rotor anyway and pulled rotor and hub off together.

 

KYFordFreak:
Ha ha.... no, I didn't re-use the old rotors. Had new parts waiting to slip on so wasn't concerned. Yes, I too was surprised at how easy it was to put dents in the rotor with a good hammer.

Did you say you took apart 4x4 hubs & bearings inside?? I thought they were sealed units according to Haynes manual. I haven't actually looked at a hub closely though.

On a side-note, someone mentioned to use a torque wrench on the lug nuts for new rotors because you may get some warping easier if they aren't held on evenly.

Judging by some of the posts with rotor removal troubles I found it was easier than I expected. Didn't really have to "pound" on them much at all (worried for bearings!). Lots of wd40, from the inside where rotor slips on hub and spray into crack where lugs poke through rotor face. Turned the whole assembly to make sure wd40 got in everywhere. I let it soak about 15-20mins each time. Important to use a regular claw type hammer to smack it between lugs on the face of the rotor to get it to vibrate loose the rust.

 

p_ferlow
Oh, good you sort of worried me there for a second. These rotors and steel hammers of the contact surface do not mix your right. I tired about 1/2 a can of PB Blaster ( IMO, it's better at penetrating rust than WD40) and a little beating, gave up to soon probably.

No, I haven't taken one of the hubs apart but as Dad always told me, I could break an anvil if I tried. Just hought about cutting/tearing/beating the known bad one apart to see what it's like inside.

 

Ya, I read about that PB blaster stuff. Had a big'ol can of WD sitting in my workshop though.

I guess you tried rotating your tires front to back with that vibration? Could be tired ball joints or other front end components as well. Hard to check though for some items. Are you running larger rubber? I found going from the stock RT/S 265.70/17 to 275 AT/S (33" overall) that the extra inch is noticeable. Used to it now but I found at first the larger tires liked to wander a bit more. Slightly noisier too but tread is more aggressive.

I used to have an 82' Toyota 4x4 pickup and the 33" superswampers I had on there (bias ply ) really exaggerated the worn out steering knuckles on the front axle. Larger tires always beat on your front end components much harder than OE stuff. I can't imagine running anything larger than 35" with stock rotors. Even if you do the axle ratios stopping distances are much longer. These trucks are bad enough in the rain but the RT/S tires are like hockey pucks anyhow. Not much choice for 17" rims.

Hope you get that front end vibe sorted out low-cost. I'm still looking for a hi-po ignition wire set. Do you know if the 96-98 mustang 4.6L wires fit on the trucks like my 98'?

 

I am running 265/75/16 BFG's stock was 255//70/16's (not a true ORP). I originally had 285's but couldn't deal with the constant in and out of OD on the interstate. I later found out it would have been all right if I would have changed out the speedometer gear and possibly added some HP some where. It also had some shake to her and vibration did decrease when I dropped tire size. You are probably right, I probably do have some worn suspension parts, but everything seems tight. Any vibration in the front is minor and my true vibration/headache lies elsewhere somewhere between the tranny and rearend.

As for the the 96-98 Mustang wires I am not for sure. I want to say yes but wouldn't swear on it. I imagine the boots are the same but the length may differ. I personally am running the Accel wires and coil packs which are doing great so far, cost 185. I wanted Magnacore's but time limits and money constrants hindered that deal. I'll try to check an aftermarket set of wires for a 98 4.6 truck and 98 4.6 Mustang at work.

 

I have had rotors that would NOT soak off/pound off (road salt). I say if they are REALLY stuck, cut the rotor (hack saw, saw sall) and crack them off with hammer. Cut between ribs just short of cutting hub's, 180 deg apart and they will crack off with BIG hammer blow.Dealer tech in area gave me the tip. Real time saver if you are replacing rotors in the rust belt. Mark in Ohio