Someone on here told me I would have to cut the rotors off and when I took it to a dealer just to get a professional opinion they too said that they would have to cut them off. I can't imagine trying to use a hack saw on them. I didn't have a saw sall when I did mine but since I was taking the hubs out too, I just pulled hub and rotor off as one unit. I do not look foward to any future brake work as I will probably have to have the rotors turned while still mounted.

 

If cut between the ribs it's not bad. Only cast Iron...

 

Thanks for the tips. Here in B.C. they use some salt but we hardly ever get snow on the road being so close to the ocean keeps the temps mild here in Vancouver. They actually get a bit more rain/snow in Seattle, WA even though we are slightly higher up north. Sometimes I wonder about those people who think we live in igloos up here. Believe it or not, when I used to live in Grimsby, Ontario (very close to Buffalo, NY) I was walking down the main drag in the city and a VW Beetle pulled up with I think NY plates and with skiis on the roof rack asking where the snow was (in July 95degF!!). I told them they would need to drive non-stop another 24-48hrs north. Ha ha. Anyway....that sucks if you have to cut the rotors off. I suppose the metal can't be that hard seeing as a hammer blow causes quite a dent.

KYFordFreak: Was that $185 for wires and coil packs or just wires. Which model wires were they (thickness, etc)?
Do you think the mustang's used coil backs or earlier models had distributor? I suppose the 4.6L's must be fairly identical with coilpacks until they changed to coil on plug in 99 right?

Have you checked your tire pressures with that vibration? The Goodyear dealer had 45psi in my 275/17 AT/S tires. Wandered a bit with such a high pressure. Took a bit off, down to 40. Better now. Won't go less for the gas mileage.

Try getting your driveshaft balanced. I heard something about newer models getting larger diameter driveshafts.

I haven't noticed any big difference going one size up with the 17" rims. I did the airbox mod at the same time and that helped I think. Holds O/D longer now and lower gears at slow speeds before downshifting.

 

The $185 was for both coil packs and the wires too from Jegs. I paid 15 extra to have them overnighted, they were here before I expected and no problems with service. The wires are Accel super stock sipral core custom fit 8mm wires ( part# 5137B) at $75. The coil packs are Accel super stock tower type coil packs (Part#140018) at $55 each. They will fit any 4.6 up to the COP change over in 99. According to the Accel spec sheet I have they will fit on almost any 4.6 which includes Mustangs, crown vics, and thnderbirds dating back to 92. I am not for sure on the wires, you know the coil end has to have the same type of connector but lengths and actual boots might vary. As long as you order the part#'s above they will fit your 4.6. While the coils do provide around 3000-4000 more volts it is not worth switching to unless you are like me and just want any little bit you can get, so basically I did the coils for the heck of it. I did notice a little quicker throttle response and RPM's climbed faster but not a great deal.

If you want to see mine and F150 ram air's just check out this thread.
http://www.f150online.com/forums/sho...threadid=66852

The problems with my truck is not 1 huge thing it's more like several smaller things. I do need to recheck the tire pressure, but the vibration is does not feel tire related. It could be, but it would be more like a tire out of round or a bent wheel. It best not be a bent wheel as the only thing I have hit is potholes and if that bent one I do not want to own them. My truck is well taken care of but it's at the point where I think it may need some $ stuck into it. I guess I am to uptight about it and expect it to drive like a brand new one with 5000 miles. As far as I remember the driveshaft ordeal dealt with the aluminum driveshafts only and mine is diffently the ugly old rusted steel type. Just to be curious what are the costs of having one balanced? I have been told it's around $80-120.

 

I had a driveshaft balanced so many years ago I can't remember now. Your guesstimate sounds in the right ball-park though.

Hey... nice pics. Do those wires come in different colours? I was hoping to stuff some 10mm or similar wires on my motor. Perhaps if the Mustang wires fit then I'll just order some of those 300+ wires.

Before I do I'll take a trip down to the dealer and have a look at a set of truck wires next to a set of mustang wires. That should take care of any doubts. I'll let you know.

Thanks.

 

p_ferlow
Thanks for the compliment. Yeah, check to see if you can get the 300+'s. When I did mine about 3 moths ago, I was short on time and did not find any listed ( of course I didn't even check the Mustang, stupid me). If yo udo find them I would say it will be some major $$$ to get'em. As faf as I know the Accel super stock for the 4.6 only come in blue but I could be wrong you may try calling/emailing Jeg's, Summit, or even Accel.
On the 10mm bit, remember it is a tight fit to get some of these wires in and also the factory wire looms will not hold anything bigger. Even though my Accel's are still the 8mm fatory size, they seem to fit much tight, don't know why but they do. I will warn you one fact I didn't like at the start is on the coil end they only have one clip vs the OEM 2 clips. So far there is no problems and they snap on really tight, so I don't think that will be a problem.
Good luck, let us know what you find.

This is also some good reading (a bit product biased) here at:
www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm

I know these are supposed to be really good and a few on this board have them.

 

Yes, I know about those Magnecore wires. Checked out their website and read everything a couple of weeks ago.

F*ckin expensive though!! Almost cost as much as a NOS setup and you get what.... 2hp maybe.

Nice wires though. I didn't look at the Superstock Accel wires at the parts store.... the $190 cdn price put me off. Figured for that I should be able to get something better than OE diameter. (not to knock'em too much).

I gotta get down to the dealer and look at some Mustang wires.

Take care.

 

Playing around today and took a quick look on our computer at work (Advance) according to it there must be a difference somewhere or the wires. I searched for a 97-98 Mustang and 97-98 F150. They came up with different part#'s for Xact wires ( by GP Sorenson), different for Autolites, and different Motorcraft #'s. I did find that the 97 T-bird uses the same as the F150. I know one thing now... do not ever buy a Lincoln. 97 Conteninatel (sp) was like 155... for the cheap set! Probably no difference than any other F150 or Mustang 4.6. I did not get to pull any sets to actually see the difference. Will check again with more time.

 

Do you work at a dealer or parts place? That would save me some time if you can check it out. Most excellent!

Crazy how Lincoln parts are twice $ Ford parts.

I have Autolite Platinum Pro's (double platinum) sitting here on my desk waiting for wires.

 

I like those MSD coil packs. Anyone got a price and how good they work yet?

I work for Advance Auto Parts (not the best, but not bad). I was going to pull a 97,98 Mustang and F150 wire set but the frigging wire set for the Mustang is around 150 just like the dang Lincoln and my store doesn't even carry it in stock. The next time someone pulls in with a newer Mustang I am going to ask to look under their hood. I want to see just how all of this is setup and why it's so much more costly on the Mustang. I will also try to write down and bring home the actual parts list which will be Xact's (Advance's main brand) or Autolites and a few Motorcraft's. Maybe the only similarities are the coil packs.

So you have the Autolite Platinum Pro's ready to go in. I think that is what Autolite lists as an OE equivilant. Have you heard/read much about them and how they perform in the 4.6L. I need to change the plugs in mine but hate dealer prices but I want a good working plug and I also like to know what works good in what for my customers. To me some plugs work better in certain vehicles than others. Take for example if it's a GM product I recommend an AC Delco for stock replacement even if I know I could sell something higher priced, or a NGK for a import. I like Advance but half the time wind up getting my parts else where as we do not carry what I want. My top choices so far were the Autolites, Denso Iridum's, and Motorcraft's. Autolites easy to get and good price, Denso great plug but expensive, and the Motorcraft's work well but are expensive.

 

I bought the Autolite platinum pro's because they're one step up from Ford OE plugs (single platinum). The OE plugs work pretty good as far as I can tell so the autolites with platinum on both electrodes should work even better. Last longer anyhow. I've run Bosch platinum plugs on my old 90 Ranger and various newer Vdubs and I find the extremely thin platinum electrode actually wears down with use increasing the spark gap. The autolites have a much thicker electrode.

I haven't heard of many good reviews of the Bosch Platinum 4's and I suspect it's because that particular plug has 4 outer electrodes that could possible impede igniting the mixture properly. In the old days of racing air-cooled Vdubs we used to mark the plugs so that the open part of the plug was facing into the largest part of the combustion chamber, adding or removing gaskets as necessary. From what I remember it made quite a difference if the outer electrode was not between the centre electrode and the larger part of the combustion chamber.

I hope mustang wire set is thicker than F150 stuff, for the price. Let us know what you find out.

 

Ok here's the rundown on what I have found
Mustang 96-?? ( book only went 98, think they went to COP design in 01)
16 valve engine- Xact brand 3316, Motorcraft WR-5875
32 valve engine- Xact brand 3321, Motorcraft WR-5938

Accel super stock fits vin w with the SOHC part# 5139B

Accel coil for all 4.6L's is the part# 140018, this includes the 92+ T-bird, the Crown Vic, and the 96-?? Mustang

OE replacement coil from GP Sorenson is a GC427 (just like on the 4.6 F150)
__________________________________________________ __
F150 97-01 4.6
Xact brand 3303, Motorcraft WR-5934
Accel super stock wires part# 5137B
Accel coil part# 140018

OE coil type coil is the GC427
My computer and book are wrong or I am mistaken but according to the info the two different 4.6L's in 97 (Vin W=Romeo and Vin 6=Windsor) had different ignition systems on them. According to the book my 97 Vin 6 Windsor motor should have a coil on plug type. That is totally incorrect and mine has the two four tower style coil pack setup. To my knowledge the 4.6 in the F150 uses the tow coil pack setup up untill 01.

So according to the part#'s the coils are interchangeable and all the coil end connections have to be the same. So that means the only difference must come in either the length or the actual sprak plug boot style. I do not have the Mustang sets instock so I not able to look at them right now. Hope this helps someone, we might need to move this thread to the engine forum where it can be found.Contact me if I can do more.

I also took a look at the Autolite Platnium Pros, the Bosch, and a Champion platnium. Your right the Autolite looks like the best choice out that mix. The Bosch is thin and I do not like the electrode and the Champion is only a single platnium and is a cheap plug. I want to see a NGK Iridum in person before I shell out $6-8 each. Anyone good plugs you have heard about?