Well, having been around here for over 10 years, and not contributing much of anything useful, here is my attempt at a How-To for Oil Pan & Pump.

Something most of us here at F150online.com may have to do is replace timing chains, tensioners and guides. If any of those components break, you would be foolish not to drop the pan and clean out the debris. Not doing so is foolish, IMO. Having been in this exact situation, I decided to drop the pan and replace the Oil Pump. I followed the Ford Service Information Manual. If you open your timing cover and see this, you should drop the pan. You must take off the timing cover, chains, crank sprocket, etc, to replace the oil pump. Tools I used: 3/8" pneumatic impact, assorted sockets and ratchets, 13 mm wobble socket for oil pan, torque wrench, Permatex black RTV, brake clean, floor creeper, zip ties, scissor jack, floor jack, wood blocks or jack stands, razor blade, shop towels. Time for this job is difficult to estimate. I would approximate it at 3 hours.




Here is my "How To".

1 Jacked up front of vehicle and rested it on wood blocks so that the front tires were about 2" off the ground. This gave me adequate clearance to move around under the truck. Of course, a lift would be preferred.

2 Drain engine oil (should have already drained if timing cover is off)

3 Remove skid plate (if installed)

4 Remove 4 bolts and the frame crossmember. Soak these a day or two before hand with Kroil or equivalent to aid in removal. Mine were not a problem. I think the skid plate kept them from getting too bad.



5 Detach the starter wiring harness support bracket ( Either I don't have one or I couldn't find it.)

6 Position a jack under the front axle. I used a floor jack under the differential and the F150's scissor jack under the axle housing passenger side. I had just enough room for my crawler to fit between the two jacks.



7 With the Axle supported by the jacks remove the upper front axel carrier mounting bushing bolt. The manual calls for rotating the steering column for access. I did not have a problem here. Note: power steering pump has been removed



8 Remove the passenger side axle carrier housing bolt. ( The manual calls for removing a third bolt, I did not need to do this.)



9 Lower Axle on passenger side first. If you can, use the scissor jack here. I found it very easy to lower the axle using only my hand on the jacks worm gear. Lower it about 2" as shown below.









10 Drop the drivers side an inch or so. I have read where some have lowered only the passenger side. I had enough room dropping the drivers side as described.


11 Disconnect the oil sending harness from the passenger side of oil pan.

12 Using wire zip ties or equivalent, pull this mess aside as shown. (I did not realize this when removing the pan.)







I didn't realize this initially.

13 Remove the 12 bolts. (there are 16, but this is assuming you have the timing cover already off)


14 The oil pan should come right out. Drop and slide to rear. The gasket has a white silicone "insert" that will seperate from the black plastic. Be careful not to damage the gasket. It may stick to the silicone bead. Work it loose easily as the Gasket is re-usable. Inspect gasket for damage. Clean out oil pan. Note what debris you find and decide where it came from. I let my pan drain overnight. Aside from Chain Guide pieces, there was just about zero fine debris within, ie: metal shavings, etc.

15 Remove the pick up tube bolt just above the screen. You can remove the 2 bolts holding the pick up tube to the pump, but I removed it together. You can't see the bolt here but it is just above the screen.



16 Remove the 3 bolts on front of oil pump. Note how the old pump is seated on the crankshaft, make sure the new one gets seated the same way.

17 Gently pull straight out, as you encounter some resistance, rotate the pump clockwise about 90 degrees and gently work and pull forward. It should come right out in one assembly.






18 On the new pump and pick up tube, Take a new O-Ring, lubricate with clean engine oil and place on pick up tube that mates to pump and bolt up (89in lbs) the pick up tube to the pump. ***(If you are using the old pick-up tube or a new one, replace the O-ring between the pick-up tube and the pump) Position the new oil pump. Slide it in with pick up screen at the 9 O clock and rotate it counter clock wise when you feel resistance. Just the reverse of how it was removed. You will most likely have to cajole the 'keyway' of the pump impeller to the crankshaft. This took me a while, but I got it. If you took out the pump and pick up tube together, put it back the same way. If you put the whole assembly in, you will know if it is seated properly because the pick up tube to spacer bolt will line up with the crankcase threads. Torque the three pump bolts to 89 in lbs. (The 4th bolt will be installed & torqued with LH Timing Chain Guide) Bolt up the pick up screen end, 18 ft lbs.



19 Clean all surfaces where oil pan mates to block. Ensure gasket is clean and free of blemishes and defects. Remove old silicone at the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate to cylinder block sealing surface and up front where the timing cover, block, and oil pan meet.

20 Apply sealant at the 'four corners'
21 place gasket over the pan, tabs down, and bolt up 'hand tight'. Working from the mid point of oil pan out, torque the pan in three stages.
stage 1 tighten to 18 in lbs
stage 2 tighten to 15 ft lbs
stage 3 tighten an additional 60 degrees (I could only get about 20 degrees, the bolts were bottomed out)

Getting the pan back up was difficult as space is tight with those 2 jacks under there with you.

22 Remove the zip ties
23 Slowly jack up the drivers side, if needed to align for the bolt. Insert bolt, start the bolt to hold the axle.



24 Jack up the passenger side until the housing aligns with the bracket, insert bolt. Torque both bolts to 66 ft lbs. You may need to assist back into place with a pry bar.



25 Position the frame cross-member and the 4 bolts, torque to 75 ft lbs. Reinstall skid plate if applicable.



26 After installing a new oil filter and filling crankcase with oil, Prime the oil pump by cranking the engine, no more than 15 seconds at a time. You can disconnect the Crank sensor for this or hold the accelerator to the floor ( I am told).

Cheers.

 

Feel free to comment, question or critique the above

 

Good Write-up! Thanks for the effort! I hope I don't have to dig into mine!

 

How is that high pressure oil pump working? I'm thinking of going this route too when I do my timing chains.

 

This truck has never ran/ sounded this good and I am still running stock tune. I would like to think this pump has something to do with it as it was not cheap.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yeah at a 150 bucks I would hope it helps this motor out. Sounds like I'll be doing the same to mine and upgrading to this high pressure pump.

Thanks again.

 

I ended up getting the FRPP oil pump as it was high pressure and high volume and was cheaper... time to do all my timing and oil pump change when my parts come in..

 

Good luck!

 

Nice writeup.

 

Thanks!

 

If you remove the pickup tube from the pump it should have a replacement Oring installed.


Nice write up!

 

Yes! If that O-ring is compromised it will cause 'frothing' of the oil and cause pressure problems. Just like an air leak on the straw of your milkshake.

 

@nu-supercrew , just wondering if you have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and have an idea of difference in before / after pressures under various operating conditions?
I'm collecting parts for the job also (including Melling 10340). I have jotted pressure readings down and will post my before and after readings when I'm done. While I don't consider mine really slouchy, just taking the extra precaution and am very curious.

 

I did not take any reading and do not have a real oil pressure gauge. However, that would be very interesting and informative. What pressure do you have now?

 

Well, you know, oil pressure is kinda a fluid thing. (no pun intended). lol Sorta depends on multiple things, so here goes. The truck has 212,000 miles - has been well maintained and no major repairs (yet - but Timing job is coming).


Right now, I'm running 5w30 Full Syn Mobil 1. Temp around here (San Antonio, TX) is sorta a cool 40-43 degrees. When I crank her up cold - it idles in neutral way up around 73 to 75 lbs till it idles down (30 secs) to around normal 600-625 R's then holds at 65-68. In gear or using 5w20 don't make any difference under these conditions. @ 2000 rpms - its pegged at 75 to 80 lbs.


Now FULL ENGINE OPERATING temperature on a warm winter day (70-80 deg, like later this week!), with 5w30, in gear, w A/C running, it will idle (590 - 610 R's) at 21 lbs pressure +/- 1. with 5w20 - about 17-18 lbs. On 100 degree summer days, both will be 1 lb less. BUT It JUMPS smartly with any rpm increase - to 45lb range by 800-900 rpms. @ 2000 it is running a solid 65 lbs. Cruising 55 mph it's running 17-1800 rpms and about 55 lbs.


I'm going to see what the Melling 10340 does (for curiosity sake). They "claim" it is high volume. Without changing anything else - fluid dynamics dictates that moving more fluid through the same restriction should result in increased pressure. HOWEVER - I am not advocating that more pressure is a life or death matter for these motors. Actually, what I have now is probably just fine. But I hope to drive this thing another 200,000 miles and hope the 10340 helps achieve that.