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  #1  
Old 05-29-2010, 04:20 PM
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5.4 3V Chain Jumped? P0340

I Have a 2004 F150 with a 2008 5.4 3v, wont idle- P0340- after $400 at ford I stopped , they said likely plugged up journals- $1000 + to fix- I dont thik so. I think it is a timing chain off 1 tooth on rt bank 2, ford Hotline concurs possible- I pulled the valve cover- clean as can be- 46k miles- is there a way to check timing alignment w/o pulling the front cover off? or any other suggestions?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2010, 09:45 PM
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p0340= camshaft position sensor a circuit bank 1

try changing that sensor first very cheap around $12
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  #3  
Old 05-31-2010, 03:57 AM
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I guess I should have gone a little farther on the explanation- I have been fighting this for a month now. Changed Both sensors- changed crank sensor and VCT solenoids. had ford Reprogram the PCM, no change- replaced the PCM, no change- They traced the circuit as I did convinced that was the issue- couldnt figure it out- so they called hotline- Hotline said Either jumped chain or plugged up oil journals on bank 2. Dealer said latter most likely and wanter $1000 plus to tear it down and find out- no guarantees though, thats when I started going through the forums more diligintly.

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  #4  
Old 05-31-2010, 10:54 AM
glc glc is offline
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Try an AutoRX oil treatment.

http://www.auto-rx.com/

Use the sludged engine procedure.
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2003 F-150 XL RCSB 2wd 4.2 M5OD 3.55 LS
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  #5  
Old 05-31-2010, 05:36 PM
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I would doubt the timing chain jumped a tooth if I remember correctly that is an interference engine and if it had jumped a tooth u probably would not have any engine left, just not real sure on that but there are people here that do known.
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  #6  
Old 06-01-2010, 06:34 AM
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You can be off one tooth and not bend a valve however it would be extremely rare for the chain to jump. About the only way these engines can get out of time is if someone installs the chain out of time after a rebuild or repair.
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2010, 11:37 PM
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Thanks for the replies
This engine came from a wrecked 2008 Expedition- 46k, clean internally- I just pulled the left cover and inspected the cam vct sprocket- center tab is lined up with the L. Is it possible the wreck caused it to jump? is there a way to check w/o tearing down the front of the engine- the Ford mechanic said the VCT PID Readings were erratic of 695 degrees whereas if the phazer is damaged could cause this or base timing is off according to the Ford Hotline. The chain is tight, so I dont see how it could have jumped either. So i am at a loss.
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  #8  
Old 06-02-2010, 08:30 AM
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Start with basics. Do a leakdown and or compression test and see if the numbers are close for both banks. You have to be sure that base engine has not been compromised first or you'll just be chasing your tail. Anytime I have a question on the timing I pull the front cover and check all timing marks or just retime myself so I know its in. You can have both timing marks lined up at the cams and be off at the crank. A lot can happen in an accident that would defy all normal logic to your condition. In other words after an accident anything is possible including jumped timing.
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:59 AM
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I have the same error and the same issue. The ford tech said the chain is off 1 tooth. It idles like crap and has no power. Same code and I have changed both cam position sensors. I am just trying to figure out if it will be cheaper to get a new motor or fix the issue. The tech I spoke with said it is likely a bad hydraulic tensioner. He suggested at the very least I pull the front of the motor and replace those. And in his next breath he said If it was him he would replace all of the timing components and the vcts.
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  #10  
Old 06-02-2010, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspec View Post
I have the same error and the same issue. The ford tech said the chain is off 1 tooth. It idles like crap and has no power. Same code and I have changed both cam position sensors. I am just trying to figure out if it will be cheaper to get a new motor or fix the issue. The tech I spoke with said it is likely a bad hydraulic tensioner. He suggested at the very least I pull the front of the motor and replace those. And in his next breath he said If it was him he would replace all of the timing components and the vcts.
Well it depends on your miles for some of the front components like chain guides which should last for several hundred thousand miles. But I would agree with him that while you have the front cover off replace the tensioners for sure. Keep in mind that a soft chain tensioner will not always allow the chain to jump a tooth I've seen the chains flopping around out of control and had been for a long time and the engine was still in time. One thing that I'm surprised I don't hear of very often here is a complaint of a follower falling off. When a lash adjuster goes bad it can allow the follower to pop off which will give you poor idle and drivability issues. An intake follower will give you basicly a dead cyl but an exhaust follower off is less noticable. I used to always remove the cam covers and look for displaced followers when we recieved dealer returns with drivability concerns. Many times that was the cause. Codes are great but the cam sensor codes seem to pop up a lot for various reasons and are rarely the root cause. I would explore fixing your engine before getting a new one as the timing is not that difficult to do if that is in fact the problem. Just be sure to perform a cyl leakdown test whenever you suspect that a valve may have made contact with a piston regardless of the reason.
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  #11  
Old 06-03-2010, 10:08 PM
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The odd thing is it will idle and run ok with the cam sensor unplugged- open loop mode I believe. Plug it in, surges and dies. Does this sound at all familiar?

Thanks
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  #12  
Old 06-05-2010, 05:57 AM
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Pull the cam sensor and see if there are any metal shavings or metal of any kind attached to the magnet at the end of it or if the tip of the sensor is broken.
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2010, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khackr View Post
The odd thing is it will idle and run ok with the cam sensor unplugged- open loop mode I believe. Plug it in, surges and dies. Does this sound at all familiar?

Thanks
If that is true and it works for me. I will just run the truck that way until the motor dies .
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  #14  
Old 06-08-2010, 06:50 PM
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Well it kinda works . Truck is not stalling anymore but horrible gas mileage and still no power. I picked up a 08 3 valve today. Looks like a fun swap.
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  #15  
Old 06-14-2010, 09:33 PM
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Let me know how that works for you- mine was from a 2008 expedition. I have another ford dealer trieng to help now.
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:33 PM


 
 
 
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