Details:
2012 F150 EB Platinum Screw 6.5' box 3.73 gears 74,000 miles

Recent Changes:
Tranny flush at dealer 2 weeks ago
Oil and filter this past sunday (done myself Penz Ultra Platinum)
Spark Plugs this past sunday (myself, motorcraft plugs)
Truck filled with 89 octane
Intalled MPT 87 tow tune after all maintenance done I took it out for a test drive for about 30 minutes, great improvement, truck felt snappy and shifted like a tow vehicle should

Problem:
The truck is my wife's DD that she uses for hauling kids and spends each weekend hitched to a 8,000 lb horse trailer. She hopped in it this morning to go hitch up the trailer and said it cranked but didn't start, then started and died right away telling her there was no oil pressure. I had her return truck to stock tune and still doing the same thing. I was able to swing by as I was in the area for work and was able to reproduce the problem. I think the oil pressure is just a function of the engine dying because I checked the oil and it is fine. Truck cranks over but acts like it's not getting fuel. I didn't have time to get a meter on any of the fuses but I pushed all of them down as a few were kind of loose. Didn't help.

Are these trucks known for fuel pumps going out? I never had a fuel issue with my 02. Could it be a plugged fuel filter? are those just on the frame rail also? don't know a whole lot about the turbo scene so I'm just grasping at straws as to why this happened. Thanks for any help

 

Fuel filter is in the tank, supposedly a "lifetime" part. Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the key on?

 

When you changed plugs did you disconnect the high pressure fuel pump on the drivers side rear of engine? If so maybe you didn't snap it back in all the way and it worked itself loose?? Just a thought.

GLC is right on the filter, Its inside the tank and supposedly you change it when you change the pump.. Great idea ford! Not!!!!!

Good Luck and keep us updated

 

Well got home and tried it in the driveway where it sat since lunch. Had wife turn on key, sounds like rail is pressuring up, and connector was fine on the booster pump but thanks for that suggestion. wife tried cranking it two times for about a minute each, turns over fine but either no spark or no fuel either way it's not popping off. I tried it once, same thing. tried again and it lightly fired. on the third try the engine started and ran long enough to drive 30 feet back into the garage, while letting it idle in the garage it started losing RPMs and stuttering, low oil pressure light came on as engine died. Unable to start again. it's good on oil and I read the code after it died without turning off key and it pops up P00C6 fuel rail pressure too low engine cranking. I did not erase the codes, just turned off the key. When I hook the SCT up to the the truck now and turn the key on, no codes. very frustrating. I'm going to start checking fuses for the fuel delivery system, anyone know offhand which ones those are since my owners manual is in French (Canada truck prior to me owning it) N/M I can go to fleet website

 

I did disconnect the battery while doing spark plugs and found this now in the owner manual, but it's not a flex fuel motor so I wouldn't think #7.3 applies. Whenever I take for a drive after maintenance I always let it run for about 5 minutes and then go drive, but did not do these exact steps, could it be something this simple? Why would it occur 3 days afterword? we have put roughly 75 miles on the truck since Sunday.

Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer,
some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When
the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must
relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and
performance. Flexible fuel vehicles (FFV) must also relearn the ethanol
content of the fuel for optimum driveability and performance. To begin
this process:
1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with
the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for
at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy along with the ethanol content
for flexible fuel vehicles.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle
quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle
trim is eventually relearned.
• For flexible fuel vehicles, if you are operating on E85, you may
experience poor starts or an inability to start the engine and driveability
problems until the fuel trim and ethanol content have been relearned.

 

Failure to relearn should not prevent it from starting and running fairly well. You have a fuel delivery issue somewhere in the system.

 

Thanks GLC, that's my thinking too. Unfortunately since construction season is ramping up and the wife needs something to drive in going to have to shell out the money to tow it 15 miles to the dealer and have them look at it. All fuses checked out good but there are also like 3-4 relays for fuel system and I don't know how to check then beyond just swapping them for the same type in the box. I'll let everyone know how it turns out

 

Update: Dealer apparently found what was wrong. I guess there is a fuel pump control module located near the spare tire and that had corroded to the point that it was rendered useless. He said they are starting to see a few of them on 09/10 models but this was the first 12 MY he had come across with this problem. The road salt is wicked here in WI, my 02 didn't have any rust on it at all when we moved here and after the first winter the box and cab had begun rusting. Also he said the spare tire winch is siezed up as well but I will work that one out myself. Anyway, when all is said and done it will be $320 to fix including the tow, so can't complain at all about getting out of the dealer money pit for less than $500. Hopefully this really is the fix and hope this helps anyone else who experiences a similar issue.

 

The FPDM strikes again........

 

Thanks for closing the loop, glad it's fixed. As your owners manual is in French and the truck is Canadian, it likely came from Quebec. They are heavy salters up there too.

 

WOW... FPDM was a big issue on the prior generation. I would have thought they fixed it by now.

BSL - look in the 2004-2008 forum for tons of information on this.

I used to carry a spare FPDM in my center console of my 2004 F150 (luckily I never needed it... I had already removed, cleaned, greased, and re-installed the original FPDM with custom stand-offs).

I also have a 2012 Ecoboost... maybe its time to buy another one and carry it around.

 

some one suggested to me to spray the whole unit with that sealant that'
s on tv where the guy drills the holes in the boat and uses the spray to seal the holes