Should I change transmission fluid-Read this:
#1
Should I change transmission fluid-Read this:
I have a 2005 F150 scab. I bought it used and it now has 41,000 miles. I am going to be pulling a 23 travel trailer a lot this year. I was going to flush the transmission myself using the article from Ford Truck Enthusiasts that everbody has referred to then I found this article.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/specs/2004/2004_f150_2.html
It says with the 4R75E transmission the fluid should last the lifetime of the truck. What is your guys opinion? I was going to flush it out and replace with Mobil 1 synthetic.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/specs/2004/2004_f150_2.html
It says with the 4R75E transmission the fluid should last the lifetime of the truck. What is your guys opinion? I was going to flush it out and replace with Mobil 1 synthetic.
#3
#4
Can you do the same flush yourself in the driveway using the post everyone has used? Has anyone tried this in their driveway on a 2004 or newer transmission? I hate to let any of the moron mechanics at my local dealerships touch my truck.
I had an issue with the vacuum hoses on the 4wd while in warranty and it took them 3 trips and keeping my vehicle for a week. I told them about the tsb I saw on here then they fixed it in a day.
I know how they can use bulk fluid and put cleaning stuff in there that I don't want.
I had an issue with the vacuum hoses on the 4wd while in warranty and it took them 3 trips and keeping my vehicle for a week. I told them about the tsb I saw on here then they fixed it in a day.
I know how they can use bulk fluid and put cleaning stuff in there that I don't want.
#5
When my '07 was still brand new, at or about 3,000 miles, my local Ford dealer flushed out the factory filled Mercon & replaced it with Royal Purple. I also replaced the OEM MotorCraft motor oil and rear differential gear oil with Royal Purple. I also swapped out the MotorCraft oil filter with a K&N. It could just be psychosomatic, but I seem to think that the truck is running & shifting better. It won't hurt you to dump the old ATF & replace it with a high grade synthetic. Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Lucas Oil......they're all good. Read enough of these forums, and you'll find all sorts of opinions from different people as to why they feel that one brand is superior. However, you won't find any testimonials as to any one of these name brands being inferior. I have yet to hear of a failure directly related to the use of these fluids. Even MercedesTech pointed out that engine sludge in the Mercedes engines was caused by the long oil change interval recommended by Mercedes, and not the Mobil 1 oil. I wonder what Toyota's excuse is for sludge in their engines.
#6
Originally Posted by Fifty150
When my '07 was still brand new, at or about 3,000 miles, my local Ford dealer flushed out the factory filled Mercon & replaced it with Royal Purple. I also replaced the OEM MotorCraft motor oil and rear differential gear oil with Royal Purple. I also swapped out the MotorCraft oil filter with a K&N. It could just be psychosomatic, but I seem to think that the truck is running & shifting better. It won't hurt you to dump the old ATF & replace it with a high grade synthetic. Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Lucas Oil......they're all good. Read enough of these forums, and you'll find all sorts of opinions from different people as to why they feel that one brand is superior. However, you won't find any testimonials as to any one of these name brands being inferior. I have yet to hear of a failure directly related to the use of these fluids. Even MercedesTech pointed out that engine sludge in the Mercedes engines was caused by the long oil change interval recommended by Mercedes, and not the Mobil 1 oil. I wonder what Toyota's excuse is for sludge in their engines.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
#10
Originally Posted by Galaxy
That was with the stock cooler (POS), up hill, converter not locked, in the summer!! Now with my new SD cooler I can't even get the thing to overheat above 210* with the converter unlocked. I've even tried...it wont go!
And to think I start to panic when I see my guage hit 170. Around town it is normally at 135 and when I plow around 150. It hit 170 a few times on the freeway driving 70 with the plow on, something that ford and BOSS say you should not do.
Does anyone know they thermo breakdown of stock motorcraft fluid? I am going to switch to royal purple in about 1000 miles when I take it in to get done. To me its cheep piece of mind for the way I treat my truck.
#11
#12
Originally Posted by Nico
Does anyone know they thermo breakdown of stock motorcraft fluid? I am going to switch to royal purple in about 1000 miles when I take it in to get done.
Here is the Royal Purple ATF info:
Typical Properties*
Viscosity
cSt @ 40°C 32.4
cSt @ 100°C 7.4
SUS @ 100°F 272.8
SUS @ 210°F 63.2
@ -10°C (14°F) 568
@ -20°C (-4°F) 1200
@ -30°C (-22°F) 2868
@ -40°C (-40°F) 7934
Viscosity Index 197.5
Flash °F 450
Fire °F 490
Foam Test
Sequence I 0 ml / 0 ml
Sequence II (4 sec.) 10 ml / 0 ml
Density
A.P.I. 37.8
Specific Gravity @ 60°F 0.8358
Pounds / Gallon 6.96
Copper Corrosion
3 hrs. @ 210°F 1a
*All Properties Are Typical and May Vary
#13
Hey, I have the same setup and went through h... trying the do it yourself way.
So any way, I later went to work for a company which offers flushing equipment and allowed me a flush as part of my training. I can tell you that on my truck it required some power braking to get the trans fluid to flow, it just does not move too well at idle. If you have a lift you can pick up the drive wheels to let em spin also. I am told this system has a thermostatically controlled trans cooling loop that restricts flow 'til warm, maybe someone in the forum knows where the t-stat is.
So any way, I later went to work for a company which offers flushing equipment and allowed me a flush as part of my training. I can tell you that on my truck it required some power braking to get the trans fluid to flow, it just does not move too well at idle. If you have a lift you can pick up the drive wheels to let em spin also. I am told this system has a thermostatically controlled trans cooling loop that restricts flow 'til warm, maybe someone in the forum knows where the t-stat is.
#14
Originally Posted by Fifty150
When my '07 was still brand new, at or about 3,000 miles, my local Ford dealer flushed out the factory filled Mercon & replaced it with Royal Purple. I also replaced the OEM MotorCraft motor oil and rear differential gear oil with Royal Purple. I also swapped out the MotorCraft oil filter with a K&N. It could just be psychosomatic, but I seem to think that the truck is running & shifting better. It won't hurt you to dump the old ATF & replace it with a high grade synthetic. Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Lucas Oil......they're all good. Read enough of these forums, and you'll find all sorts of opinions from different people as to why they feel that one brand is superior. However, you won't find any testimonials as to any one of these name brands being inferior. I have yet to hear of a failure directly related to the use of these fluids. Even MercedesTech pointed out that engine sludge in the Mercedes engines was caused by the long oil change interval recommended by Mercedes, and not the Mobil 1 oil. I wonder what Toyota's excuse is for sludge in their engines.
#15
Originally Posted by risupercrewman
How many quarts does the 2007 take with a 5.4 3v motor?......I might do this also!.....
In my manual, it said 13.9 quarts. But the MOC Flush Machine used by my dealership requires 16 quarts to operate. Don't just settle for dropping the pan and swapping out 5 or 6 quarts. Your truck is brand new. You don't need to drop the pan. There is nothing wrong with your filter or gasket. Just have them use the flush machine so that all of your OEM fluids are vacuumed out and replaced. Good luck & have fun with picking out your replacement fluids. Red Line, Lucas Oil, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1 - quite a selection out there. Do your own research and pick one that you feel comfortable with - not just because you've heard it mentioned.