2007 5.4 Triton 3 Valve Spark Plug Help
#1
2007 5.4 Triton 3 Valve Spark Plug Help
Okay I searched and did not pull up a thread for this, but I have a 2007 f150 super crew xlt with the 3 valve 5.4 triton engine. I bought my truck used and it has about 143,XXX miles on it. It needs a tune up and I want to change out the spark plugs but I am well aware of the notorious broken plug issue with the triton engines.
I have talked to different mechanics and all of them have quoted me at around $500 plus tax to replace the plugs with new motorcraft SP515 plugs.
I don't want to spend that much money (I usually do all of my own maintenance unless it requires serious shop work). I know of the plug socket tool that retails from $25-$50 plus can get all 8 SP515 plugs for $100 total. I've watched videos of guys putting seafoam through the throttle bodies to reduce the carbon in the engine which causes the plugs to seize and then using the plug tool to remove/replace the spark plugs.
My question: Is it worth trying to do myself with the spark plug tool/seafoam treatment or should I put the money towards having a mechanic replace the plugs for $500?
Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I have talked to different mechanics and all of them have quoted me at around $500 plus tax to replace the plugs with new motorcraft SP515 plugs.
I don't want to spend that much money (I usually do all of my own maintenance unless it requires serious shop work). I know of the plug socket tool that retails from $25-$50 plus can get all 8 SP515 plugs for $100 total. I've watched videos of guys putting seafoam through the throttle bodies to reduce the carbon in the engine which causes the plugs to seize and then using the plug tool to remove/replace the spark plugs.
My question: Is it worth trying to do myself with the spark plug tool/seafoam treatment or should I put the money towards having a mechanic replace the plugs for $500?
Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
#2
#3
Don't know your situation or abilities.
#4
Like GLC said! Use the nastiest carb/choke cleaner spray you can find. Do not do it on a hot truck. 1/8 turn only then 1/2 fill the well with the carb cleaner and _walk away_. Leave this for a couple of hours. Slow steady torque then on your ratchet..
Did the last 2 5.3's this way and never broke a plug. Makes some horrible sounds coming out, but they came out. What you're doing is move the plug just off its seat, the carb cleaner is _the_ best product to desolve carbon. Over an hour or more, it slowly seeps down the threads and softens the carbon on the extension.
Did the last 2 5.3's this way and never broke a plug. Makes some horrible sounds coming out, but they came out. What you're doing is move the plug just off its seat, the carb cleaner is _the_ best product to desolve carbon. Over an hour or more, it slowly seeps down the threads and softens the carbon on the extension.
#6
Like GLC said! Use the nastiest carb/choke cleaner spray you can find. Do not do it on a hot truck. 1/8 turn only then 1/2 fill the well with the carb cleaner and _walk away_. Leave this for a couple of hours. Slow steady torque then on your ratchet..
Did the last 2 5.3's this way and never broke a plug. Makes some horrible sounds coming out, but they came out. What you're doing is move the plug just off its seat, the carb cleaner is _the_ best product to desolve carbon. Over an hour or more, it slowly seeps down the threads and softens the carbon on the extension.
Did the last 2 5.3's this way and never broke a plug. Makes some horrible sounds coming out, but they came out. What you're doing is move the plug just off its seat, the carb cleaner is _the_ best product to desolve carbon. Over an hour or more, it slowly seeps down the threads and softens the carbon on the extension.
#7
He has a 2007. The head revision did not happen till a few months after the 2008 came out. The best way to tell if you have the revised heads, the COP boots will be brown instead of black.
__________________
Jim
Jim
Trending Topics
#8
I have always sprayed aerokroil in the plug wells about a week before I plan to change them. The day of changing them spray some more aerokroil in the plug wells and drive to my parents barn. Spray a little more aerokroil in the wells and slowly remove the plugs a little at a time with the engine warm (not hot). Plugs always come right out with no issues.
I'll note that I have also changed my plugs every 30K since I first changed them at 15K to avoid any issues
I'll note that I have also changed my plugs every 30K since I first changed them at 15K to avoid any issues
#9
The original TSB said aerokroil, that was superseded by one that says carb cleaner.
When removing, loosen them a bit at a time, cranking them back in a bit each time - "rock" them out.
The Techron in the gas makes a difference, that will help loosen the carbon. Even better is get a BG or Motorvac job prior to the change.
When removing, loosen them a bit at a time, cranking them back in a bit each time - "rock" them out.
The Techron in the gas makes a difference, that will help loosen the carbon. Even better is get a BG or Motorvac job prior to the change.
#10
#11
#13