Light Bar and Switch Panel Install
#1
Light Bar and Switch Panel Install
So I just finished installing a Randy Ellis Designs light bar and two pair of Hellas (500ff and 700ff driving lights) on my 2004 FX4 screw. I fabbed up a custom switch panel in the cubby beneath the pull out cupholder in the dash and installed some aircraft style safety toggles. Here are the build photos and some brief captions:
Here is the "Pre" photo. As you can see, the previous owner installed two PIAA fogs in the gap in the bumper.
I chose the Randy Ellis Designs light bar because I liked the 1-3/4" tubing and it also happened to mount in between the existing PIAA fogs without alteration.
Painted the hardware for the Hellas.
Lights mounted.
The wiring under the hood is pretty basic so I will skip that. I mounted the relays near the firewall on the passenger side in case you are wondering. So, now, here is the switch panel which I am quite proud of. I started by removing the empty (and useless might I add) cubby beneath the pull out cupholder. I slotted the top of it with a dremel to make room for a piece of 1/8" ABS textured plastic which would make the front of my switch panel. I also cut a large portion out of the top in order to install the switches from the back.
Next I cut out the ABS face plate using a paper template and slid it in through the top, trimming to fit.
Next, I drilled the holes for the switches, and test fitted the switches. When I was comfortable with the fit, I made some gussets and used a plastic epoxy to tie everything together.
Finally, I wired the relay leads to the switches and then from the switch to an empty port on the fuse box which only operates when the ignition is on (no dead battery if the lights are left on without the key in). I tied the existing PIAA fogs into the switch panel as well. So, three of the switches are used: PIAA 510 fogs, Hella 500ff's, and Hella 700ff's (one dummy switch for future use just because I felt like it). I am super happy with it, it looks pretty professional and is not too obnoxious like some of the bright LED switches out there.
You all know how hard it is to do lights justice in a picture but here it is anyway...
Here is the "Pre" photo. As you can see, the previous owner installed two PIAA fogs in the gap in the bumper.
I chose the Randy Ellis Designs light bar because I liked the 1-3/4" tubing and it also happened to mount in between the existing PIAA fogs without alteration.
Painted the hardware for the Hellas.
Lights mounted.
The wiring under the hood is pretty basic so I will skip that. I mounted the relays near the firewall on the passenger side in case you are wondering. So, now, here is the switch panel which I am quite proud of. I started by removing the empty (and useless might I add) cubby beneath the pull out cupholder. I slotted the top of it with a dremel to make room for a piece of 1/8" ABS textured plastic which would make the front of my switch panel. I also cut a large portion out of the top in order to install the switches from the back.
Next I cut out the ABS face plate using a paper template and slid it in through the top, trimming to fit.
Next, I drilled the holes for the switches, and test fitted the switches. When I was comfortable with the fit, I made some gussets and used a plastic epoxy to tie everything together.
Finally, I wired the relay leads to the switches and then from the switch to an empty port on the fuse box which only operates when the ignition is on (no dead battery if the lights are left on without the key in). I tied the existing PIAA fogs into the switch panel as well. So, three of the switches are used: PIAA 510 fogs, Hella 500ff's, and Hella 700ff's (one dummy switch for future use just because I felt like it). I am super happy with it, it looks pretty professional and is not too obnoxious like some of the bright LED switches out there.
You all know how hard it is to do lights justice in a picture but here it is anyway...
#2
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#6
Looks good. I had a bunch of lights like that on my ranger (actually 10 after market forward facing lights) and had a switch for them. I got really tired of reaching down to turn off the brights when i a car came around the corner. With my F150 I just wired them to my stock brights with a relay so they come on with the stock brights. So much simpler and I find that I use them more often because of the convenience factor. Your install looks very good though.
#7
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#10
Poolboy......the output of the 700ff's is about the same as the 500ff's but I really like the way the different sizes look on the bar.
Raptor....Don't have any great pics of the wiring right now, I will try to take some this weekend. It is all pretty tucked away but I'll see what I can do.
Watson....looks like we have similar tastes. Props on the light bar, I wish I had the tools to fab stuff like that on my own.
atr04screw.......haven't had a chance to get the truck out of the city yet and check out the light output. I'll take some pics when I do.
Dave0....the PIAA's on the bumper are mounted right to the bumper in that gap. Drilling was required. (previous owner did those...and did a good job)
Raptor....Don't have any great pics of the wiring right now, I will try to take some this weekend. It is all pretty tucked away but I'll see what I can do.
Watson....looks like we have similar tastes. Props on the light bar, I wish I had the tools to fab stuff like that on my own.
atr04screw.......haven't had a chance to get the truck out of the city yet and check out the light output. I'll take some pics when I do.
Dave0....the PIAA's on the bumper are mounted right to the bumper in that gap. Drilling was required. (previous owner did those...and did a good job)
#13
Got the 1/8" ABS textured plastic on Amazon for like $15. Safety Toggles at pep boys for $8 each. Switch panel took me about 8 hours all said and done, getting it to fit just perfect in that cubby takes time.
#14
Here are some wiring pics:
Here is where I tied into the fuse box...
Here is where the switch wires from the fuse box and firewall enter the dash to the switch panel. You can also see where they run behin the dash to get across to the fuse box on the passenger side.
The inline fuses for the switches tucked up under the dash but still accessible....
Here is where the wires come through the fire wall on the driver's side and then head up into existing wire tunnel just below the windshield...
Wires come out of the wire tunnel behind the battery. One of the relays is also tucked in behind the battery, too hidden for a good picture...
Other relay mounted to firewall ground...
Connecting the lights to the positive battery terminal. You can also see the PIAA fog relay tucked away to the left if you look close (previous owner install)...
Here is the total view, pretty tucked away for the most part. I'll probably get some more plastic tubing for the red power leads, I don't like the way they catch your eye...
Here is the wiring up front by the lights, the blue connectors are the grounds for each light, bolted to the frame. Then all the wires run off to the left toward the battery. I used rubber heat shrink wiring tubing up front for protection, although I didnt actually shrink it with a heat gun, didn't feel the need.
ENJOY! I AM!
Here is where I tied into the fuse box...
Here is where the switch wires from the fuse box and firewall enter the dash to the switch panel. You can also see where they run behin the dash to get across to the fuse box on the passenger side.
The inline fuses for the switches tucked up under the dash but still accessible....
Here is where the wires come through the fire wall on the driver's side and then head up into existing wire tunnel just below the windshield...
Wires come out of the wire tunnel behind the battery. One of the relays is also tucked in behind the battery, too hidden for a good picture...
Other relay mounted to firewall ground...
Connecting the lights to the positive battery terminal. You can also see the PIAA fog relay tucked away to the left if you look close (previous owner install)...
Here is the total view, pretty tucked away for the most part. I'll probably get some more plastic tubing for the red power leads, I don't like the way they catch your eye...
Here is the wiring up front by the lights, the blue connectors are the grounds for each light, bolted to the frame. Then all the wires run off to the left toward the battery. I used rubber heat shrink wiring tubing up front for protection, although I didnt actually shrink it with a heat gun, didn't feel the need.
ENJOY! I AM!
Last edited by O-FOUR FX4; 08-15-2011 at 10:06 PM.