Wiring the Relay:
Mount a 12V, 30A automotive Bosch-type relay to the inner fender near the under-hood fusebox.
Get power to the relay by running a 14 ga wire from the power input terminal on the end of the under-hood fusebox (remove the fusebox cover to expose the terminal), to pin 30 on the relay. Put a fuse holder w/ 15A fuse on this wire, as close to the fusebox terminal as practical.
Connect the wire you spliced to the white w/ black stripe wire at the switch to pin 86 on the relay.
Connect the wire you spliced to the yellow wire at the switch to pin 85 on the relay.
Because I also have Reverse and Grill lights, I added a small fuse box and a relay bank (I still need to add the relay for the grill lights). Power runs from the under-hood fuse box to the small fuse box, and from there to the relays.
Wiring the Lights:
Run a 14 Ga wire from pin 87 on the relay to the fog lights, and run a 14 Ga wire from the foglights to ground.
I made up a quick harness for powering/grounding the lights as follows:
I ran the power wire from the relay, following the factory light harness, to near the back of the left headlight. At this location, I spliced a wire (14 Ga) onto it to drop down to the left fog light. I then continued following the factory light harness across the upper radiator support to near the back of the right headlight, where I dropped it down to the right fog light.
A second wire (for ground) was run from the left fog light, following the power wire, over to the right fog light. Near the back of the right headlight, I spliced a wire onto the ground wire and ran it to a green ground screw located behind the right headlight (remove the right headlight to access this ground screw).
Splice on a H10 connector to the power and ground wires at each fog light.
Put all the wires in some sort of loom, and zip tie them securely to existing looms, etc.
I added wires for my grill lights into the same harness, as well as connecting the grill light grounds to the ground wire for the fog lights.
Fog Lights
Installing the Fog Lights:
Remove the 12 8mm bolts holding the valance to the bottom of the bumper and remove the valance. You'll also have to remove 3 Cristmas tree plugs holding the rubber air deflector to the valance in order to remove the valance.
Attach the U-nuts (3 for each light) to the holes on the bottom of the bumper. Bolt the fog light bracket (w/ fog light) to the bumper, snugging up the bolts but leaving them loose enough to adjust the bracket on the bumper.
On my 4X4, I used 6 of the bolts/U-nuts from my original valance which held on the lower part of the 4X4 two-part valance, to mount the fog lights. On a 4x2, steal 6 of the U-nuts from your original valance, and get 6 bolts from the hardware store (M6, I think) to mount the fog lights.
Mount your new fog valance, using the 12 bolts from your original valance. Don't forget the 3 Christmas tree plugs to mount the rubber air deflector to the valance.
Adjust the fog light bracket, so the fog light properly fills the hole in the valance. Tighten the 6 fog light bracket bolts.
Plug the fog light connectors into the back of the fog lights.
Fog Light Debris Shield:
I didn't like how exposed the back of the fog lights were to debris thrown up by the front tires, so I fabricated some shields to cover the back of the fog lights.
I used some cardboard to come up w/ the shape I wanted. I then cut the shape from a piece of aluminium highway sign panel, and bent them in a vise. The mounting holes in the fog light brackets were threaded to make installation/removal easy (the shields must be removed to change the fog light bulbs). A quick coat of flat black paint helps them hide in the wheel well.
Finished Product ...

Have a beer and enjoy your new factory-looking fog light installation (not at the same time, please

)