Overhead Console Temp Display Repair
#1
Overhead Console Temp Display Repair
Does your console not light up anymore?
Before you start the process, cycle the button a couple times to make sure its not just turned off.
Tools needed:
#2 Phillips
T10 bit/driver
Soldering gun & solder
If you are not experienced with a soldering gun use caution, or let someone tackle this that knows how to do the repair safely.
I am not responsible for any damages to you or your truck, this is merely a guideline to go by, individual results may vary
Start by removing the Phillips screw located above the mirror
In the rear door, there are plastic tab that have a metal clip. (one on each side) But all you need to do is just grab the console firmly and pull straight down on it. The console will pop off, make sure you dont pull too hard or you risk damaging the wires on the display.
The wiring connector is just clipped on the display, just slide it straight right to left
Disconnect the wiring connector, and take the console to your work bench (tailgate) and prepare to disassemble it.
Next you will see the 4 T10 screws.
Once removed, you will have the entire display unit
Take the green lens off, its just two clips to the housing on each side
The circuit board will just lift out of black housing. You can choose to disconnect the jumper harness from the board, or leave it on there and work around the harness and housing
Now that its fully disassembled we will now go over the repair process.
This resistor is the concern and will be the focus of my next series of pictures
From the side you can see that the resistor has popped up from the board slightly. I think this has to do with the board being suspended upside down in the truck and subjected to large temperature changes.
The repair process is actually quite simple, just a matter of heating up the solder, and nudging the resistor flat again, adding a pinch of new solder if needed.
Make sure its got full solder all the way across width of the resistor and you should be good to go.
Test the display on the truck before you completely put the display and console all back together
From there work back words through the steps and reassemble the display and console.
Put it back together after successful test run and enjoy!
If you see another resistor starting to lift, you may want to give it some loving with the soldering gun, but might not be needed.
Good luck.
Before you start the process, cycle the button a couple times to make sure its not just turned off.
Tools needed:
#2 Phillips
T10 bit/driver
Soldering gun & solder
If you are not experienced with a soldering gun use caution, or let someone tackle this that knows how to do the repair safely.
I am not responsible for any damages to you or your truck, this is merely a guideline to go by, individual results may vary
Start by removing the Phillips screw located above the mirror
In the rear door, there are plastic tab that have a metal clip. (one on each side) But all you need to do is just grab the console firmly and pull straight down on it. The console will pop off, make sure you dont pull too hard or you risk damaging the wires on the display.
The wiring connector is just clipped on the display, just slide it straight right to left
Disconnect the wiring connector, and take the console to your work bench (tailgate) and prepare to disassemble it.
Next you will see the 4 T10 screws.
Once removed, you will have the entire display unit
Take the green lens off, its just two clips to the housing on each side
The circuit board will just lift out of black housing. You can choose to disconnect the jumper harness from the board, or leave it on there and work around the harness and housing
Now that its fully disassembled we will now go over the repair process.
This resistor is the concern and will be the focus of my next series of pictures
From the side you can see that the resistor has popped up from the board slightly. I think this has to do with the board being suspended upside down in the truck and subjected to large temperature changes.
The repair process is actually quite simple, just a matter of heating up the solder, and nudging the resistor flat again, adding a pinch of new solder if needed.
Make sure its got full solder all the way across width of the resistor and you should be good to go.
Test the display on the truck before you completely put the display and console all back together
From there work back words through the steps and reassemble the display and console.
Put it back together after successful test run and enjoy!
If you see another resistor starting to lift, you may want to give it some loving with the soldering gun, but might not be needed.
Good luck.
Last edited by Patman; 04-11-2019 at 07:16 PM.
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#8
Patman----on my 03 Lariat my overhead console is different. I do NOT have a screw visible anywhere on the console and its about a third the size of yours. Mine houses the button for the sunroof (which works) and 2 Map lights (which work) and the Green Screen Compass/Temperature (which DOESN'T work). Do you think mine just pulls straight down? I've been meaning to do this since I bought the truck and never got around to it. I'm off this weekend and may try to tackle the job. Thanks---DirtySCREW
#9
I would think that the only way to change colors would be to change out the green lense. Looks as if it would be next to impossible. Guess you could put some colored cellophane tape on it and mix with the green. Blue would make it purple. LOL
__________________
Jim
Jim
#12
#13
Patman----on my 03 Lariat my overhead console is different. I do NOT have a screw visible anywhere on the console and its about a third the size of yours. Mine houses the button for the sunroof (which works) and 2 Map lights (which work) and the Green Screen Compass/Temperature (which DOESN'T work). Do you think mine just pulls straight down? I've been meaning to do this since I bought the truck and never got around to it. I'm off this weekend and may try to tackle the job. Thanks---DirtySCREW
#15
Did mine today-really easy. The only problem I had was I lost one of the 510 resistors. Went to Radio Shack but all they had was 480, they said I could order the 510 but I called an electronic/computer guy I know and he said that the 480 will work fine. Had to fork out a whopping 99 cents for five of them. Stuck it back together and it works GREAT!! The only thing I would suggest different is to use an iron and not a gun to do the fix.
THANKS PATMAN!
THANKS PATMAN!