This is the second time my rotors warped, truck has 47K on it. First time was at 30K and the dealer replaced rotors and calipers for free based on a tech bulletin from Ford for vehicles manufactured before 2005. My truck is an '04 SCrew Lariat 4X4.

Dealer said linings are warranted for 12,000 miles so I'm out of luck, this one will be on me. I'm think about going with PowerSlot Cryo rotors with Hawk performance pads. I have a buddy who put this setup on his '05 and he let me drive the vehicle the other day. What a difference in brake pedal feel and stopping power. In addition, there is no shimmy in the steering wheel when I applied his brakes, something I've lived with for a while and I'm just sick of it. In addition, it vibrates at higher speeds as well so I've decided I'm not going with the crap they put on at the factory any longer.

I'm getting new tires as well this week (Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos) so I should be in pretty good shape once I get the brakes done. The questions I have are:

1) I'm thinking about changing the rotors/pads myself but the only brake jobs I've done were before ABS. Anything I need to watch out for? Will I need a piston tool to reset the rear pistons or will the run-of-the-mill C-clamp work?

2) Anyone know if it's worth the extra $35.00 per rotor to go with Powerslot Cryo. I've heard nothing but good things and reviews on the internet are favorable. All I am really looking for is to have rotors last 50K-70K miles without warping.

3a) I've heard mixed messages about pads/rotor changes involving ABS. Some say to flush the system before reseting the pistons to avoid contaminating the lines/valves (back pressure) and then bleed once again when pads are on.

3b) Other say to open the bleeder and reset the piston to ensure all contaminents are not sent back into the lines. Once the pads are on bleed everyting once again to remove the air.

4) I plan to do a full flush anyway since it's never been done before and I moved to a cold climate recently (lived in Texas before now in Upstate NY). Should I go with Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid?

From the posts I've read already, unless I take it to a dealer or brake guy, old fluid in the ABS valves will mix with the new - I'm OK with that I'm just worried about any junk at the end of the line (piston) moving backward when I reset the pistons.

I'd appreciate some help/advise. Thanks. James

 

Definitely flush the system - it gets dirty pretty quick.

As for "warped" rotors, that a bunch of BS. Too many experienced racing mechanics have written articles on how rotors do not warp.

It is in the pads and how they transfer material onto the rotors during use.

This is a pretty good read:
Automotive Braking Systems and Brake Linings and Roughness and Vibration Service and Corrective Procedures

This is another:
Warped rotors and other braking myths

 

B-Man-

Thanks for the info. The dealer is the one who told me the rotors are warped and need to be replaced. When I asked them to machine them they told me they are too far out of tolerance. I took it to another Ford dealer and they gave me the same as the first although they did say they could machine them.

A third mechanic told me to get rid of OEM Ford components and go with a quality after market rotor and lining. I've never heard of the concept in the links provided, nor has a dealer ever quoted them to me.

Are ASE certified brake mechanics given these concepts during their training? I'm a little stumped since the advise I'm getting is the exact opposite of these articles and I've been getting that advise for close to 15 years from the mechanics that have worked on my brakes. I've been all over the U.S (Texas, New York, North Carolina, Ohio to name a few) and I've had brakes done in all of these states and never has any of those shops given me this perspective.

I'm a little confused now since all the stuff I've read has never mentioned rotors don't warp. Seems like I could have wasted a ton of money replacing "warped" rotors over the years when all it takes is having them machined with the correct lathe

 

The dealer telling you anything does not surprise me. It is quite logical to assume that any "pumping" you feel in the pedal would be from the rotors being warped or whatever.

If you have the time and tools, do the following:

Pull the rotors off the truck. Put a scotchbrite-style pad on an angle grinder or air grinder and run it over the entire surfaces of all the rotors. Be sure to cover every bit of surface and make the finish look dull.

Clean everything thoroughly, re-pack the wheel bearings and assemble to Ford spec.

Be certain that everything is re-assembled correctly and that there isn't excessive play or slop in your brake / axle / suspension hardware.

Buy a set of Hawk HPS pads and follow the break-in instructions exactly.

I bet your "warped" rotors magically become "unwarped".

(I did this exact procedure on a friend's "unfixable" Maxima. Over a year later and things are still working great.)

BTW - OEM parts are usually of very good quality and usually work great. Drilling / slotting rotors used with modern brake pads actually reduces your braking power. Modern pads don't out-gas, (drilling / slotting just reduces the contact surface area) so avoid it unless you just like the looks of it (like me, for example !!!)

Good luck !!

 

I've got the same problem and took my 2004 in under the TSB and had the rotors replaced. The TSB even mentioned warping. I'm at 71k now and they've been jiggling the steering wheel since about 50k and getting worse. I want to replace them or have them turned but I can get new rotors on eBay (rotorpros) for the cost to have them turned by the dealer or the local brake shop. Any thoughts?

 

When dealers or shops are referring to warping, they really mean excessive runout. Runout is generally caused by corrosion or rapid/emergency braking. Hook up a dial indicator or use a micrometer to measure your runout.

 

Stay away from cheap foreign made rotors. They will warp in no time. Cheap rotors are made from lower grade steel, and will not handle the cycling of temp very good. Just speaking from experience......

 

I went with Powerslot Cryo rotors. I put on some Carquest blue pads on them. Sooo much better than OEM. You can actually get a pretty good deal on the Cryo's from AutoAnything.com if you find some online coupons. They are a quality rotor and not prone to warping like the cheap OEM rotors. I've been more than happy with my choice. hardly any dust and great stopping power!

 

Funny, I got my rotors from rotorpros, and I have as many miles on them now as I did when my stock rotors became warped, my indicator showed .100 runout, IMO wasn't worth my time to try to save them, money is time for me, replacing them took about 1 hour. I went with slotted/drilled rotors due to a heavy vehicle my F150 weighs a little over 5700lbs empty or 7000lbs loaded. Still running good after 50,000 miles.

I barked at stock FORD replacement brake rotors, the dealership wanted $429 for just one rotor/hub assembly now motorcraft parts aint that good to warrant paying $300 more than an quality after-market part. Besides if these rotors last for another 40,000 miles they will have lasted longer than the stock parts did.

I Bought some pads to go with rotorpros rotors but I think they are just a little too hard-that or my other brake system parts are worn out, we'll see in a week when stuff gets replaced.

Also keeping in mind my truck is a 1998 typically we have more issues with parts failure than the newer trucks do.

 

Either way, make sure you bed your pads per the manufacturer's advice. Hawk's website has their procedure, and The Tire Rack's website has the procedure for a variety of brands that they sell... different pad MFR's cite slightly different procedures.

 

like said before, warped rotors is the common name, but it is usually just brake pad buildup that is not uniform on the rotor. This uneven surface causes the pulsating feeling of a "warped" rotor.

The powerslots have been on backorder for a few weeks, so unless the place you order from has some in stock, it may take a while to get them.

I just put a set of stoptech slotted rotors on my truck and love the extra stopping. A friend of mine drove my truck and trailer around last night (16 foot flatbed, had 15-20 pieces of firewood and a toolbox, otherwise empty) and he said that my truck stopped better than his... unloaded.

I have been hearing great things from customers who have done the stage two kit we have here.

http://www.modbargains.com/product.a...Tech_Stage2_MW


You can also read about bedding in the brakes in one of the tabs in that listing. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Alon