Brake Bleeding?

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Old 11-04-2007, 10:26 AM
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Brake Bleeding?

Hey All,

I was just looking at the 1 man brake bleeding pump tool. I was just wondering if anyone out there has ever used them and could tell me if it is worth the money or not?

I will be replacing the rear wheel cylinders before too long and I will not have a helper. Any advise would be welcome. Thank you guys. YOUR AWESOME!
 
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Old 11-04-2007, 11:23 AM
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I have one and it worked great and was simple to use.

Start at the passenger side rear, then drivers side rear, passenger side front and last drivers side front.
 
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Old 11-06-2007, 07:32 AM
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Just like he said. I have it and used it this year too. Love it and for like 7bux, well worth it.
 
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Old 11-24-2007, 10:13 AM
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UPDATE!

I got my bleeding pump and have bled the back brakes on my truck. I am a bit bumfuzzled, because, I have been forever on the right rear. I have ran 20 cups of fluid out and still am getting bubbles. Driver side has no bubbles. Went through 3 cups and none at all. I don't understand it. Could I have actually gotten that much air in the line from changing the wheel cylinder? I did the same replacement on the driver side. It is getting better the more I bleed it, but, I was just wondering if anyone has had the same troubles with this?

Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 11-24-2007, 11:03 AM
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You must stop once in a while to make sure you keep the master cylinder full of fluid or you will draw air into the line.
 
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Old 11-24-2007, 11:10 AM
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Well, yea, I guess I should have put in there that I did that too. LOL I never let it go below half full. I would draw a cup out, and then, fill it back up.

The upside to it, is, I have very clean new fluids coming out the bleeder. LOL

I might just need to keep at it some more. This is my first time using a bleeder pump.

Thanks!
 
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Old 11-24-2007, 11:38 AM
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I use the cheap one-man setup - Lisle is the maker. Works great.

One note on the air bubbles - just went through this myself this past week. If there is not a good seal on/around the wheel cylinder port, and the bleeder is below the elevation of the wheel cylinder, then by the time one jumps out of the cab to get back around to look, air will have leaked in. I changed to a different one of the three rubber elbows provided, made sure there was a tight seal, and was good-to-go.

The right rear was the most troublesome to get all the air out - that is, it took the longest. Once it was good, the other three went pretty quickly. I had 3 quarts of fluid on hand, went through most of 2 to get both new rear cylinders bled, the fluid running clean out all four brakes, and the master cylinder topped back off.
 

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Old 11-24-2007, 12:05 PM
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Good to know that I am not going crazy then. I have went through 1 1/2 quarts so far. I was worried about the seal the hose was getting also. BUT, I didn't get any bubbles out of the driver side. The driver side fills the cup up in about 5 seconds with no bubbles. So, I can't really blame it on the seal it had. Did you use any teflon thread seal tape on your bleeders? The manual I got with my pump advised that I do that. Mine is a MUGHTY VAC.

I will just go buy me some more fluid and keep at it. LOL It has good stopping power, I, just like a good hard pedal, but, don't we all. LOL

I didn't bleed the front because I didnt think air would have gotten that far from just the wheel cylinders off. Do you think I should do the front anyways?

Thanks!!!
 
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:35 PM
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Sounds like your bleeder unit is a little more advanced than mine, just by the name :-)
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-1...der-19200.aspx

No, did not put the tape on the wheel cylinder bleeders - although that is a good idea I'll file for future reference - to enable easier bleeds in the future, as well as to better seal any potential air leaks while bleeding. The reason for changing one of the cylinders was that the bleeder port snapped off when I tried to loosen it - D'Oh! That's a sidebar to Murphy's Law - "If it's stuck, force it. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways".

I only back the bleeder port off enough to allow a restricted flow - maybe 1/4-1/2 turn. Trying to prevent any excessive agitation where air might get temporarily entrapped in the fluid. Also, worked the brake pedal very slowly for the same reason.

I bled the fronts for two reasons - changed the master cylinder out during this exercise, and also to change the brake fluid as a personal maintenance practice - it had been several years since last done. If you didn't allow the master cylinder to go low, I suspect the fronts would be fine.

The master cylinder is split into two systems with each controlling two brakes - I'm hoping I remember it right that it's the fronts on one system and the backs on the other.
 
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:55 PM
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COOL.

Here is the setup I am using. It has all sorts of stuff for checking vacuum leaks and all kinds of goodies.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mit7000.html

I will just have to hit it hard in the morning and just get-er-done. I will be sure to post and let you know how it worked out. Who knows, I might as well do the front and get the old fluids out of there too. It can't hurt.

I will be in touch tomorrow!
 
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Old 11-24-2007, 01:24 PM
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those work good. just make sure that master doesnt run dry.
 
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Old 11-25-2007, 10:20 AM
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Woke up with snow on the ground here in Germany and the high today is 30 with a wind chill of 20. BURR! So, I said the heck with it. The shop on base will be open tomorrow, so, I will go there and finish the job. 5$ an hour isn't bad to rent a bay with a lift, plus, any tool you will ever need to do any job. OH, did I mention HEAT! LMAO!

Untill tomorrow!
 
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Old 12-16-2007, 08:52 AM
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UPDATE:

Sorry it has took me so long.

The right rear is a PITA to bleed. LMAO The left rear is not bad to bleed but the darn bleeder is a PITA.

I had to get a bleeder that draws from an air compressor to get all of the air out. (Was getting carpel tundel from pumping the han jobber deal)

I have a good pedal now.

I was wondering, what would be the symptoms of the check valve in the booster going bad? I just think it could be better. IMO
 
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Old 12-16-2007, 10:06 AM
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I've got the same pump you have and I also have the MAC Vacula aircompressor driven bleeder and still prefer the old fashion method of 2 people with 3 pumps on the pedal and crack the bleeder screw.
 

Last edited by torkum; 12-16-2007 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 12-16-2007, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by torkum
I've got the same pump you have and I also have the MAC Vacula aircompressor driven bleeder and still prefer the old fashion method of 2 people with 3 pumps on the pedal and crack the bleeder screw.

Yea, I will have to say I agree. This is the first time I have used the pumps. But, whaddya do, I have no help. It is all I can do for now.

Don't get me wrong. I have decent pedal now, but, I am not impressed with the hand vac's.
 



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